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EGYPT 

AND HOW TO SEE IT 

1907-1908 




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EGYPT 



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AND HOW TO SEE IT 

ILLUSTRATED BY A. 0. LAMPLOUGH 





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NEW YOKK 
DOUBLED AY, PAGE & CO. 

L(3NI)0N: BALLANTYNE c^^ CO. LTD. 



Thiii work han been written and published 
under the supervision of the Ef/t/ptian 
State Raibcaijs, Cairo. A French edition 
is published bji Hachetteet Cie., Paris, and 
a German edition bi/ Adolf Sponholtz, 
Hannover and Leip-Jy 



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('oj)ifri(/ht 

All rif/hfs reserved 



PREFACE 

The present book is not designed to supplant the many 
existing guide-books on Egypt, nor — though every effort has 
been made to ensure accuracy — does it purport to serve as an 
infallible book of reference to archaeologists. Its object is, 
rather, to aid the visitors to this country by indicating that 
which is most worth seeing, where they should go, and how 
they may economise time, money, and fatigue to the greatest 
advantage. 

Cairo and Alexandria, Upper Egypt, the Fayoum, and 
Lower Egypt are dealt with chapter by chapter, and their 
interests, characteristics, and chief features presented. 

To the text are added appendices giving detailed and 
practical information of every kind ; these have been made 
as complete as possible. Time-tables and similar particulars, 
which vary from time to time, are arranged so as to apply 
to the coming winter season, i.e., November 1907 to April 
1908. In subsequent annual editions, not only will the text 
be revised, but the appendices will be brought up to date, 
so as to be correct for the following season. 

This guide-book is also published in French and German 
editions. 

Cairo, 

October 1, 1907. 



CONTENTS 



PACE 



Chapter I. General Information 

Before starting for Egypt — Arrival at Port Said and 
Alexandria — Outline tours . . . . . 11 

Chapter II. Cairo 

Hotels — Historical — Ghizeh and Ghezireh — Churches 
— Amusements — The Bazaars — Mosques — The Mu- 
seum — Khedivial Library — Arab Museum — Old 
Coptic Churches — Helouan — Marg — Heliopolis Oasis 
— The Pyramids and Sphinx of Ghizeh — The Tombs 
and Pyramids of Sakkara — The Barrage ... 22 

Chapter III. The Fayoum 

Medinet-el-Fayoum — The Labyrinth and Lahoun — 
Sennoures — ^Lake Karoun ..... 62 

Chapter IV. Upper Egypt 

Cairo to Luxor by rail — Beni Hassan — Tel-el-Amarna 
— Assiout — Sohag — Abydos — Dendera — Luxor — 
Luxor to Assouan — Esneh — Edfou — Kom Ombo 
Assouan ........ 69 

Chapter V. The Sudan . . . . . .112 

Chapter VI. The Delta 

Belbeis — Salhieh — Tantah — Mansourah — Damietta — 

Lake Menzaleh 119 

Chapter VII. Alexandria 

Hotels — Historical — Pompey's Pillar and the Cata- 
combs — Mariout — Aboukir — Rosetta . . .127 

Chapter VIII. The Suez Canal, &c. 

Cairo to Ismailia — Ismailia — Suez — The Canal — The 
Sinai Peninsula — The Oases — The Wadv Natroun . 137 



CONTENTS 



PA(JE 

Appendix I. Arabic-English Vocabulary . . 145 

Appendix II. Hotels, Churches, Banks, Consuls . 155 

Appendix III. Miscellaneous Information 

Weights and Measures — Postal — Telegraphic — Tele- 
phones — Importation of firearms — Antiquities — 
Customs — Information for motorists — Bank Holi- 
days — Full moons — Distances . . . .166 

Appen^dix IV. Time-tables, Fares, &c. 

Railway Time-tables — Fares — Regulations — Cab 
fares, &c. — Steamship sailings and fares . . .173 

Index ......... 205 



1 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



PAGE*' 



The Railway Station, Cairo Frontispiece 

In the Desert, Tel-el -Kebir 1 1 

On the Banks of the Sweetwater Canal ] 5 

Near Ramleh 17 

On the Mahmoudieh Canal, Alexandria 20 

Bulac and Citadel from Ghezireh 23 

On the edge of the Palm -grove, Marg 47 

The Pyramids of Giz3h, from the Desert : Early Morning 51 

On the Nile off Sakkara 55 

The Barrage 59 

On the Bahr-el-Yussuf Cana 63 

At Abchaway 67 

On the Lake Karoun 68 

Evening on the Nile 60 

At Abou-Kerkas 75 

Street Scene at Assiout 77 

On the Canal, Beni-Korra 78 

The Nile at Nag-Hamadi 81 

Hills at Dabbeh 83 

At Assirat 84 

Ruins at Thebes 85 

The Archway of Euergetes, Karnak 89 

Sunset on the Nile, Luxor 95 

Arab village near Esneh 99 

At Kattara 101 

View from the Cataract Hotel, Assouan 103 

Temple of Kom Ombo 104 

At Assouan, looking south 105 

Timber Loading at Shellal 107 

9 B 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Rocks at Shellal 

Phihe 

A Tomb in the Desert 

A Sakkieh 

At Facous 

At Damietta 

A Street Scene. Dainietta 

Sunset on the Banks of Lake ^lenzaleh 

A Breezy Day at Aboukir 

Girl with Water-jug 

In the Oasis of Siwa 

At Ismailia 



PAGE 

108 
109 
112 
119 
122 
123 
125 
120 
127 
129 
137 
138 



THE SKETCHES HAVE BEEN 
REPRODUCED AND PRINTED 
IN COLOUR AT THE BAL- 
LANTYNE PRESS, LONDON 



10 





In the desert, Tel-el-Kebir 

CHAPTER I 

GENERAL INFORMATION 

The best months for Egypt are from October to May. The 
weather is delightful all through, save for a very few days. 
Iq the worst years , indeed, one may possibly count ten days 
that are not quite perfect, but a few showers, one or two 
days of rain, and perhaps one day of rather hot wind and 
dust in April are all one need expect. The rest is sunshine 
and warmth such as even the Riviera cannot afford. 

Of routes there is a very wide choice : one can go by long 
sea, which takes from twelv3 to fifteen days and is certainly 
cheapest, or one may go from Marseilles, Genoa, Naples, 
Venice, Trieste, Brindisi, or Constantinople. The shortest 
route is, of course, via Brindisi, and takes four and a half 
days. Full particulars ar3 given on page 202. 

It is as well to secure a passage early, as, especially in the 
late autumn, the boats may be crowded One may note here 
that it is almost always possible to secure a place in the 
P. & 0. Brindisi Mail Express, even at the last moment. 

As to clothes and general equipment, no very special 
measures need be taken. Ordinary English summer clothing 

11 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

is quite adequate, though it is best to take a few thick things 
as well. Moreover, Cairo is quite as fashionable, from the 
point of view of dress, as a European capital, and affords 
plentv of occasions for wearing smart clothes. 

Cairo has plenty of shops, and one can procure almost any- 
thing necessary. The prices are in some cases a little higher 
than in Europe. Special outfits, tropical helmets, smoked 
glasses, green veils, &c., are really never wanted in winter, 
except once in a way for an excursion in the desert on a very 
hot day. Sometimes at Luxor or Assouan, or for Sakkara, one 
requires a little protection against glare and sun, even in the 
cold weather, but never in Cairo, Alexandria, or in most parts 
of Egypt for that matter. For such requirements Cairo 
affords quite as good, if not better, choice than can be found 
in London. 

A luncheon- and tea -basket is useful, and should certainly 
be brought. 

Amateur photographers can procure films at any of the 
chief tourist resorts at reasonable prices (Cairo, of course, 
has several photographers' shops), and they can have their 
photographs developed, or can do this themselves in the 
dark-rooms provided in most of the hotels. 

Those who wish to do any shooting had better not bring 
cartridges, as most steamship companies put difficulties in 
the way of the transport of small quantities of ammunition. 
Cartridges can be obtained in Alexandria and Cairo. For 
shooting licences and other particulars see page 17 L 

Visitors can, if they wish, hire very good private carriages 
for the whole or part of their stay, and can almost always 
find a coachman who knows some English. 

Motorists who bring their cars will find good roads in and 
about Cairo and Alexandria, but that will be about their 
limit. The country roads are primitive, and in most cases 
quite impossible for motoring. There are several good 
garages in Alexandria and Cairo. For particulars as to 
licence and other information see page 170. 

From January to the middle of March the hotels are apt 
to be full, and one should engage rooms beforehand by letter, 
or there may be trouble on arrival. Full information as to 
hotels, &c., is given on page 155 et seq., and references will be 
found in the various articles on Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor, 
Assouan, &c. &c. 

Those who wish to explore the country thoroughly may 

12 



GENERAL INFORMATION 

be recommended to procure either Baedeker's " Egypt " 
(price 155.) or Cook's "Egypt and the Soudan" (Professor 
Walhs Budge, price lOs.). These works enter minutely into 
every possible detail. 

Egyptian Money. — The Egyptian pound consists of 100 
piastres. A piastre (pt.) is worth about 2Jc^., 25 centimes, 
or 5 cents. 

English and French gold, particularly the former, are in 
circulation everywhere. An English sovereign is worth 
97J pt. ; a French napoleon is worth 77 pt. 

RAILWAY ARRANGEMENTS 

Many people are surprised when they come to Egypt to 
find a railway system which can compare in most particulars 
with those of Europe and America. There are some 1500 
miles of railway, with about 270 stations, under State manage- 
ment, besides a large number of light railways. 

The most important trains are composed of large double- 
bogie corridor carriages of the latest design, lighted by elec- 
tricity or gas. On all the principal expresses dining- or 
luncheon-cars are provided, and for the longer journeys 
sleeping-cars ; these are of the well-known type used all 
over Europe, and are run under an arrangement with the 
Wasjon-Lits Company. 

There are three classes of carriages ; the thirds, however, 
are somewhat different from those in England, and it is very 
unusual to see a European travelling third class. Fares are, 
on the whole, considerably cheaper than those of English 
railways. A short journey costs more in proportion than a 
long one. The second-class fare is half the first-class, and 
the third half the second. 

Return tickets are not issued at present, except on one or 
two of the suburban lines. No luggage is carried free, except 
that which is taken by the passenger into the carriage. 
Special trains, saloons, and the conveyance of carriages or 
motor-cars can be arranged for at short notice ; particulars 
on these points are given on page 197. 

ARRIVAL IN EGYPT 

Port Said. — We are told that we are within ten minutes 
of Port Said ; yet we see nothing but water — then, all at 

13 



EGYPT. AND HOW TO SER IT 

once, a collection of houses, and a low-lying line of sand, 
and the ship is in the channel steaming between buoys 
De Lesseps' statue dominates the harbour ; one outstretched 
finger points to his work, the great waterway that joins 
East to West. 

Boats crowd round, full of shouting Arabs, and the moment 
the ship stops there ensues a rush of frenzied hawkers and 
minstrels. They sell cigarettes — beware of these — lace, post- 
cards of more or less dubious interest, Renter's telegrams, 
newspapers, anything that may extort piastres. Cook's is a fair 
remedy if one has much baggage, though a single man of parts 
and experience may well fight for his own hand, take one of 
the native boats, and arrive even before Cook's men. The 
Customs are not exacting as to personal effects ; guns, 
bicycles, and a few other accessories — one may call them 
impersonal or commercial — are liable to a duty of 8 per cent, 
on their value. 

Port Said is hardly a place at which to stay. The town is 
not interesting, and it has few amusements. 

One unique phenomenon there is at Port Said, the coaling 
by night — a hurricane of flying natives, lit up by braziers 
that flare through the uncanny mist of coal-dust. They fling 
their boards against the ship, rush up with full baskets, 
hurl the coal into the bunkers, and rush down again. It is a 
very inferno of haste and efficiency. 

The hotels here are fair as to accommodation. The 
Savoy, on the sea-front, and the Eastern Exchange, in 
the centre of the town, are the two best. 

If possible, it will be well to take the train at once. There 
are three trains a day, at 8.10 a.m., 12.30 p.m., and 6.45 p.m. 
The two latter have dining-cars, and the journey takes from 
four and a half to five hours. Port Said is 237 kilometres 
(about 150 miles) from Cairo. The fares are : First class, 
95 pt. ; second class, 47^ pt. In the restaurant -car 25 pt. 
is charged for dinner and 20 pt. for lunch. The full time- 
table is given on page 175. 

Leaving Port Said, the line runs parallel to the Suez Canal 
and tlie " Sweetwater " Canal, Port Said's only source of 
fr(^sh water. On the right is at first the shallow Lake 
Menzaleh, where one sees, in the winter time, quantities 
of water-fowl, and now and again pelicans and flamingoes 
of vivid plumage — rose, scarlet, and flame-coloured. Kantarah, 
about twenty- five miles from Port Said, is one of the points 

14 



GENERAL INFORMATION 

in the ancient caravan route between Egypt and Syria. It 
is still used by Bedouins. Pharaohs, Persians, Arabs, even 
the French under Napoleon, have used that track. It is 
curious to see ships gliding slowly and silently past, as it 




On the banks of the Sweetwater Canal 



were, over the sand. One hardly realises that they are on a 
canal. 

From Ismailia to Abou-Hammad is all sand. Tel-el-Kebir 
is in this stretch, and one can still see traces of the British 
trenches on the right-hand side of the line. 

After Zagazig — a large railway and commercial centre — 
the country is really no more than a vast market garden ; 
almost every yard is under cultivation. Benha, the junction 
for Alexandria, is the only town of importance after Zagazig ; 
and half an hour after Benha the train enters the suburb of 
Choubra, and at last steams under the great single arch of 
Cairo station. 

Alexandria. — The arrival at Alexandria is not very 
impressive ; there is a long, low breakwater, a dusty grey 
line of shore with dusty grey buildings. Inside the break- 

15 



ec;ypt, and how to see it 

water is a forest of masts — " ferry-boats," as the Anglo- 
Egyptian styles all passenger ships to and from Europe — 
trading steamers of many lines, colliers near the great active 
coal -hoists, and little sailing- boats cruising up and down the 
harbour. 

Certain steamship lines have made arrangements with the 
Railway Administration whereby in winter special trains 
meet, their boats on the quay, and carry passengers direct to 
Cairo, Passengers by other lines have to fend for them- 
selves. Information on this point can best be obtained from 
the steamship companies themselves. The Custom House 
is on the quays, and there are always plenty of cabs. The 
drive to the station takes about half an hour, first through 
narrow native streets, then into the wide Place Mohammed Aly 
and up Rue Cherif Pacha — a fine modern street — thence past 
the big police station into the railway terminus. The cab 
fare is 5 pt. For those who wish to pass a few hours, or even 
a night, in Alexandria there are the Khedivial, Windsor, and 
Savoy Hotels, all three of which are good. One can go to 
see Pompey's Pillar, or else drive out to Ramleh in the after- 
noon. A fuller description of Alexandria is given in Chapter 
VII. 

The journey to Cairo, 130 miles, by express, takes from 
three to three and a half hours, according to the class of train. 
The principal trains are : 

A.M. A.M. NOON. P.M. P.M. P.M. P.M. 

Alexandria, dep. 7. 9. 12.0 3.40 4.25 6. 11.30 
Cairo, arr. 10.25 12.20 3.5 7.10 7.25 9.20 6. a.m. 

The 12.0 train has a luncheon-car and the 6.0 p.m. a 
dining-car. For detailed time-table see page 174. The fare, 
first class, is 87J pt. ; second class, 43J pt. Sleeping-car 
supplement on the 11.30 p.m. train, 30 pt. 

The journey from Alexandria to Cairo does not possess 
any great features of interest ; the country, once one has 
left the rather desolate Lake Mariout, is characteristic of 
the Delta — canals, crops, and camels. Damanhour, stand- 
ing on a hill, or rather mound — picturesque at a distance — 
Kafr Zayat, a cotton centre, Tantah, the third largest town 
in P]gypt, but not otherwise of much interest, and Benha, 
are the only four places worth mentioning on the route. 

Tantah, where all the trains stop, has one merit on a warm 
day, in that boys rush up and down the platform and offer 

16 




1 
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K G Y P T, A N 1) H () W TO SEE I T 

fruit and lemonade, or whisky and soda, and sucnnKe drinks, 
often welcome half-way through the journey. 

OUTLINE TOURS 

Visitors who have only a short time at their disposal may 
find assistance as to the best way of using it in the three 
outline tours here gi\en. These tours are not meant to be 
taken as hard-and-fast schemes, but may be altered and 
modified to any extent to suit individual requirements. 

The Egyptian State Railways do not bind themselves in 
any way as regards the railway connections shown below. 

(1) A Three Weeks' Tour in Egypt 

Day. 
J. Arrival at Alexandria, or Port Said. 
2. (If Alexandria.) Morning: See Pompey's Pillar and 
the Catacombs. Afternoon : Expedition to Aboukir. 
3 Travel up to Cairo. 

4. Mav be devoted to exploring Cairo — Museum, Mosques, 

&c. 

5. Visit to Helouan or the Ostrich Farm at Matarieh. 

6. In the afternoon visit the Sphinx and Pyramids of Gizeh. 

7. Expedition to Sakkara (train from Cairo to Bedrechein, 

9.30 a.m.). 

8. Spend the morning in Cairo. Visit the barrage in the 

afternoon. 

9. Favoum and Lake Moeris. Start at 8.30 a.m. from Cairo ; 

change at Wasta; arrive Medinet-el-Fayoum at 11.16. 
After exploring the town proceed to Abchawav bv 
train at 8.39 p.m., and sleep at the Lake Moeris Hotel. 

10. Spend the morning on the lake and return by the train 

at 4.4 P.M. to Medinet-el-Fayoum. 

11. Fayoum to Assiout. Leave Medinet-el-Fayoum at 8.18 

A.M., catching the express at Wasta at 9.59 a.m., and 
arrive at Assiout at 3.45 p.m. If desired, the rock 
tombs of Beni Hassan can be seen on the wav. In 
this case leave the express at Abou Kerkas at 1.24 p.m., 
and proceed from Abou Kerkas at 5T5 p.m., reaching 
Assiout at 8.0 p.m. 

12. Expedition to Tel-el- Amarna (lunch should be taken 

from the hotel). Leave Assiout by the train at 8.59 
A.M. ; arrive Dair-Moos (for Tel-el- Amarna) at 10.45 a.m. 

18 



GEN KRAI. INFORMATION 

Leave Dair-Moes at 4.15 p.m. ; arrive Assiout 5.59 

P.M. 

13. Assiout to Luxor, stopping on the way to see either (a) 

the temples of Abydos or {b) the temple of Dendera. 
(Provisions must be taken.) For (a) leave Assiout at 
8.56 A.M., arriving at Baliana at 12.37 p.m. Leave 
Balianaat 7.14 p.m., arriving at Luxor at 10.40 p.m. For 
(b) leave Assiout at 5.20 a.m., arriving at Keneh at 11.58 
A.M. Leave Keneh at 6.50 p.m.: arrive Luxor at 8.15 p.m. 

14. 1 Luxor. By following the directions ^iven under " Dis- 

15. y tribution of Time " on page 97 the principal monuments 

16. -^ of ancient Thebes can be examined. 

17. Luxor to Assouan. The temple of Esneh can be taken 

on the way. In this case ]ea\e Luxor at 6.20 a.m., 
arriving at Esneh at 8.45 a.m. Leave Esneh by the 
express (dining-car attached) at 12.16 p.m., and arrive 
at Assouan at 5.0 p.m. If it is desired to go straight 
to Assouan, leave Luxor at 10.30 a.m. by the express, 
arriving at Assouan at the same time. 

18. Assouan — the bazaars, Bishareen camp, and ancient 

quarries. 

19. Assouan — Philse and the Dam. Leave Assouan at 9.0 

a.m. or 10.45 A.M. for Shellal (half -hour by train). The 
return from Shellal can be made by train at 2.50 or 
6.0 P.M. A pleasant alternative is to take a boat at 
the Dam and return bv river. 

20. Assouan to Luxor and Cairo. If direct, leave Assouan 

at 10.15 A.M ; arrive at Luxor at 4.45 p.m. By leaving 
Assouan at 5.50 A.M. it is possible to see the temple of 
Fdfou on the wav. The train arrives at Edfou at 
10.28 A.M. Leave Edfou by the express (dining-car) at 
1.38 P.M., arriving at Luxor at 4.45 p.m. Leave Luxor 
by the tram de luxe at 6.30 p.m., or by the night 
mail at 5.30 p.m. 

21. Arrive in Cairo at 8.0 a.m., or 7.5 a.m. respectively, and 

proceed to Alexandria or Port Said. 

(2) Fifteen Days' Tour in Egypt 

1. Arrival at Alexandria or Port Said. (If Port Said, it 

will be best to leave the same night and spend an 
extra dav iu Cairo.) 

2. Travel to Cairo. 

19 




13 

a 



si 



73 

C 

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p 
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GENERAL INFORMATION 



. iSee the sights of Cairo. 

5. Fayoum. Leave Cairo 8.30 a.m. ; arrive Medinet-el- 

Fayoum at 11.16 a.m. 

6. Fayoum to Assiout. \ Details are given in 

7. Expedition to Tel-el-Amarna. V the " Three Weeks' 

8. Assiout to Luxor. J Tour." 

j^' I At Luxor. (See "Distribution of Time/ page 97.) 

11. Luxor to Assouan. (See " Three Weeks' Tour.") 

12 ^ 

,«* yAt Assouan. 

14. Assouan to Luxor and Cairo. (See " Three Weeks' 

Tour.") 

15. Arrive in Cairo 8.0 a.m. Proceed to Alexandria or Port 

Said. 

(3) Another Arrangement for Fifteen Days 
1. Arrival at Alexandria or Port Said, and proceed to Cairo. 

I] 

/ ,-Can be spent in Cairo. 

5. J 

6. Fayoum. Leave Cairo for Medinet-el-Fayoum at 8.30 

A.M., arriving at 11.16 a.m. Leave Fayoum at 5.34 
P.M. ; arrive Wasta at 6.30 p.m., and catch the traui 
de luxe for Luxor at 8.0 p.m. 

7. Arrive at Luxor at 8.35 a.m. 

8 ^ 

q' I Can be spent at Luxor. (See " Distribution of Time," 

lo; J P^g^ ^^-) 

11. Luxor to Assouan. (See "Three Weeks' Tour.") 

12 ^ 

^' vAt Assouan. 

14. Assouan to Luxor and Cairo, (^ee " Three Weeks' 

Tour.") 
15 Arrival in Cairo 8.0 a.m. Proceed to Alexandria or Port 

Said. 



21 



CHAPTER II 

CAIRO 

As the train comes to a standstill in Cairo station the visitor 
is besieged by a crowd of hotel porters, but this need cause 
no annoyance. If rooms have been engaged previously, all 
that is necessary is to pick out the representative of the 
particular hotel chosen. He will take charge of the luggage 
and lead the way to the hotel omnibus outside. 

First to be considered are the hotels. Driving from the 
station, one reaches " Shepheard's " in a few minutes ; then 
just beyond it is the Continental. Turn to the right and 
you pass the Angleterre, then, going towards Kasr-el-Nil, 
the National and the Savoy. On the river-bank, just to 
the south of the bridge, is the new Semiramis, in Kasr-el- 
Doubara, a great quarter for the Avealthy residents. If 
you go over the bridge, and to the right hand, you reach 
Ghezireh Palace and its garden. Here also are the 
fashionable villas. 

There are several other hotels, more economical, but quite 
comfortable : the Metropole, Eden Palace, New Khedivial, 
and Bristol. There are, too, plenty of pensions : the 
Imperial, Carlton House, Villa Victoria, Rossmore House, 
Pension Sima — to mention a few only. It is also possible 
to hire a furnished flat for the winter ; so there is no lack of 
choice where to stay. 

The Savoy is perhaps the premier hotel, situated at 
the corner of Kasr-el-Nil and Suliman Pasha streets, a very 
pleasant part of the town. It is a favourite rendez-vous of 
Cairo rank and fashion. The restaurant, for which the hotel 
is noted, is always crowded with smart diners -out during the 
winter. The Savoy Saturday night dances are among the 
most popular events of the Cairo season. 

"Shepheard's" is famous all o/er the world, and hardly 
needs recommendation ; it always maintains its well-deserved 
popularitv. The hotel is situated not far from the station, 
in the principal street of the town. In front there is a fine 

•^9 




o 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

terrace, on which a band usually plays in the afternoon during 
tea. There is a pretty garden at the back, with shady trees 
and flowers, and also a tennis-court. The interior is deco- 
rated in Arab and Egyptian style ; the restaurant and lounge 
in particular are remarkable. 

The Continental is a large new hotel facing the Opera 
Square and the Esbekieh Gardens, and offers many attrac- 
tions to its patrons. The terrace has a most animated 
appearance. This hotel has the most central position of 
any, and is conveniently near the best shops and the bazaars ; 
in fact, it is a good starting-point for all the sights of 
Cairo. 

A smaller and quieter hotel, the Angleterre, in Sharia- 
el-Magraby — is greatly appreciated by those who desire a 
quieter life than is possible in the larger establishments ; 
it is, however, first class, and quite as well managed as any 
of the big hotels. 

The new Hotel Semiramis, only opened last season, is one 
of the best situated in the town, being alongside the Nile, 
close to the Kasr-el-Nil bridge, and in the fashionable Kasr- 
el-Doubara quarter. From its terrace visitors may enjoy 
one of the most extensive and picturesque views of Cairo. 
The interior arrangements of the hotel are, needless to say, 
quite up to date and most comfortable from every point of 
view. 

The Ghezireh Palace Hotel is on the island of Ghezireh 
— a fashionable suburb. The building was once a palace of 
the Khedive Ismail, and the decorations are in the most 
gorgeous and lavish style. As a hotel it ranks with the best ; 
it is about two miles out of Cairo, and the dust and noise of 
the town are avoided. The distance is no drawback, as 
there is an electric omnibus as well as plenty of carriages 
ready to convey visitors all over Cairo ; there is also a steam 
ferry across the Nile. The gardens in which the hotel stands 
are as beautiful as any in or near Cairo ; on the east side is 
the broad smooth stream of the Nile. 

These gardens are gay all the winter through with flowers, 
and have many shady walks where one may escape for a 
time from the bustle of the town. During the season a band 
plays every afternoon on the terrace. In the grounds is the 
Casino, where the fancy-dress dances and many other fes- 
tivities are held. A small dance is also held every Thursday 
in the hotel. Close by are the grounds of the Sporting Club, 

24 



CAIRO 

where polo, golf, tennis, and croquet are played, and where 
the races take place every fortnight during the season. 

Mena House Hotel, at the Pyramids, must not be for- 
gotten ; it is about eight miles from Cairo, and is connected 
with it bv a good service of electric trams. The hotel is built 
on the edge of the desert, close to the Great Pjrramid — an 
ideally healthy spot. The management is excellent, and the 
arrangements as comfortable as at any hotel in Egypt. 

For full particulars of the hotels see pages 155-158. 

Cairo is the successor of Amru's city El-Fostat, founded in 
641 A.D. Its foundations were marked out by Gawhar, the 
commander-in-chief of the Caliph Muizz, in 969 a.d., and it 
was named El-Kahira "The Victorious," as the moment when 
the digging was commenced was signified by Mars being in 
the ascendant. It was a walled city with gates — Bab-el- 
Nasr, Bab-el-Foutouh, and Bab-el-Zouileh. The Citadel was 
built by Saladin. We need not dilate here on its history, 
but we may cite the quaint and delightful description of it 
by one Richard Johnson, an Elizabethan, who wrote the 
lives and exploits of " The Seven Champions of Christendom." 
Really his impression of Cairo is too good to lose. Appa- 
rently the chronology is about 500 a.d., though we find a 
Ptolemy reigning in Egypt contemporary with Coventry's 
best mediaeval period. Another charming anomaly is that 
the Great Pyramids are in Greece, and not at Gizeh ; but 
of course in those days there were Paladins, fair distressed 
ladies, dragons, magicians, and fairies galore, and all this 
may well compensate for a mere chronological or topographical 
inaccuracv ! 

" Grand Cairo," says Richard Johnson, "was then under 
the subjection of the Egyptian monarchy, and the greatest 
city of the world ; for it was in breadth full three score miles, 
and had by just account within its walls twelve thousand 
churches, besides abbeys, priories, and houses of religion. 
When St. George with his stately attendants entered the 
gates, they were presently entertained with such a joyful 
sound of bells, trumpets and drums that it seemed like the 
inspiring music of heavenly angels, and to exceed the royalty 
of Caesar in Rome when he returned from the world's 
conquest : the streets were beautified with stately 
pageants contrived by scholars of ingenious capacity, the 
pavement strewed with all manner of odoriferous flowers, 

25 o 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

and the walls hung mth Indian coverlets and curious 
tapestry." 

Well-a-day ! Cairo can hardly, even now, attain the 
gorgeous dimensions and aspect pictured by the writer's 
genial fancy, but it is a fine city, and of great extent : to the 
east and south Abbassieh, the Citadel, then Old Cairo, 
then Ghezireh ; then Boulac, once the port of the metropolis ; 
then, going northwards, Choubra — such are its boundaries. 
It has well over half a million inhabitants, and a very large 
European community, and is no mean city in appearance. 
Stand on the ramparts of the Citadel, and you will see the 
countless houses and mosques, the quiet, broad stream of the 
Nile, and, far off, the sharp grey forms of the Pyramids. 
Turn round, and the old dead towa is below you, silent, a 
city of tombs ; hard by, they seem close together, tombs 
and voiceless huts ; farther off, where the desert begins, 
are the domed shrines, more sparse and conspicuous, of the 
Caliphs and Mamelukes, under the shadow of the Red Moun- 
tain and the ]\Iokattams. To the north are the villages on 
the Matarieh line, a long string of European houses — almost 
a new city — ranging from Pont de Koubbeh out to Matarieh 
itself. Beyond is desert, and the low hills that seem to bound 
it — palest, clearest yellow and white. One far-off native 
village, Kafr Gamous, stands out like a tiny fishing hamlet. 
Its minaret might be the lighthouse at a harbour mouth. 

Cairo at present has a slightly unfinished aspect, owing to 
the immense amount of building involved by the extra- 
ordinary incursion of people of all sorts and nationalities 
during recent years. Those who only knew Cairo ten or 
fifteen years ago cannot recognise it now, with its crowded 
streets, fine shops, high white houses, huge hotels, and 
expansion on all sides. Wliere were almost waste places are now 
streets ; what was native suburb is now a European quarter. 

A walk through the main streets is interest enough in itself. 
You pass *' Shepheard's," its balcony crowded with curious 
and amused tourists. Hawkers of all sorts are yelling, or 
coaxing possible purchasers, offering postcards, ornamental 
fly-whisks, walking-sticks, shawls, "antikas," scarabs fresh 
from the factory. Snake-charmers and boys with tame 
monkeys are performing their antics on the sidewalk. 
Carriages and foot-passengers crowd the road and pavements. 
At the open-air cafes are sitting crowds of Egyptians or — in the 
evening — foreigners of all kinds. The street widens out at the 

26 



1 



CAIRO 

Opera Square ; to the right hand are shops, opposite them the 
Opera House, and to the left the railed-in Esbekieh Gardens ; 
straight on is the wide Midan Abdin, close to Abdin Palace. 
Four main streets lead to the right from the square : the 
Boulac road, just before the Continental Hotel, as yet 
rather a dingy, tram-haunted street, though it will be fine 
enough in four or five years' time, when the Boulac -Ghezireh 
bridge is built ; the Sharia-el-Magraby, wherein is the Angle- 
terre Hotel and also the Turf Club — a fine, open street ; then 
the Sharia-el-Manakh, the Bond Street of Cairo ; and the 
Sharia Kasr-el-Nil, which leads to the Savoy Hotel. 

One may go to the Kasr-el-Nil Bridge and look up the 
river. The Semiramis, the British Agency, and other great 
houses line the bank ; down stream are the barracks, followed 
by the quaint, native buildings of the Boulac quarter, and 
a mile or so away is the Embabeh railway bridge. The island 
of Ghezireh consists practically of the Sporting Club grounds, 
and the quarter where are all the villas, to the north. All 
the afternoon and evening smart carriages and motor-cars 
career round it, and strings of polo ponies pass to and from 
the polo ground. The road straight on from the bridge 
and then to the left is one long avenue all the way to Gizeh, 
and thence to Mena House and the Pyramids. 

The Kasr-el-Nil bridge, which connects Cairo with Ghezireh, 
is opened every day from 1.30 p.m. to 3 p.m. to allow the 
boats to pass up and down. At that hour it is impossible to 
cross the bridge, and the only way to get to Ghezireh is by 
ferry (see page 199). 

The various interests on the Ghezireh side of the river 
are the Khedivial Sporting Club, the Aquarium and Grotto, 
the Zoological Gardens, and the Public Works Department 
plantations. These last are well kept, and have many 
beautiful trees and shrubs. 

KHEDIVIAL SPORTING CLUB 

The Khedivial Sporting Club is the great resort of the 
English, and most of the European colony. It has a twelve- 
hole golf course, twelve asphalt tennis-courts, several squash 
racquet courts, polo grounds and croquet lawns, and a race- 
course (flat and for steeplechasing). There is an excellent 
grandstand, and paddock with a quantity of stalls. The race- 

27 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

meetings are almost always crowded. The totalis at or is in 
use (pari miituel), and tickets on the horses can be taken 
for LEI, or by less wealthy backers for 20 pt. As the principle 
of payment is the division of receipts, less the percentage due 
to the totalisator (which goes to the funds of the racing club), 
one's winnings vary. A favourite whom every one supports 
may not even pay back his full dollar, and outsiders backed 
by a few only have been known to pay 60 to 1. Visitors can 
become temporarj^ members if introduced by a member of the 
club ; they should apply to the secretary. For subscription 
and entrance to the grand stand on race days see page 164. 

Cab fares to the Sporting Club from Cairo: Single, 5pt. ; 
return, 15 pt. (waiting one hour). To the grand stand on 
race days, return, 30 pt. (waiting three hours). 

For particulars of other clubs see page 164. 

THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS 

The Zoological Gardens, a great resort of fashionable Cairo 
on Sunday afternoons, are at Gizeh, close to the plantations. 
The gardens are well laid out and worth seeing, and the 
collection of animals — about a thousand specimens — is very 
interesting. 

The gardens are open daily from 9 a.m. till sunset. En- 
trance: Weekdays, ^ pt. ; Sundavs, 5 pt. (children, 1 pt.). 
Tea can be had on Sundays. Cabs from Cairo : Single 
journe}^ 10 pt. ; return, after waiting two hours, 20 pt. It 
is also possible to go by tram from Kasr-el-Nil bridge. 

THE AQUARIUM 

The Grotto and Aquarium, on the island of Ghezireh, can 
just be seen through the trees on the right-hand side of the 
road past Ghezireh Palace Hotel entrance. In spring it is 
one large mound ablaze with geraniums of all sorts and 
hues, a perfect mass of colour through the dark foliage 
and stems. The Aquarium contains a quantity of different 
varieties of Nile fish. It is open daily from 8.30 a.m. till 
5 P.M. Entrance : Weekdays, J pt. ; Sundays, 1 pt. Cabs 
from Cairo, 15 pt. return, including a wait of an hour. 

CHURCHES 

The principal English Protestant church — All Saints, 
the parish church of Cairo — is in Boulac Road, nearly 

28 



i 



CAIRO 

opposite the telegraph office and close to the Turf Club. 
Services are held at 10.30 a.m. and 6 p.m. every Sunday ; 
Holy Communion at 8.30 a.m. on Sundays, Fridays, and 
Saints' Days ; also after the morning service on the first 
and third Sundays in the month. 

St. Andrew's Church (Church of Scotland) is in Sharia 
Kasr-el-Nil, next door to the British headquarters. Services 
are held at 10.30 a.m. and 6 p.m. every Sunday. 

The American Mission Church (Presbyterian) is in Sharia- 
el-Miliguy, near Shepheard's Hotel. 

St. Joseph's Church (Roman Catholic) is situated in the 
Ismailia quarter. The services during the winter season are : 
Sundays and Holy Days, first mass 6 a.m. ; mass with sermon 
in English at 11 a.m. Weekdays : Mass at 6, 7 and 8 a.m. 

AMUSEMENTS 

One need never be dull in the evening. Every night 
there is sure to be some kind of entertainment at one or the 
other of the hotels — dances, fancy-dress balls, cotillions, and 
concerts. 

There are regular weekly dances — on Saturday at the 
Savoy, Thursday at Ghezireh Palace, and Monday at Shep- 
heard's. Mena House and the Helouan hotels give dances 
from time to time, and also, once or twice in the season, 
a gymkhana. 

MUSIC 

As far as music is concerned, a musical society for 
quartette and chamber music in general is being founded 
by a large and influential section of the more musical members 
of the community. Hitherto the Cercle Artistique ( Sharia - 
el-Madabergh) gave almost the only concerts in Cairo, but every 
one now realises that it is high time to devote more attention 
to these things. 

The Khedivial Opera House is a fine theatre situated in 
the centre of the town. It is under a committee of manage- 
ment, who engage a company for the whole winter. Many 
well-known operas are given. It is somewhat difficult, how- 
ever, to secure seats, as nearly all the boxes and stalls are 
held for the season by abonnes. 

The new Abbas Theatre is most enterprising, and has met 
with well-deserved success since it started a short time ago. 

29 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

Italian opera, grand, and light and French opera houffe have 
met with success worthy of the management. It can hold 
nearly twelve hundred people, and is not uncomfortable. It 
is, however, more or less of a temporary nature. All Cairo 
is hoping for a grand new theatre, plans for which are being 
studied. 

There is in the Ezbekieh Gardens a small theatre, where 
light French plays are from time to time given (though operas 
have been attempted also). Occasionally these are really 
amusing and well acted, though they are naturally of the 
" Capucines " order — vaudevilles and farces. 

There is an Arab theatre in the Ezbekieh quarter, where 
Arabic (and, be it said, rather weird) versions of Shakespeare 
are given, and there are sundry Arab music-halls, where the 
more curious can see native dancing and hear native singing. 

THE BAZAARS 

The native bazaars are a great institution. They are 
situated in or near the Mousky, which is the original 
and oldest commercial street in Cairo — narrow, crowded, 
picturesque, and c|uite unlike any other thoroughfare in the 
city. People of all nationalities and in every sort of clothing 
pass up and down, or in and out of the big wholesale shops. 

About half a mile up the Mousky (beyond the tram crossing) 
there is a turning on the left ; in this are the booths of gold- 
smiths, small native jewellers, and, further dowTi, copper 
vendors. About a hundred yards along this side -street is a 
turning on the right called the Klian Khalil ; this is the 
Turkish bazaar — the best of all the bazaars. The Khan 
Khalil is very narrow, and parts of it are covered in ; its 
devious paths lead past shops of every kind — jewellers, carpet- 
sellers, shawl-sellers, amber merchants, brass and copper 
smiths, Indian and Persian vendors of every and any kind of 
curio or ornament. Of course one can hardly hope to pick 
up treasures. Far too many keen dealers have exploited 
Cairo at various times to leave any really precious "finds." 
But one can — often at quite a reasonable price — buy charm- 
ing turquoises, peridots, and other stones. There are quan- 
tities of fine carpets and praying-mats, swords, spears, 
eourbags (Soudanese rhinoceros -hide whips). As all the wares 
are exposed to the fullest possible view, it is worth passing 
through the bazaars, if only to see so motley an exhibition. 

30 



J 



CAIRO 

The shopkeepers are very civil and zealous to engage 
the attention of all possible buyers. One has to bargain in 
most cases, but it is a genial process, sweetened by many 
cups of coffee, Persian tea, sherbet of sundry kinds, Turkish 
delight, cigarettes, and suchlike delicacies, and if the pur- 
chaser knows the value of the objects he is buying he can 
be certain of procuring them at their proper price. 

On the other (right-hand) side of the Mousky there is a 
street leading off to the right (exactly opposite the one to 
the left mentioned above) ; it widens, and eventually, after 
various turnings, reaches the Bab-el-Zouileh, whence one can 
reach the town by Mohammed Aly Street. In this street and the 
turnings off it are the scent bazaars, and various small shops 
where one can buy the native blue cloth and other attractive 
stuffs. But the sellers are all natives here, and very few of 
them understand English. Instead of turning to the right 
at the Bab-el-Zouileh, one can go almost straight on into a 
covered street, where are shoes, native saddlery, and various 
kinds of leather work. An archway on the right-hand side 
is the entrance to a courtyard off which is a tent-maker's 
shop — the street, indeed, is called the Market of the Tent- 
makers (Souk-el-Kheyamieh). In the shop in question is 
sold the Akmim cloth, a species of tapestry depicting ancient 
Egyptian figures of all sorts — animals, men, boats — and every 
sort of design, in gay colouring. There is a sword bazaar up 
the Mohammed Aly Street, where are all kinds of weapons. 

The chief shops in the Mousky bazaar are : Khauchand 
(Turkish bazaar), Elias Habib (brass bazaar), Joseph Cohen 
(a very excellent shop for carpet, embroidery, &c., and perhaps 
the best place for precious stones). Malluk and Hatoun are 
the names of two big merchants in the Mousky Street. Malluk 
has a large collection of mushrabiyeh (or lattice) woodwork, 
inlaid work, &c. 

Cabs from the Opera Square to the bazaars, 5 pt. ; or return, 
after waiting, 15 pt. 

MOSQUES 

The mosques of Cairo represent some of the finest 
examples of Oriental architecture, though many of the 
older buildings have been allowed to fall into a sad state of 
disrepair. A committee has, however, been formed to under- 
take their preservation, and under its auspices considerable 

31 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

progress has been made towards the restoration of those of 
greatest interest. 

To obtain admission the visitor must be provided with 
tickets, costing 2 pt. each, and obtainable at the hotels, 
tourist agencies, Post Office, or at the mosques themselves. 

All visitors have to put on large Arab slippers (pro- 
vided at the mosques) over their boots — a compromise 
with the Moslem injunction to take off shoes or boots before 
entering. 

For the sake of convenience, we may divide into two groups 
those mosques which, from their antiquity or other associa- 
tions connected with them, are most worthy of a visit . 
(1) those in the neighbourhood of the Citadel, and (2) those 
situated in or about the Mousky quarter. Those of the first 
category can be visited in the morning, and the others in the 
afternoon. 

The Sultan Hussan, situated close to the Citadel, is a 
fourteenth-century mosque of vast dimensions. The massive 
gatew^ay is 85 ft. high, with a stalactite domed roof. Inside 
is the vestibule, which, as the mosque is at present under- 
going restoration, is used as a place of worship. The work of 
restoration will be very thorough, and is expected to take 
two years to complete. The court is 115 ft. long and 105 ft. 
broad, and has a large fountain in the centre. It is cruciform 
in shape, the arms of the cross being formed by four large 
recesses, which were reserved for the four sects of Islam. 
The arches of these recesses are very fine, especially that 
towards the east, the span of which is 70 ft. Under this is 
the dikkeh, or reading-desk, and behind that the kibla, or 
praying niche, ornamented with various inlaid marbles. To 
the right of the kibla is the nimhar, or pulpit. A door to 
the left leads to the mausoleum, in the centre of which is 
the tomb of the founder of the mosque. 

To the left, immediately on entering the courtyard, there 
is a doorway leading into a madrassaJi, or school, containing 
365 rooms, formerly occupied by students. The top stone of 
this doorway is formed of eleven pieces of black and white 
marble dovetailed together. The south minaret is the highest 
in Cairo (280 ft.). 

The building has at various times served as a fortress, and 
lodged in the outer walls may be seen cannon-balls which the 
French fired from the Citadel. 

The unfinished mosque opposite is the Rifaiya, containing 

:{2 



CAIRO 

the tomb of the Kliedive Ismail. It was built during his 
reign. 

The Mohammed Aly Mosque is actually inside the precincts 
of the Citadel. Its domed cupola and two slender, graceful 
minarets are more conspicuous than anything else in Cairo. 
From any and every point of view the mosque stands out, 
boldly Oriental, against the dull, dead grey- brown of the 
hills behind it, dominating Cairo. The mosque was built 
by Mohammed Aly, the founder of the present Khedivial 
dynasty ; the architect was a Greek from Constantinople. 
In the court is a fountain, and in the tower to the west is a 
clock presented to Mohammed Aly by Louis Philippe of 
France. The interior of the mosque is not very imposing, 
and the large number of hanging lamps has a rather tawdrj^ 
effect. The columns and walls are of alabaster up to a 
certain height. To the right is the tomb of Mohammed Aly, 
enclosed by a railing. 

To the east of the Mohammed Aly Mosque is the so-called 
" Joseph's Well." It is 290 ft. deep, and on it, in former 
days, the Citadel depended for its water-supply. Round the 
well-shaft winds a passage, cut through the rock ; half-way 
down is a platform where was formerly the water-wheel, or 
sukkieh, driven by oxen, which raised the water to the surface. 

It is said that when the Citadel was built in the twelfth 
century Saladin Yusuf discovered the well full of sand and 
caused it to be cleared. It is called after him, and not after 
the Joseph of Scripture. 

The Ibn Touloun Mosque, built in 879 a.d., is the oldest 
in Cairo. The walls are of brick, coated with stucco. 

The Kait Bey Mosque (fifteenth century), near the Ibn 
Touloun, is small, but has a most graceful minaret. On the 
pulpit is some fine carving, and the mosaics on the walls 
and floor are worth notice. 

These mosques will probably take up all the morning. 

The Mousky Mosques. — El-Azhar Mosque is in the Sharia 
El-Halwagi, a turning off the Sharia Mousky. It dates from 
972 A.D., in which year Gawhar completed it. In 988 a.d. 
it was converted into a university, the largest to-day in the 
Mohammedan world. It has students (about eight thousand 
in all) from every country, and over two hundred professors. 
The subjects are, first and foremost, the Koran and its com- 
mentaries, and then the " profane " subjects studied in the 

33 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

Middle Ages. All modern learning and knowledge is ignored. 
The education is entirely free. Four of the nine rows of 
pillars in the liwan, or sanctuary, were contributed by one 
Abd-el-Rahman, whose tomb is in the building. This liwan 
is the principal hall of instruction (about 3600 sq. yds. in 
area). The students sit on their heels round their respective 
professors, and pay a varying degree of attention to his 
lecture. 

The Sharia Sanadikiah leads from El-Azhar to El-Ghouri 
Mosque, the interior of which is interesting. Close to it is 
the Mosque El-Moulaiyad (1415 a.d.). Its fine bronze gate 
was taken from the Sultan Hassan Mosque. The roof is 
supported by marble columns, and the lower part of the back 
wall, inlaid here and there with coloured marble, has seven 
niches. The upper half is illuminated with texts in gold 
lettering from the Koran. The roof is of dark material, on 
which are worked gold arabesque patterns. The pulpit is 
fine. The whole building was recently restored, and appears, 
in consequence, cleaner and better preserved than other 
mosques. 

The Mosque of El-Hassanein — close to the Sikket-el- 
Badistan — dedicated to the two grandsons of the prophet 
Hassan and Hussein, is the scene of the annual festival of the 
Shi'ite sect of Mussulmans (chiefly Persians). There is a 
procession through the principal streets at night, led by 
dervishes, who cut at one another with swords and cover 
themselves with blood. 

The Muristan, or Hospital of Kalaoun, and the Barkuk 
Mosque (1410 a.d.) are close together in the Sharia El-Nahas- 
seen, or street of the coppersmiths, who occupy the lower 
parts of the Muristan. 

The Mosque of El-Hakim, further on, has two good minarets. 
It has also the interest of being nearly as old as the Ibn El- 
Touloun Mosque (990 a.d.). The two gates of Bab-el- 
Foutouh and Bab-el-Nasr are close at hand. They and this 
mosque were fortified by the French. From the Bab-el- 
Nasr one can get a carriage — there are always plenty standing 
there — and drive back to one's hotel. 

THE MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES 

The Government collection of Egyptian antiquities, by far 
the most complete of any in the world, is housed in a large 

34 



CAIRO 

new building close to the Nile and near the Kasr-el-Nil 
bridge. The cupola over the main entrancps can be easily seen 
at a distance. It is about ten minutes' drive from the Opera 
Square (cabs, 5 pt.). 

The museum is open every day, except Fridays and Mo- 
hammedan holidays, from 9 a.m. till 4.30 p.m. in winter. 

The entrance is 5 pt. Catalogues are on sale in the build- 
ing — in English 20 pt. and in French 16 pt. There is a " Salle 
de Vente " where genuine antiquities can be bought at their 
proper price. 

The ground floor contains the heavier monuments, statues, 
sarcophagi, stelae, &c., and the upper floor is devoted to 
mummies and other less bulky objects. 

Ground Floor 

The Great Gallery. — In the west wing are sarcophagi of the 
Ancient and Middle Empire, and in the east wing those of 
Saite and Ptolemaic djniasties. 

The Portico. — Two red granite sphinxes and two colossal 
statues, one of Amenhotep and the other of Rameses II., are 
the principal features. There are also two large wooden 
funeral boats from Dahshur. 

Rooms A to F. — Monuments of the Ancient Empire, found 
mostly at Memphis, Gizeh, and Abydos. 

Boom A. — Two sacrificial tables in alabaster, each of which 
is supported by lions. 

Room B. — In front are two pillars with palm capitals 
brought from the temple of Unas, fifth dynasty. A fine 
diorite statue of King Khephren (fourth dynasty), in which 
he is represented life-size, seated on a throne, supported by 
lions ; a falcon protects the king's head with outstretched 
wings. On one side of the king is a wooden statue (found at 
Sakkara) ; the smiling face and the modelling of the body 
are very lifelike: it is called the "Sheikh El-Balad" by the 
Arabs. On the other side is a squatting scribe in coloured 
limestone writing on a leaf of papyrus. In the corner to the 
left is a relief showing a large ape biting a man's leg ; the 
pained look of the victim is most amusing. 

Booms G and D contain a collection of memoiial statues 
and stelse. 

Boom E. — Here is a most valuable historical inscriution 
which records the exploits of one Una under the three 
Pharaohs Teti, Pepi, and Merenra. 

35 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

Room F contains a beautiful lotus -bud pillar of the fifth 
dynasty. In a glass ease are statues of Prince Rahetep and 
his wife, Princess Nefert ; the colouring is remarkably fresh, 
and they are amongst the most charming things in the 
museum. The eyes are made of coloured quartz, and the 
figures have an exceedingly lifelike appearance. There are 
also two fine limestone statues of Ranafer, priest of Ptah, and 
a remarkable statue in bronze of Pepi I., found at Kom-el- 
Ahmar : the face, hands, and feet are cast {cire perdue), the 
body is hammered out. 

Booms G to L contain monuments of the first Theban 
Empire. 

Boom G. — Reliefs from tombs ; a mutilated sphinx dis- 
covered in the ruins of El-Kab. The objects here are mostly 
of the transition period before the twelfth dynasty. 

Boom H. — Wooden statue of the thirteenth d}Tiasty, Eang 
Horus. Red granite statue of King Sebek-em-Saf, found at 
Abydos. Alabaster table of offerings of Princess Nefru- 
Ptah. Limestone statue of King Amenemhet III. Statue, 
probably of Mentuhetep I., of the eleventh dynasty, in the 
garb of Osiris. 

Boom L. — Tomb chamber of Harhotep, brought from 
Thebes and restored. Ten fine limestone statues of Usertsen 
I. of admirable workmanship. A stele on which the straight 
red lines and small squares made by the artist as a guide m 
when cutting out the hieroglyphics are still visible. " 

Boom J. — Colossal bust of a king of the Middle Empire, 
with the name of King Merenptah afterwards added, and 
another colossal statue of King Usertsen IV. from Karnak ; 
also the headless statue of a Hyksos king found at Bubastis. 

Boom K. — Stelae from the Middle and early New Empires. 

Boom L. — Statues of the Hyksos or " shepherd kings." 
Note the Semitic features, denoting their foreign origin. 

Boom M. — Statues and stelse of the eighteenth and nine 
teenth dynasties. A most remarkable figure of the goddess 
Hathor in the form of a cow, found recently at Deir-el- 
Bahari ; the colouring is wonderfully well preserved. Fine 
liead in black granite, probably of Harmhabi. Memorial 
stone of the victories of Amenhotep III., and a sacred serpent 
dedicated by this king to the temple of Harkhont-Khaiti. 
Triumphal monument of Thothmes III. from Karnak. 

Boom N. — Several statues of the lion-headed goddess 
Sekhet in black granite. 

36 



CAIRO 

Gallery 0. — Stelse from Abydos and Thebes. 

The North Portico. — At the top of the staircase leading to 
the Atrium are two statues of Ptah, god of Memphis, and a 
very interesting stele bearing an inscription which is the 
earliest mention of the Israelites — " Israel is wasted and his 
seed brought to nothing." 

Room P. — Antiquities belonging to the eighteenth and 
nineteenth dynasties, including several cynocephali (the dog- 
headed ape sacred to Thoth). A sphinx of Rameses II. A 
group of Tai and his sister Naye ; the resemblance between 
the two is striking. 

Room Q. — Statues, stelae, and inscriptions of the nine- 
teenth and twentieth dynasties. 

Rooms R and S. — Monuments of the Ramesside period. 

Room T. — A statue of Apit-Zoueri, the goddess of births, 
from Karnak ; the body is in the form of a hippopotamus. 
Remains of a monolithic chapel of King Nectanebo II. 

Room U. — Monuments of the Bubastide or twenty-second 
dynasty, Saite and twenty-sixth dynasty. 

Room V. — Saite and Ptolemaic monuments. 

Room, X. — Monuments of the Ethiopian dynasty. Ala- 
baster statue of Queen Amenhartes. Head of Taharku (the 
Tirhakah of the Bible). Stele of Piankhi, B.C. 760. 

Room Y. — Grseco-Roman monuments. A Roman lady. 
A stele inscribed with the celebrated " Decree of Canopus." 
A trilingual inscription of Cornelius Callus, extolling his 
military exploits in Egypt. 

Room Z. — Saite and Crseco-Roman monuments. 

Room A^. — Stelae of the Grseco-Roman period. 

Room B^. — Relief from Luxor of Isis andSerapis killing a 
gazelle. 

Rooms C^ and D±. — Coptic monuments, tombstones, archi- 
tectural fragments, capitals of various kinds. 

Upper Floor 

The Great Gallery. — The mummies and cofhns of the priests 
of Amen and their families, discovered in 1891 by M. Grebaut 
near Deir-el-Bahari, and dating from the twenty -first and 
twenty-second dynasties. Each body had an outer and an 
inner coffin of wood, shaped like a mummy and coated with 
yellow varnish. The arms are crossed upon the breast, the 
hands of the men being clenched, those of the women open. 
The women also have ear-rings. 

37 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

South Room. — A collection of toilet instruments, statuettes, 
vases, sticks, and ornaments. In case " G " is part of a 
triumphal chariot found in 1903 in the tomb of Thothmes IV. 
It is adorned with very fine representations in relief ; the 
surface is of linen and stucco, originally covered with gold. 
There is also the reproduction of an Egyptian war-chariot 
of the eighteenth dynasty ; the original is in the museum at 
Florence. 

Roo7n A. — A collection of metal mirrors, also musical in- 
struments, children's toys, sandals, and toilet articles. 

Room B. — Pottery and bronze articles. 

Roo7n C. — Foundation deposits from Deir-el-Bahari, minia- 
ture hatchets, awls, chisels, &c. ; statuettes of various 
periods ; amulets found with mummies of the Saite, Ptole- 
maic, and Greek periods. 

Room D. — Funerary statuettes, small funeral barks, 
caskets, &c. In glass case " S " is a unique example of a 
sailing-boat of the Middle Empire period. 

Room E. — Funerary statuettes and Canopic jars or vases, 
in which were placed the internal organs of the deceased after 
being embalmed. 

Room F. — ^IMummy coverings, &c. 

Room G. — Manuscripts on papyrus and linen. 

Roatn H. — Writing and painting utensils, palettes, colours ; 
writing on wooden tablets, fragments of pottery, &c. 

Room I. — Papjrri, drawings on stone and papjrrus ; one, 
representing the weighing of the soul, is of extremely good 
workmanship. 

Room J. — ^Furniture and domestic utensils. Beautiful 
fragment of a painted pavement from the palace of Amen- 
hotep III. at Medinet Habu. A plan of the tomb of Rameses 
IX. on a slab of limestone. 

Room K. — Weights and measures. 

Room L. — Stamped bricks, bronze locks, and door fas- 
tenings. 

Room M. — Grseco-Roman and Coptic remains. 

Room N. — Terra -cotta of the Graeco-Roman period. 

Gallery O. — Groeco-Roman statuettes, mummy coverings, 
and masks in coloured plaster. 

Northern Hall. — Statues of gods in stone, bronze, and 
glazed ware. 

Room P. — Contains a splendid collection of ancient Egyp- 
tian jewellery. 

38 



CAIRO 

Gallery Q. — Coffins and mummies of Theban princes and 
princesses of the twenty-first dynasty. 

Booms Rto Ci. — Contain the royal mummies. This is the 
largest and most interesting collection in the world. 

Room i)i. — Objects from the earliest Egyptian tombs. 

Opening off the great gallery are two rooms containing a 
collection of arrow-heads, flints, and tools of the Stone Age, 
used for quarrying in prehistoric times ; also several natural 
history specimens. 

KHEDIVIAL LIBRARY 

The Khedivial Library is situated in the Sharia Mohammed 
Ali, on the left-hand side going towards the Citadel, about 
fifteen minutes' walk from the Post Office. Tramways also 
pass the door. It was founded by the late Khedive Ismail 
Pacha, and removed in 1904 from somewhat unsuitable 
quarters in the Darb-el-Gamamiz to the fine building which 
it now occupies. It is open in winter every day except 
Fridays and Mohammedan holidays from 8 a.m. till one 
hour before sunset. 

Admission is free, but to enter the reading-room and news- 
paper-room a card is required, which is obtained free on 
application to one of the attendants. 

There are over sixty-six thousand volumes in the library. 
Half of these are in European languages and deal with various 
subjects — history, geography, and the different sciences ; 
the other half consists of books in Oriental languages. There 
are more than thirteen thousand Arabic manuscripts. 

In a wing of the building especially set apart for them is 
a very fine exhibition of illuminated Korans, dating for the 
most part from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. This 
collection numbers seven hundred in all, and is the finest in 
existence. 

Among the other treasures may be mentioned : Papyri 
from the first century of the Hegira, i.e., 622-719 a.d. ; a 
copy of the Koran from the Mosque El-Amr, written about 
725 A.D. ; two very large copies, one of which belonged to 
the Sultan Khish Kadam ^461-1467 a.d.) and the other to 
the Emir Kait Bey (1468-1495 a.d.), the latter measuring 
43| in. by 35 in. ; some Persian MSS. of the fifteenth century, 
with old Persian bindings ; and an Indian album containing 
thirty-four miniatures of great beauty. To these may be 

39 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

added the Kudatku Bilik, the oldest book in the Turkish 
language, composed about 1110 a.d. and written in Cairo 
about 1350 a.d. 

There is also a collection of over four thousand coins in 
gold, silver, and bronze, of the Umaiyad and Abbassid Caliphs 
and the Mameluke, Turkish, and Circassian dynasties, &c., 
forming the greatest collection of Egyptian coins extant. 

THE ARAB MUSEUM 

This is in the same building as the lOiedivial Library, but 
the entrance is round the corner to the left from the latter, 
in the Midan Bab-el-Khalk. 

It is open in winter every day except Fridays and Moham- 
medan holidays from 9 a.m. till 4.30 p.m. 

A catalogue is on sale at the price of 20 pt. 

The very fine collection of Arab antiquities, brought in 
many cases from old Cairo mosques, but also from Upper 
and Lower Egypt, is divided amongst fifteen rooms. The 
different objects are arranged separately, and as far as 
possible in chronological order. 

Room 1 contains objects in stone and marble, chiefl}' 
funerary stones. 

Room 2 contains ornamental objects in stone and marble. 

Room 3 contains mosaics, casts, &c., and some very fine 
examples of mushrabieh work, a large chandelier from the 
Sultan Hassan Mosque, and other interesting objects in 
marble. 

Room 4 contains some very old carvings in wood, leaves of 
a door from the mosque of Kalaoun, prayer niches and reading- 
stands for the Koran, &c. 

Room 5 contains four massive old doors, two dating from 
the thirteenth century and two from Turkish times, mush- 
rabieh work, lattices, &c. 

Room 6 contains carved-w^ood ornaments and doors. 

Room 7 contains Arabic tables beautifully inlaid with 
ivory, wooden nimbar stairs and pulpits from mosques, boxes 
to hold the Koran, &c. 

Room 8 contains mushrabieh work, pulpits, and mosaic 
stone pavement. 

Rooms 9 and 10 contain metal work, bronze plated doors, 
Koran boxes in yellow metal inlaid with silver, engraved 
vases of ancient workmanship. 

40 



CAIRO 

Room 11 contains earthenware (faience), some samples of 
native work, very valuable dish in cornelian, picture of the 
Ka'aba at Mecca, enamelled on earthenware, made in 1726. 
In glass cases, fragments of pottery of beautiful design. 

Room 12 contains decoration in stucco brought from an 
Arab room behind the church of Abu Sephen in Old Cairo, 
&c. &c. 

Room. 13 contains an interesting room from an Arab house 
in Rosetta. 

Room. 14 contains a number of beautiful old hanging-lamps, 
richly enamelled bottles, and vases. 

OLD COPTIC CHURCHES 

The old Coptic churches of Cairo are difficult to find, hidden 
away in out-of-the-way corners, unsuspected by the unin- 
itiated. No tapering spires or Gothic towers indicate their 
presence. They are unpretentious buildings, very old, some- 
what neglected-] ooking. They keep modestly out of sight, 
as if the persecutions to which the Copts were exposed in 
bygone days have made them fearful of exposing themselves 
to the broad light of day. A simple cross over the doorway 
or on the top of some little belfry alone distinguishes them 
from the other buildings which crowd upon and almost 
overwhelm them. 

Their interior has little architectural adornment. They 
are very small, and can only contain a hundred or so of 
worshippers at most. To make up for this, perhaps, three 
churches are in some cases found together or only a few yards 
apart. They are generally divided into three sections by 
screens, running transversely across the church, and where 
there is no gallery another screen forms a lateral division 
which shuts off the women from the men : the sexes are 
always kept apart. 

At the very back, separated from the main body of the 
church by a screen, is the nekal, or sanctuary, where is the 
altar ; access to this is reserved for the priest and his assis- 
tants and those about to take Communion. Another curious 
feature is the fact that there are no chai'^s or seats of any 
kind. The few worshippers squat on the floor, or, at certain 
parts of the service, stand, and as this wearies them in the 
course of the almost interminable service they provide them- 
selves with crutches upon which to lean. 

41 D 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

The service is very primitive, consisting chiefly in long 
extracts from the Scriptures, according to the ritual for the 
day, read by the priest in either Coptic or Arabic. The 
priest is attired in a long black robe, and wears a fez, round 
which is Avound a turban of black cloth. This is a relic of the 
old days when, according to the laws imposed upon them 
by their Arab conquerors, the Copts were obliged to Avear 
this dress to distinguish them from the Moslems. They are 
generally assisted in the service by boys, Avho form the choir, 
carry the censer, and help to read the prayers. 

The majoritv of the ancient Coptic churches are to be 
found in Old Cairo. The best way to reach them is by the 
tram Avhich goes doAATi the Sharia-el-Ainv, starting originally 
from the Ataba El-Kadra, near the Post Office (the "Clapham 
Junction " of all the trams). The road is lined with private 
houses as far as Kasr-el-Ainy Government Hospital, near 
which is the Kasr-el-Ainy Mosque, where are the Howling 
Dervishes. Just before reaching the Aqueduct (built in 1518 
A.D.) a road turns off to the left, passes the old English 
cemetery, and leads to the Convent of St. Menas (Deir Mari 
Mena), marked off from the other buildings by a small cross 
on a little belfry. It is surrounded by a wall, in which is a 
gatcAvay leading to a courtyard. Another doorway opposite 
opens on to a little court, and thence into the precincts of 
the church. 

Outside the entrance are the boots of the few worshippers 
attending the service. The walls of the apartment are 
whitewashed, and on two sides are some old pictures repre- 
senting the Virgin Mary, the Crucifixion, and other scenes 
from the New Testament ; opposite is a kind of balcony 
reached by a pair of movable steps. The floor is covered by 
a well-worn carpet, bordered by rush matting. In the centre 
is a small well containing Avater, AAith AAhich, on the Thursday 
of Holy Week, the priest performs the ceremony of washing 
the feet of his congregation ; opposite this are a pair of 
burning tapers in rude candlesticks, and close to them a 
lectern. From the beams in the roof, suspended by ropes, 
are glass candelabra of common but no doubt ancient Avork- 
manship. Around the walls are pictures of saints. In the 
centre is a reading-desk, with a large Bible, printed in Co23tic 
characters doAAH the centre, with Arabic translation at the 
side. On the left hand, separated by a screen, is the sanc- 
tuary containing the altar. 

42 



CAIRO 

There are also two other churches here, close together, 
but they do not call for any special remark. 

One has now to return towards the Aqueduct, and to keep 
to the east side of the Helouan railway for about a mile. 
Just past the new Protestant cemetery is a high wall en- 
closing a garden of palm-trees, and terminating in a small 
dwelling-house, on the side of which is a plate bearing the 
name of Chareh Gamehamr. In the corner formed by this 
building and an old brick wall is a doorway which leads 
through winding lanes between the houses to the Der Abu 
Sefen. This comprises three churches, one of which is being 
restored, and contains a fine old ebony screen inlaid with 
ivory, an altar casket which dates from the year 1280 a.d., 
and an altar in marble. It is in a better condition than the 
church of Deir Mari Mena. 

From Abu Sefen the way lies along the Helouan railway 
line towards the village of Kasr-esh-Shamas, the inhabitants 
of which are nearly all Copts. At the second level crossing 
one must turn to the left. Nearly opposite is a short incline 
leading towards a door in the wall, whence a narrow winding 
path leads between the dwelling-houses to the church of Abu 
Sergeh. It is larger than the others, though its size cannot 
be properly apprecieited as it is divided up by screens. On 
the screen separating the sanctuary from the rest of the 
church are some very fine old carvings. Underneath the 
church is a crypt, older than the church itself, reached by a 
dark flight of steps, where is pointed out an alcove where, 
according to tradition, the Virgin Mary rested after the 
flight into Egvpt. It also contains an old baptismal font. 

A little way further on is a new Greek church, circular in 
shape. Passing round the side of this a narrow, winding 
path leads to the beautiful little ch'irch of St. Barbara. 

Just opposite St. George's railway station a large archway, 
bearing inscriptions in Arabic, leads into a courtyard ; from 
the other side a broad flight of steps leads towards the church 
El-Moallaka," much finer than any of the others. Above is 
a gallery for the women, with mushrabieh windows, through 
which they can look but remain themselves unseen. The 
screen dividing off the altar is a beautiful piece of work- 
manship, being composed of carved ebony and cedar inlaid 
with ivory. There are some very old pictures of saints and 
one of the Virgin Mary, which is said to be nine hundred years 
old. The most interesting object is, however, the pulpit, 

43 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

probably dating from the twelfth century. The church 
itself was probably built in the sixth century ; it is, however, 
in a remarkably well-preserved condition. In the corner 
of the right aisle is a cabinet containing caskets in which are 
said to be preserved the bones of St. Barbara and of other 
saints. 

The return journey may be made from St. George's station 
by the Helouan railway to Bab-el-Louk station, or by crossing 
the line and continuing towards the Nile the terminus of the 
tramway may be reached. 

Two churches in the Mousky quarter are worth seeing. 
They are situated in the Sharia Zuwila, a lane leading out 
of the Sharia-el-Souren, which is the first turning to the left 
after passing the tram-line which crosses the Mousky. The 
churches are built one above the other ; the upper one is 
divided, as in the case of the other churches, by screens, 
and contains the usual pictures of saints, among which are 
those of the Virgin, St. Theodore, and St. George, which, 
according to an inscription, are four hundred years old. The 
gallery above is occupied by nuns, who are hidden from sight 
by a tall screen. 

Below the level of this church, and communicating with 
it by a flight of stairs, is the other, dedicated to the Virgin. 
It has been recently restored, but great care has been taken 
to leave it as much as possible in its original state. In an 
annex is shown a greatly venerated picture of the Virgin 
Mary and Child ; the hands of the Child and the tiara which 
surrounds His head are of silver. 



HELOUAN 

Helouan has a certain distinction in that it is, so far, the 
only modern " desert " town in the north of Egypt. Its 
chief merits are the fine air and the sulphur baths. Obviouslv 
it is more a resort for invalids than for others, yet manv 
prefer it even to Cairo. A group of houses on yellow sand, 
the range of high, sheer hills to the east, the broad plain down 
to the river, and, beyond, the P3n:"amids, Sakhara, Dahshur, 
and in the far distance Mena — such is Helouan, brilliant, 
clear-cut, and wind-swept, in keen sunlight. In the evening 
all is enhanced by the glorious colouring of the sunset : the 
P3a'amids stand out to the last ; at first sharp and red, they 
become dim purple shapes, and then fade with the fading 

44 



CAIRO 

colours. The hills — the Mokattam range — appear as a grim 
blue-black wall, with intense black depths and profound 
shadows. 

Those who stay at Helouan, if not invalids, will find a 
fair amount of occupation. There are two or three race 
meetings and sometimes a gymkhana during the season. Of 
an evening dances and concerts are held from time to time 
at the hotels or Casino. The Survey Department Obser- 
vatory, which is the Greenwich of Egypt, is high up on the 
hill at the back, and deserves a visit. There are wadies or 
valleys to be explored ; purely torrential gullies, full of 
stones, great and small, carried down by the rush of water 
from the hills. A few tracks of hare or gaz3lle appear. A 
little sparse vegetation — starved, stunted shrubs — shows 
that moisture now and again exists in these clefts. They 
give a curious effect of winding desolation. 

There is some tennis to be had, and there is also the golf 
course, with noble hazards. True, the heavy sand here and 
there and the unduly fast " greens " are occasionally exas- 
perating, but the joy of the three or four difficult " carries," 
the delight at a fine iron-shot taken clean and full off the 
difficult surface — these are compensations. It is a real test 
of good golf. 

To give a few practical details : Helouan is about fifteen 
miles south of Cairo, on the eastern bank of the Nile. The 
town stands in the desert two hundred feet above the river. 
Bab-el-Louk is the station for Helouan ; it is about five 
minutes' drive from the Savoy Hotel and eight minutes 
from the Opera Square. The journey takes about half an 
hour by the fast trains. The time-table will be found on 
page 189. Helouan's sunshine average is high — about eight 
hours per day from November to April — and the average 
temperature about 60° Fahrenheit. It seldom falls b3low 
60° or rises above 72°. There is scarcely ever any rain. 

Helouan is a great place for throat, lung, and digestion 
troubles ; the fine, pure, dry air is about the best remedy 
possible for these. It has also an excellent bath establish- 
ment ; the water comes from various thermal springs that 
rise in the desert. It is stronger than any sulphur- water in 
Europe, and is known in the medical world for its wonderful 
curative powers in cases of stiff joints, rheumatoid arthritis, 
sciatica, chronic gout, and skin affections. 

Hotels. — There are several first-class hotels at Helouan, 

45 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

furnished with everything that can ensure the comfort and 
entertainment of visitors. 

The " Grand " is opposite the casino ; it has a garden, tennis- 
courts, and a croquet lawn. The interior arrangements leave 
nothing to be desired, as the rooms are large and comfortably 
fitted and the management is excellent. The Helouan Golf 
Course and Club House belong to the " Grand." and are a 
great attraction to visitors. 

The Tewfik Palace was built as a palace by the Khedive 
Tewhk Pacha, who greatly appreciated Helouan and often 
stayed there. The hotel is about ten minutes from the 
station and close to the racecourse ; it also possesses a 
tennis court. 

The Hotel des Bains : this hotel has the advantage of being 
close to the baths ; it is quiet, and the charges are moderate. 

El-Hayat — the Sanatorium — high up the hill-side, on 
the desert, is a comfortable hotel, and is furnished with 
modern conveniences. 

These are the principal hotels, but there are many smaller 
ones as well as pensions and nursing-homes. A few of these 
may be mentioned : The Hotel Heltzel, Pension Antonio, 
Pension Loir, and The Winter Hotel. These can be recom- 
mended. 

For full particulars of the hotels, see pages 158, 159. 

There is an English church in Helouan and a resident 
chaplain. All through the winter there is a resident doctor 
\\ho is in charge of the baths. 

The sports we have already mentioned. The race meetings 
are held by the Helouan Sporting Club under the rules of the 
Cairo (Khedivial) Sporting Club. There are bands at the 
Casino Gardens and at the hotels, and concerts and dances 
are given from time to time. To the sights which can be 
visited from Helouan, one may add the Monastery, tombs 
and caves at Massarah, four miles away and ten minutes hy 
train. The stones for the Pyramids came from these caves, 
in which are many inscriptions and names. The places of 
interest at the Cairo end of the line — such as the Aqueduct, 
Coptic churches, &c. — we mention elsewhere under Cairo; 
but they can quite easily be reached from Helouan. Further, 
the Delta Light Railway Company have erected a stand for 
the ceremony of the Holy Carpet at the Citadel, and the 
princi})al hotels sell tickets for train fares and admission 
thereto. 

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EGYPT, AND HOW TO S E E I T 

ZEITOUN, MATARIEH AND MARG 

Some twenty years ago, beyond Abbassieh, there was 
nothing but desert, a few tiny hamlets on the cultivated 
land, the palm-groves of Marg, and then more desert as far 
as Khanka and x4bou Zaabal quarries. Away to the right 
hand is the bank of the former railway to Suez, and beyond 
that the watch-towers along the old Suez road. 

All this has been changed since the railway line was laid 
from Pont Limoun (close to Cairo main-line station) to Marg. 
The villages have become European suburbs, with quantities 
of flats and villas. Every one is building right and left, and 
a large proportion of the European colony live there. At 
Palais de Koubbeh is H.H. the Khedive's palace and his 
beautiful gardens. At Zeitoun, further on, is a good hotel 
(The Grand Hotel, see page 159). Zeitoun has also a small 
but flourishing tennis club with two asphalt courts. 

Matarieh has its own special interest apart from the other 
villages in that it occupies the site of ancient Heliopolis, or 
On, as it was called, the city of the sun god. The priesthood 
was most powerful here, and at times rivalled even that 
of Thebes. The city seems to have been in existence in 
the fourth dynasty, but its great period was the reign of 
Usertsen I., B.C. 2433, Avho rebuilt the temple and dedicated 
it to Horus-Ra — i.e., the rising sun, and Teum, the setting sun, 
incarnate in the Muevis Bull. He set up two obelisks before 
the temple, of which one was thrown down in the thirteenth 
centurv. The other still stands — the only visible remnant 
of that great citv. It has on it an inscrpition. Dr. Wall is 
Budge's translation reads as follows : 

" The Horus, the one born of life. King of the South and 
North, Kheper-Ka-Ra. Lord of the shrine Nekhebet. Lord 
of the shrine LTatchet, the one form of life, the Son of the 
Sun. Usertsen of the Spirits of Annu, beloved living for ever, 
the Golden Horus, the one born of life, the beautiful God, 
Kheper-Ka-Ra, in the first day of the Set festival truly he 
made this obelisk, the giver of life for ever." 

Joseph, it is said, married the daughter of Potiphar, a 
priest of the city. In the Ptolemaic period it declined, and 
its wise men moved to Alexandria. In B.C. 24 it was prac- 
tically in ruins. 

At Matarieh is also the Virs^ins Tree, a huge sycamore 

48 



CAIRO 

under which the Virgin is said to have rested, and the well 
from which she drew water wherewith to wash the Child's 
garment. Where she threw it down balsam-plants sprang 
np, so it is said. The balsam-trees which originated from 
these were said to grow nowhere else in Egypt, and no 
Christian was considered to be properly baptized unless a 
drop of their oil was thrown into the font. The Apocryphal 
Gospels also state that the idols of On fell down when the 
Virgin and Child reached the city. 

On the desert side of Matarieh is the Ostrich Farm, which 
is open to visitors. It is an interesting object for an after- 
noon excursion. The view from the top of the building, 
round which are the pens of the ostriches, embraces desert 
and cultivation, Cairo and the Mokattams. 

Marg is a thoroughly native mud village in a large grove 
of palm-trees ; it contrasts strikingly with the European 
settlements at the other stations. 

One can motor out as far as Matarieh, and it is possible 
that a motor-road may be made shortly as far as Khanka. 
The trains run every half -hour from Pont Limoun to Marg 
up to 1.30 at night. The time-table is on page 187. 

THE HELIOPOLIS OASIS 

The phenomenal extension of Cairo in all directions induced 
a group of financiers to start the scheme known as the " Helio- 
polis Oasis " in 1905. Some five thousand acres of high- 
lying desert land near H.H. the Khedive's Palace at Koubbeh 
were procured, with the object of building a species of desert 
pleasure city. The work is at this moment progressing 
vigorously. A fine road connects Abbassieh with the " Oasis," 
and a motor service has been organised. An electric railw^ay 
is also in process of construction, to connect the " Oasis '' 
with Pont Limoun station, and a network of roads has been 
laid out in the " city " itself. Some fifty villas and shops, 
a station for the electric railway, a family hotel, a casino in 
Moorish style, and the Heliopolis Palace Hotel are in course 
of erection, and a large amount of work has already been 
achieved. 

The Palace Hotel has been conceived on a large scale. 
It is in the Oriental style of architecture, and will have a 
fine restaurant on each of its two stories, from whence is 
obtained a wide view of the desert, the cultivation, and Cairo ; 

49 



EGYPT. AND HOW TO SEE IT 

it will contain four hundred rooms, litted with every comfort 
as well as sitting-rooms, reading-rooms, billiard-rooms, 
concert-rooms, bars, &c. &c. In a word, it is designed to 
meet every wish and even caprice of the visitor or resident 
who cares to exchange the heat and dust and rush of Cairo 
for the quiet and pure air of the desert. Further, the origi- 
nators of the scheme have laid out a " Sporting Park," as 
one may call it, for racing, golf, tennis, polo, and other games. 
The purity of the keen air, the sense of space, the beauty of 
the surroundings, and the graceful design and arrangement 
of the whole city lend an unusual charm and distinction 
thereto. 

Another quarter is devoted to the provision of houses and 
flats for residents whose slender means forbid the high rents 
exacted in Cairo. There are also various fine villas and 
mansions being built for the richer residents. 

There is a police station, a church, and a mosque in the 
best Arabic style. In a word, Heliopolis is to be a complete 
city in the desert, a Cairo in pttto with its o\ati share of 
amusements and interests, and Avithout many of the disad- 
vantages that so often weary and annoy the Cairenes. Mr 
Edward Dicey, C.B., a w^ell-known AATiter on Egypt and 
Egyptian questions, says : " The view of Cairo and of the 
Pyramids and of the Delta as seen from the Suez desert 
surrounding the Heliopolis Oasis City is one of the most 
beautiful I have ever witnessed in any country of the world.' 

THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHINX 

Mena House, the Pyramids, and the Sphinx are as acces- 
sible as any one could Avish nowadays. There is a really 
good tramAvay ser\ice between Ghezireh (close to the Kasr- 
el-Nil Bridge) and Mena. 

The fares are : First class, 3 pt. ; second class, 1 J pt. 

A special late tram leaves Mena House on full -moon nights. 

The cab fare from Cairo is 40 pt. single, and 69 pt. return. 

The half-hour's run by tram is distinctly attractive. At 
first the line parallels the left bank of the Nile, and one can 
Avatch the river and the Mokattams and Citadel, grey and 
ciear-cut against the sky by day, deep blue and black and 
studded Avith yelloAv lights at night. At Gizeh the line 
changes its direction, turning almost at right angles toAvards 
^lena. After the bridge OA^er the raihvay is passed, the 

50 




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o 






EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

whole road is level ; on either side is a long plain, in early 
winter a vast sheet of water as far as the eye can reach, one 
rose-red expanse at sunset, on which quiver the huge tri- 
angular shadows of the Pyramids. Later, the water passes 
oflF, and in a month or two all is one wide sea of verdure. 

The road is Ismail's creation, built in an incredibly short 
space of time. It is the finest road in the country. The 
long avenue of Lebbek trees is crow^ded with cabs, carriages, 
motor-cars, native carts, strings of camels, and a few stray 
cyclists of equally strange nationality and dress. Between 
the trees, as the tram flies along, one is suddenly aware of 
those great shapes — sharp, grey-red, rigid above the rough 
desert cliff. Little black spscks move to and fro at their 
base — people already exploring and sight-seeing. 

A crowd of white-robed donkey-boys and dragomans hover 
round the tram as it arrives. The hotel is a few yards off 
to the right hand. After seeing the Pyramids and the 
Sphinx, one may stop and have lunch, or tea on the verandah, 
before returning to Cairo. 

The road curves up the hill to the Pyramids. There is no 
escape from these great monuments. They stand silent 
above everything. They appear, faint blue shapes of sharp 
outline from Galioub as the train approaches Cairo, from 
Matarieh, from the Ghezireh club grounds above the tree- 
tops, from any and every point of clear westward view in 
Cairo. 

Their size alone and their form remains. Stripped of their 
brilliant white smooth casing, once covered with strange 
carvings and paintings, bereft of the huge precincts and 
stone gateways, they appear barbarous, rude, rugged, almost 
meaningless, shapes of forgotten power. And the Sphinx is 
more wonderful, more mysterious still, Horemku the ancient. 
No one can tell when the Sphinx came into being. There is a 
legend that it was in existence at the time when Chephren 
built his Pyramid. Thothmes IV. cleared away the sand in 
which it was buried, at the command — given in a dream — of 
Harmachis, who claimed that it was his statue. Probably 
a far greater antiquity belongs to it, for Princess Honitsen, 
daughter of Cheops (builder of the Great Pyramid) speaks, 
in an inscription on a stele, of a " Temple of the Sphinx " 
as existing in her day. The following is a translation : 

" Horns the everlasting, who overwhelmed his enemies 

62 



CAIRO 

the King of Egypt, Khoufou, Giver of Life, hath found the 
temple of Isis. Queen of the Pyramid. Near to the temple 
of the Sphinx to the north-west of the temple of Osiris, Lord 
of the Tomb. He hath built his Pyramid hard by the temple 
of the Goddess, and he hath built the Pyramid of his royal 
daughter Honitsen near unto this temp'e. This he hath 
done to the glory of his mother Isis, Divine Mother, to the 
glory of Hathor, Lady of the waters which come from the 
firmament. He hath renewed her glory, and hath rebuilded 
her sanctuary in stone. He dwelleth with them in his temple. " 

We see the Sphinx now defaced and mutilated, though 
Arab writers speak of its once strangely beautiful features. 
A suggestion this that perhaps it is the sole survivor of a 
more ancient civilisation still, far beyond our ken ; for the 
Egyptian craftsmen whom we know, did not aim at beauty 
in itself : tied by convention, the keynote of their work was 
grandeur — immensity that disdained proportion. And yet, 
there, close to their most ancient monuments, is that figure 
perfect in proportion, form, and line, and once in beauty a 
deeper, more mystical symbol than their most cunning 
gravings, more real in life than their most immense statues. 

The granite temple a short distance south-east of (he 
Sphinx is known as the " Temple of the Sphinx," and is said 
to have been the sanctuary of Sokaris Osiris ; it is of con- 
siderable interest. Ancient as they are, the huge slabs of 
granite of which it is built are so beautifully surfaced and 
fitted thrit many of the joints even to-day are hardly per- 
ceptible. 

But to return to the Pyramids themselves, and such facts 
as concern them : there are three — the Great Pyramid of 
Cheops, the second Pyramid of Khephren, and the third, 
far smaller, of Mycerinus or Menkauru. They are all attri- 
buted to the fourth dynasty. 

The height of the Great Pyramid is 451 ft. (formerly 482), 
its sides cire 750 fr. long at the base (formerly 768), and it 
covers an area of about thirteen acres. The second Pyramid 
is 447 ft. high, and the third only 203 ft. 

The Pyramids seem to have been commenced with a 
nucleus of rock around which were built huge stone steps 
which were finally filled in with smooth polished stones. 
The outer casing has been wholly removed at various periods, 
and only a fragment of it remains on the second Pyramid. 

53 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

The smooth surface was covered with sculptures and in- 
scriptions. 

The chambers and passages inside had their special uses 
as sepulchres, and were finally closed when the king for 
whom they were built had been entombed. There used to 
be a tempio close to each Pyramid, devoted to the honour of 
the monarch. 

The Great Pyramid can be climbed : it is an exertion, and 
though the view is fine, it is quite what one expects from any 
high point. Ascent by proxy is, however, quite easy and 
costs a few piastres : the Arab boys are always ready to 
compete therein. 

The Great Pyramid was opened by Caliph El-Mamoun in 
820 A.D. on the chance of finding treasure, but the entrance 
his men made is now blocked up. The present entrance is 
about 40 ft. from the base. A great vaulted gallery leads 
down to the subterranean chamber. 90 ft. below the base and 
347 ft. from the entrance ; it is 11 ft. high and measures 
46 by 27 ft. ]\Iariette claimed that this was a false chamber, 
intended to divert the attention of any one entering from 
the real tomb. An upward passage leads towards the centre, 
and is the approach to the " Queen's Chamber ' (18 ft. by 
17 and 20 ft. high). Mariette considers that here also the 
passage to the great gallery was closed, so that those who 
reached this point might suppose they had seen all the 
P3^amid held. The great gallery is 151 ft. long, 7 ft. wide, 
and 28 ft. high ; it leads to the King's Chamber (34 ft. by 17 
and 19 ft. high), in which are the remains of a red granite 
sarcophagus. 

There is much argument about these Pyramids : some 
even consider that they had some strange metrical and 
dimensional object. But however their dimensions may 
have been devised, the consensus of opinion is that they are 
tombs : for that matter the Pyramid may be a monument 
to the king's learning as well as a resting-place for his body. 

The smallest Pyramid, that of Mycerinus, is said, in 
one legend, to have been built by one of the princesses on 
doubtfully acquired resources : another myth assigns it to 
Rhodopis, but Mycerinus was the real builder. He it is to 
whom it was revealed by the gods that he had but six years 
to live, but it is said that he doubled the period by turning 
day into night. 

Th(^ following is a translation of an inscription on the 

54 



CAIRO 

cover of the sarcophagus of King Mycerinus, which was 
found in the third Pyramid : 

' Osiris, lord of the two lands, Menkauru who livest 
eternally, child of Heaven, borne on the breast of Nut, 
begotten of Gabou. Thy mother Nut bendeth over thee from 





Ou the Nile ofE Sakkara 

the vault of Heaven. She maketh thee a god, she bringeth 
thine enemies to nought. King Menekauru who livest 
eternally.' ' 



THE TOMBS AND PYRAMIDS OF SAKKARA 

This expedition is usually made by train from Cairo to 
Bedreshein, a journey of about an hour. The best trains 
are : from Cairo at 7 a.m. and 9.30 a.m. ; from Bedreshein 
at 4.46 P.M. and 8.58 p.m. The fare is : first class, 16| pt. ; 
second class 8| pt.. There is a buffet at Bedreshein station 
where light refreshments can be oi^tained. 

Donkeys with good saddles are waiting at the station, the 

55 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

price bsing 10 pt. each for the day ; it is a ride of about 
an hour and a half to Sakkara. 

One can visit Sakkara from Helouan ; in this case the 
river has to be crossed by ferry, and altogether it will take 
about two hours and a half. 

The third route is across the desert, about two hours 
from Mena House by donkey — or better, by sand-cart, a 
curious but most adequate vehicle with broad tyres for 
driving on loose sand. This route leads direct to Sakkara. 
If Memphis and the colossal statues of Rameses are to be 
seen without making a long detour, the routp via Bedreshein, 
which is really the shortest, easiest and most practical, must 
be taken. 

Lunch should be brought from Cairo ; here the luncheon- 
basket is a useful necessity. Lunch can be taken at Mariette's 
House, close to the principal points of interest, where tables, 
chairs, &c., are arranged in the shade. Candles or an acety- 
lene bicycle lamp should also be brought, for exploring the 
underground tombs. If a general Anticjuity Pass (see page 
171) has not been purchased, tickets for Sakkara alone can be 
obtained at Mariette's House, the Museum in Cairo, or of 
Messrs. Cook and Son, at 5 pt. per head. 

The ruins of Bedreshein and Sakkara are the relics of that 
great city Memphis, one of the most famous of all ancient 
cities. 

The village of Bedreshein stands on the site of the old 
town, and as this was situated in the valley which is covered 
each year by the inundation, little indeed remains of its 
former greatness ; the colossi of Rameses, the foundations 
oi a temple of Ptah, and a few scattered mounds are all that 
is left. Above, on the edge of the desert, was the necropolis 
of Memphis, and here there are many well-preserved monu- 
ments of the earliest times. 

Memphis, it is said, was founded by Menes, first mortal 
king of Egypt. During the third, fourth, and fifth dynasties 
it was the capital of all Egypt, the Royal city. Its kings 
built palaces and temples of unrivalled magnificence, and 
provided vast tombs to immortalise their greatness. 

Throughout the history of Egypt Memphis was of the 
greatest importance, though only for short periods the capital, 
and even in Ptolemaic times it was a large and thriving city. 
The triad, Ptah, Sekhet, and Bast were the principal deities ; 
they resemble the Theban triad Amen, Mut, and Khons. 

50 



CAIRO 

Ptah was incarnate in the Apis bulls, who were first wor- 
shipped, then drowned in the sacred lake, embalmed, and 
finally buried in the magnificent granite sarcophagi of the 
Apis Tombs. 

The first objects of interest after leaving the station are 
the Colossi of Rameses 11. : these formerly marked the 
entrance to a temple. The first, made of granite, lies pros- 
trate ; its length with the crown, which has fallen off, is 
over 30 ft. The second colossus is of limestone, 42 ft. high ; 
it stands in an enclosure (4 pt. is charged to enter, unless 
one has a general pass). The foundations of the temple of 
Ptah can be seen a little to the north. 

From this point it is about an hour's ride to the Step 
Pyramid. This is the tomb of King Zoser (third dynasty), 
older than the Gizeh Pyramids ; unlike them, it is built 
in six stages or steps. It is about 200 ft. high. A little to 
the south-west is the Pyramid of Unas, a king of the fifth 
dynasty. The walls of the tomb chamber are covered with 
coloured hieroglyphics which are among the oldest that 
have been found. 

After this, lunch may be taken at Mariette's House, 
Mariette was the famous French Egyptologist who discovered 
tho Apis Tombs m 1851, and afterwards became Director of 
Antiquities to the Egyptian Government (1857-1881). 

A few minutes distant are the tombs of the Apis bulls or 
Serapeum ; there are nearly four hundred yards of vaulted 
subterranean passages with niches at intervals in which are 
the granite sarcophagi of the bulls. Twenty-four of these 
ai'e still in position ; they are cut from a single block of 
granite, and weigh sixty or seventy tons. The following 
extract from Mariette's report on his discovery may ba 
interesting : 

" I confess that when I penetrated for the first time, on 
November 12, 1851. into the Apis vaults, I was so profoundly 
struck with astonishment that the feeling is still fresh in my 
mind, although five years have elapsed since then. Owing 
to some chance which it is difficult to account for, a chamber 
which had been walled up in the thirtieth year of the reign 
of Rameses II. had escaped the notice of the plunderers of 
the vaults, and I was so fortunate as to find it untouched. 
Although 3700 years had elapsed since it was closed, every- 
thing in the chamber se3med to be precisely in its original 

57 E 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 



condition. The finger-marks of the Egyptian who had inserted 
the last stone in the wall built to conceal the doorway were 
still recognisable on the lime. There were also the marks of 
naked feet imprinted on the sand which lay in one corner of 
the tomb chamber. Everything was in its original condition 
in this tomb, where the embalmed remains of the bull had 
lain undisturbed for thirty -seven centuries." 

Besides the Pyramids, of which there are remains of some 
twenty or thirty — many still of a considerable height — there 
are countless tombs and mastabas of the great ones of Mem- 
phis. The most interesting of the latter are, perhaps, the 
Mastabas of Ptahhotep and Ti and the tomb of Mereruka, 

The Mastaba of Ptahhotep is between the Step Pyramid 
and Mariettes house. Ptahhotep was a high official in the 
time of the fifth dynasty. 

The Mastaba of Ti is to the north-east of Mariette's 
house ; it is also of the fifth dynasty. The reliefs on the 
walls of this and the last -mentioned tomb are of extraordinary 
excellence, and although they date from about four thousand 
years before Christ, many of the pictures are wonderfully 
clear and lifelike ; in fact, the work is far better than any- 
thing that Avas produced during the later dynasties. 

The Tomb of Mereruka is of considerable size, and 
contains over thirty rooms. These are divided into three 
parts : the tomb of Mereruka himself ; his w4fe, Hert-Watet- 
Khet ; and their son, Meri-Teti. They date from the sixth 
dynasty, and are covered with reliefs, many of which are 
worth examining. 

THE BARRAGE 

A visit to the Delta Barrage is undoubtedly one of the 
pleasantest excursions from Cairo. The expedition can be 
made most quickly and comfortably by railway ; there are 
plenty of trains from Cairo (main-line station), and the 
journey takes about half an hour. The most convenient times 
are : 

Cairo, depart — 10.45 a.m. and 3.40. 5.25 and 7.55 p.m. 
Barrage, depart— 2.50, 4.40, 6.20, and 9.30 p.m. 
Fares ; 1st class, single, 6 pt. ; return, 8J pt. 
2na ,, ,, 4 ,, ,, Og ,, 

The Tramway Company also run a service of steamers » 

58 




0? 

513 

S3 

a 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 



these are, however, frequently crowded with excursionists. 
A very pleasant private picnic can be arranged by chartering 
for the day a motor-launch from Messrs. E. P. Blattner and 
Co. Telephone No. 443 Cairo. The charge is LE4 per 
day, and the boat holds twelve people comfortably. The 
river trip takes about two hours. 

From the Barrage station there is a trolley line which goes 
through all the gardens and to all the weirs. This is a novel 
and pleasing method of progression: the trolleys hold four 
people (more comfortably two), and are pushed by two 
Arab boys. The fares are : 

Pt, 
From the station to the central canal and back with 

one or two passengers ..... 3 
For each additional passenger . . . . l^ 

From the station over both Barrages to the Rayah 
Behera, to both weirs and back (without stopping), 
one or two passengers ..... 8 

For each additional passenger .... 3 

If a stop of any duration is made the fare is reckoned by 
time. 

Ihr. 3hrs. ^^ 

Day. 

Fares by time : One or two passengers .10 25 40 

Three passengers . .13 30 50 

Four „ . 15 33 60 

The Nile, which formerly entered the sea through seven 
mouths, has now but two — the Damietta and Rosetta 
branches ; these diverge north-east and north-west respec- 
tively, from a point a short distance north of Cairo. Just 
below the point of divergence the barrage is built across 
both branches ; its object is to hold up the level of the water 
in the Nile so as to allow it to enter three great canals — the 
Rayah (canal) Tewfikieh, Rayah Menufieh, and Rayah 
Behira, which commence at this point. They provide water 
for, and allow of navigation to, almost all parts of the Delta. 
The Barrage was one of the great experiments of Mohammed 
Aly. The plans were drawn up by Mougel Bey in 1835 ; it 
took twenty years to build and cost £800,000. On com- 
pletion, however, it was found that the foundations would 
not hold owing to the shifting nature of the soil. The works 
remained — a costlyfailure — until in 1885 strengthening opera - 

60 



CAIRO 

tions were undertaken by Sir Colin Scott Moncrieff , which were 
completed in 1890 at a further cost of £460,000, and have 
been entirely successful. 

The various works are built of a reddish yellow sandstone 
of pleasing colour, and are in Norman style with castellated 
towers at intervals. These, though unusual enough in such 
surroundings, have in the distance a most attractive appear- 
ance against the trees. The triangle of ground formed by 
the two branches of the Nile was once fortified, but has since 
been laid out in gardens. 

The trees and the gardens are the great feature of the 
Barrage : perfect lawns, trees, shrubs, flowers of all kinds, 
a delightful narrow pond passing beneath a wooden bridge 
and covered with water-lilies — all is a most attractive contrast 
to the usual Egyptian scenery. One may well wander all 
day and never tire of it ; and the ordinary Egyptian scenes 
are all the more appreciated for the very contrast. An 
afternoon, a whole day, or a long evening can be spent there, 
as one pleases. Only provisions should be taken ; a lun- 
cheon- plus tea-basket is here, as everywhere in Egypt, the 
real solution of the question. One may choose some charm- 
ing spot in the gardens, under trees, on the open lawn ; or 
in one of the Norman towers, where a room exists for such 
purposes, chairs and tables and an attendant who supplies 
water for the tea, washes up the things, and generally makes 
himself useful — all these things are provided. 

One thing should be remembered — the gardens are far 
cooler than Cairo (perhaps their chief attraction is the ab- 
sence of heat, dust, and glare), and it is apt to be distinctly 
chilly at night. Wraps and coats should be taken, the 
more so as the Barrage is almost at its best after sunset. 



61 



CHAPTER III 



THE FAYOUM 

The province of Fayoum lies to the west of the Nile Valley 
and about fifty miles south of Cairo. It is a most interesting 
province, and a visit will be found well worth the trouble. 

Fast and frequent trains run from Cairo to Wasta in an 
hour and a half ; from Wasta a branch line leads to the 
capital of the province, Medinet-el-Fayoum. The following 
are the best trains : 



Cairo, dep. 
Wasta, arr. 
Wasta, dep. 
Fayoum, arr. 
Fayoum, dep. 
Abchaway, dep. 
Abouxah, arr. . 



A.M. P.M. A M. P.M. 

8.30 5.15 Abouxah, dep. . 6.20 3.40 

9.51 6.36 Abchaway, dep. 6.44 4. 4 

10.20 7.20 Fayoum, arr. . 7.34 4.54 

11.16 8.16 Fayoum, dep. . 8.18 5.34 

11.41 8.39 Wasta, arr. . 9.15 6.30 

12.35 9.30 Wasta, dep. . 9.30 7.14 

9.40 Cairo, arr. . 11. 5 8.45 



second class. 



12.45 

For detailed time-tables, see pages 182, 183 
Fares : Cairo-Fayoum, first class, pt. 59J 
pt. 30. Other fares, see page 195. 

After leaving Wasta the branch line crosses a strip of 
cultivated land, then passes over desert. After a few miles, 
cultivation again appears. The train traverses one or two 
gorges ; these are peculiar to the Fayoum country, which is 
even hilly in parts — a curious contrast to the rest of Egvpt. 

Medinet-ei-Fayoum is the capital, twenty-three miles from 
Wasta. As it is a railway centre, it makes quite the best 
base from which to explore the country. Two branch lines 
diverge, one to Abouxah, passing near the Lake Karoun, 
and the other northwards to Sennoures. Medina is also the 
centre of a network of light railways which find their way to 
every part of the province. 

The best hotel at Medina is the Karoun Hotel ; it is clean 
and not uncomfortable for a short stay. For particulars, 
see page 162. 

62 




Ou the Bcihr-el-Yussuf Canal 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

The Fayoum is radically different from all the rest o: 
Egypt ; it is practically an artificial pro^ance — neither more 
nor less — brought into being by the Bahr-el-Yussuf some four 
thousand years ago. This " River of Joseph " (probably it 
existed a thousand years before his day) flows westward 
from the Nile, and divides into many little canals that water 
the whole country and ensure its unusual fertility — for it is 
unusually fertile. Roses, apricots, figs, grapes, olives, corn, 
cotton, and man}^ another fruit or crop, all are plentiful, and 
some superior to what we find in the rest of Egypt. Even 
the sheep and fowls are fat and well -liking. 

To the north, east and south are the hills which separate 
the Fayoum from Egypt and the Libyan Desert. To the 
north-west is Lake Moeris (Birket-el-Karoun). This was 
the glory of the province, the home of the sacred crocodiles 
worshipped by the dwellers in Arsinoe. Arsinoe, like Ombos, 
had its Tentyris — the city of Heracleopolis whose citizens 
worshipped the Ichneumon. There was also the Labjrrinth, 
a marvel to Herodotus. 

Lake Moeris was probably partly artificial ; it was, in fact, 
a a^reat reservoir that supplied water to all the land lying 
north of it. King Amenemhet III. (twelfth d3niasty) seems 
to have been the first to put it to this use ; he built a regu- 
lator and other irrigation works, of which remains are still 
to be seen at Lahoun. Incidentally it harboured the sacred 
crocodiles, and also — as nowadays — a quantity of fish. 

Arsinoe is a mere heap of debris, haunted by the kite and 
the jackal alone — that great city where Sebek, the crocodile 
god, was worshipped. Many kinds of fish, too, seem to have 
been sacred. The priests probably combined this sacred 
fish culture with practical irrigation, and induced the people 
on religious grounds to maintain the waterways which were 
actually to serve the crops. The principle of the widespread 
utility of Lake Moeris was that the Nile, when high, flowed 
into it. As the Nile flood receded the surplus water in the 
lake returned to the river through the various exits and 
sluices, and repaid its debt. 

The modern town of Medinet-el- Fayoum is interesting. 
The broad Bahr-el-Yussuf flows through it from end to end, 
bridged here and there, and with streets on either bank. 
The water-wheels are here (and nowhere else in Egypt) 
worked by the current itself. Arsinoe is to the north. 

64 



THE FAYOUM 



THE LABYRINTH AND LAHOUN 

The " Labyrinth " and the Pyramid of Hawara are the 
next objects of attraction, some six or seven miles away. 
One should procure good donkeys, take a luncheon- and tea- 
basket — this the hotel can arrange — and start early. The 
" Labjrrinth " is dilapidated enough now, but it must have 
been a mighty monument in its time, if we may believe 
Herodotus (and it is singular how often we can), and it must 
have eclipsed all other Egyptian buildings in size and mag- 
nificence. It seems to have been intended as a vast place of 
assembly for the parliament of ancient Egypt, and, according 
to Herodotus, it had twelve courts and three thousand 
chambers, besides many halls, passages, and porticoes. 
Huge single slabs formed the roofs of the chambers ; it had 
great red granite or white limestone — as white as Parian 
marble — monoliths, and many wonderful sculptures describing 
the history, religion, and interests of the province to which 
each court v/as assigned. 

The Pyramid of Hawara is half a mile away to the east ; 
it is the tomb of Amenemhet III., and is attributed to that 
king and his daughter Ptah-Nefert. Many strange and 
splendid relics were discovered therein, especially in the 
vault of Horuta a great noble of the twenty-sixth dynasty. 
These are now in the Cairo Museum. 

Another great monument is the Lahoun Brick Pyramid, 
an hour and a half distant and close to Lahoun village, with 
its temple half a mile away ; this was built by Usertsen 11. , 
also of the twelfth dynasty. And more interesting still are 
the traces of an ancient town of the same period, designed 
and built especially for the men at work on the pyramid and 
temple, with rows of huts and storehouses. Last of all are 
the remains of the old dykes and sluices that regulated the 
exit and entry of the waters of Lake Moeris. One returns by 
the 4.10 P.M. train from Lahoun, to reach Medinet-el-Fayoum 
at 5.20 P.M. 

For full time-tables of the Fayoum Light Railways, see. 
page 188. 

SENNOURES 

The next excursion of interest is to Sennoures. The 
Fayoum Light Railway train leaves Medinet-el-Fayoum at 

65 



P: G Y P T, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

3.40 P.M., and passes through the most fertile and beautiful 
part of the whole province. One can return by the State 
Railway train, or by a donkey. 



LAKE KAROUN 

We have already mentioned Lake Karoun ; but it requires 
a special visit, even a short stay of a day or two. In the 
winter there is a hotel open, under management delegated 
from the Karoun Hotel at Medina ; one should announce 
one's arrival, by telegraph, the day before. 

The station — Abchaway — is under an hour distant from 
Medina ; a train leaves the latter at 11.41 a.m. and arrives at 
12.35 p.m. There are vehicles of sorts in waiting. The drive 
takes about an hour through a country-side pretty enough 
in itself, and past picturesque villages, but all is dwarfed by 
the panorama that reveals a stretch of fertile land, a gradual 
slope, and then the lake — a turquoise streak, silvery, shimmer- 
ing, under a pale luminous sky ; beyond, the hills frame it, 
pale rose and following one another, ramparts between desert 
and Avater. The pale green, blue, rose, blend in a perfection 
of vivid and intense colour. 

The hotel is quaintly suited to its surroundings. There is 
a row of roomy, square tents ranged on a stone platform 
beside a stream that flows into the lake. The wind whispers 
and rustles in the reeds that fringe the water. One would 
expect that a tent on a stone flooring, close to the water-side, 
would prove a cold sleeping-place ; but it is quite comfort- 
able, and indeed all the arrangements are good. The food 
is not that of the great hotels, but it is by no means to be 
despised. There are plenty of boats of various kinds, rowing 
and sailing, that belong to the hotel. 

The lake has still a fine extent of water, some eight miles 
broad by thirty-five long, and one sees flamingoes and pelicans 
in the distance, and quantities of duck and other water-fowl, 
not always easy of approach. On the desert shore are jackals 
and hyenas, though these are seldom seen. On the far side 
of the lake are the ruins of Dima, apparently a Ptolemaic 
town of some importance. One may also go to the Kasr 
Karoun, where are ruins of an Egyptian and of a small 
Roman temple ; it is some three hours' sail westward from 
the hotel. But perhaps these ruins will interest few save 

GO 





At Abclaaway 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

keen Egyptologists. One may surely be forgiven for pre- 
ferring to spend lazy hours on the lake itself ; its charm and 
restfulness are a perfect antidote to the fever of the restless 
pleasure-distraught Cairo life. The return drive to the 
station is uphill, and one must allow an hour and a half : 
the hotel ponies have been known to jib, and at any rate 
they are likelv to be slow at the ascent. The best available 
train leaves Abchaway at4.4 p.m. and reaches Medina at 4.54 ; 
then goes on to Wasta. arriving there at 6.30 in time for the 
north- and south-bound expresses. 




On the Lake Karoun 



68 



Evenino- on the Nile 



CHAPTER IV 



UPPER EGYPT 

The name " Upper Egypt " is applied to the country south 
of Cairo as far as the Soudan frontier — near Wadi-Halfa. 
Sometimes the name Middle Egypt is used for the stretch 
between Cairo and Assiout, south of which is Upper Egypt 
proper. 

Above all things, those who visit this country, even if 
only for a short time, should see Luxor and Assouan — 
ideally dry, warm and healthy, set in fine rugged hill scenery, 
the home of monuments as wonderful as any the world 
possesses ; they should be the principal goal of all travellers 
in the " Land of Khem." 

The time-honoured highway is, of course, the Nile. Tourist 
steamers (for which, see page 203) pass up and down fre- 
quently ; wealthy visitors may hire a private sailing, or, 
better still, a steam dahabeah (or house-boat), but the rail- 
way has been so greatly improved lately as to be acknow- 
ledged the most comfortable and convenient route. The river 
journey has, of course, its pleasures and even luxuries, but it 
can become tedious, and steamers are sometimes over- 
crowded. 

69 



E G Y P T, A N D HOW TO SEE IT 

The train is a fast and luxurious substitute. Every night 
through the season the trains de luxe run between Cairo 
and Luxor ; they are made up of dining- and sleeping-cars, 
and only carry first-class passengers. These trains are really 
as excellent as any in the world ; they do not tear along and 
shake the life out of the luckless passengers as do the vaunted 
Riviera " flyers." The cars cannot be surpassed. They 
have a double roof to preserve an even temperature, double 
windows that keep out dust and cinders ; and, of course, 
electric fans, ice, and any and everything one can wish for is 
carried. Their great length and width ensures steady and 
smooth running, so that one can sleep well all through the 
journey. 

The trains from Cairo and Luxor respectively leave at 
6.30 P.M., and dinner (price 25 pt.) is served at 7.30 p.m. 
At the beginning and end of the season the " Trains de Luxe " 
do not run, and a sleeping- and dining-car are put on to the 
8 P.M. from Cairo and the 5.30 p.m. from Luxor, three times 
a week, in each direction. 

It IS as well to secure berths through the Wagons -Lits 
Company's offices in Cairo and the principal stations, or 
through the tourist agencies. 

Those who wish to get some impression of the country, 
and who do not mind a long journey by day, can leave Cairo 
at 8.30 A.M., or Luxor at 7.0 a.m., and they will reach their 
destination the same evening. They should, however, take 
a luncheon- basket with them. 

The best months are from November to March, before and 
after which periods the heat is rather too much for many 
people. But if one cares to brave it, and owing to the purity 
and dryness of the air it is not really so very trying, one 
should go south in October ; then Egypt presents her greatest 
wonder, for the " Nile overfloweth all his banks," and the 
world is one vast sheet of water from the railway to the hills. 
The sunset fires it to a marvel of flame that fades to deep 
red, then rose, at last steely black under the starlight. 
Here and there a causeway cleaves the flood, a village 
stands out, a group of palm-trees rise. The desert hills take 
wonderful colours under the changing light. 

People who know no Arabic will probably need a dragoman 
or guide. It is, perhaps, best to engage one on the spot, and 
not to take men from Cairo. The local guides know their 
work and their monuments much better ; besides, a strange 

70 



UPPER EGYPT 



guide cannot even secure good donkeys, and is often at a 
disadvantage. 



NOTICE 

Those who wish to see the monuments and antiquities in 
Upper Egypt must obtain before starting south an Anti- 
quity Ticket, price 120 pt. They can be obtained from the 
Cairo Museum, the Antiquity Inspector at Luxor, or from 
Messrs. Cook and Sons. 

We would venture to add one word as to the treatment of 
guides, donkey-boys, and such jieople in general. They have 
often an engaging enough manner, and if this is unduly 
encouraged they are inclined to take far too much liberty, 
besides which it is most demoralising to themselves. One 
may show all possible courtesy and consideration to them 
without thereby exciting the familiarity which is at times 
rather a deplorable feature of this class. 

BAKSHISH: IMPORTANT NOTICE 

The following notice has been issued : 

'■' The attention of the Egyptian authorities has been 
frequently drawn, both by visitors and by residents in the 
country, to the evils resulting from the indiscriminate bestowal 
of bakshish to the inhabitants of ihe Nile villages and other 
places visited by tourists during the winter season. The 
intention of the donors is no doubt kindly, but the practice 
— more especially in view of the yearly increase of visitors 
to Egypt — cannot fail to be detrimental to the moral sense 
and the social well-being of the poorer classes of the com- 
munity. At the present time many of the poorer inhabitants 
of those towns on the Nile which are most visited by tourists 
live almost entirely on what they can obtain by bakshish 
during the winter months. The easy means thus offered 
of obtaining a small livelihood prevents their adopting any 
form of labour, and children are brought up to regard the 
tourist season as the period during which they may, by 
clamorous begging, enable their parents and themselves to 
lead a life of idleness for the remainder of the year. The 
unhealthy tendency of such a system is obvious. 

" On the other hand, from the point of view of the Nile 
travellers themselves, the inconveniences of this universal 

71 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 



mendicity are equally obvious, and, as time goes on, cannot 
fail to increase, unless some means are adopted for checking 
the practice. 

" It would be extremely difficult for the Government to 
devise an effective remedy for this state of things. The real 
remedy rests with the travellers themselves. If money 
were, in future, only bestowed in return for some actual 
service rendered, or in case of evident and established dis- 
tress, the present pernicious habit of begging would soon die 
out, to the advantage both of the people and of the visitors. 
"It is with this conviction that we venture to express a 
hope that our fellow countrymen, when travelling in Egypt, 
will lend their aid to this important reform by abstaining 
from the distribution of money in response to mere demands 
for bakshish, bestowing it only when the circumstances 
appear to them to warrant their generosity. 

" Tourists should especially abstain from throwing money 
from the decks of the steamers to the landing-stages or on 
to the banks of the Nile for the purpose of witnessing the 
scramble for the coins ; such exhibitions are mischievous 
as well as degrading. 

" (Signed) Cromer, H.B.M.'s Minister- 
Plenipotentiary, Agent and 
Consul- General. 
" RucKER Jenisch, Minister - 
Plenipotentiary, Agent and 
Consul- General for Germany. 
"J. W. Riddle, Agent and 
Consul-General for America.'' 

The shops in Upper Egypt are, as a rule, primitive, and it 
is as well to take what one requires from Cairo. There are a 
few shops — chemists, photograph shops, and suchlike, but 
very little else in the way of European necessities is to be 
found. As to clothes, one snould take thick things as well 
as thin ; there are occasional cold days, and almost always 
cold nights. It rains very seldom, but once in a way it does 
rain, and a waterproof or umbrella may be found most useful, 
even at Assouan, between November and March. A sun- 
helmet is really seldom necessary ; a straw hat, or at most a 
terai or felt hat, is quite sufficient. The glare in the desert is 
occasionally trying, and some visitors may find smoked glasses 
comforting. 

72 



UPPER EGYPT 



The principal trains are as follows : 

Cairo, dep., 8.30 a.m., 6.30 p.m., 8.0 p.m. 

Luxor, arr. : 10.40 p.m., 8.35 a.m., 9.30 a.m. 

Luxor, dep. : 10.30 a.m. 

Assouan, arr. : 5 p.m. 

Assouan, dep. : 10.15 am. 

Luxor, arr. : 4.45 p.m. 

Luxor, dep. : 7.0 a.m., 5.30 p.m., 6.30 p.m. 

Cairo, arr. : 8.45 p.m., 7.5 a.m., 8.0 a.m. 

The 6.30 p.m. trains from Cairo and Luxor are the trains 
de luxe. Detailed time-tables will be found on page 116 et seq. 

Fares — 1st class : Cairo to Luxor, 206 pt. 
2nd „ „ „ 103 „ 

1st class : Cairo to Assouan, 258J pt. 
2nd „ „ „ 129 „ 

Train de luxe : 1st class fare plus 100 pt. supplement. 
Other fares are given on page 195. 

CAIRO TO LUXOR BY RAIL 

The train passes Embabeh — from whose bridge there is a fine 
view of the Nile — then Boulac - Dacrour, and Gizeh of the 
Pyramids. Boulac -Dacrour is a large goods station where all 
the north- and south-bound trains are sorted. Then Bedrechein, 
the station for the Sakkarah Pjrramids. 

Ayat (kilo. 59) is a great resort of snipe and duck. The 
Pyramid of Lisht is on the right-hand side. 

The Pyramid of Meidoun — a monument of some interest — 
is near Rekkah (kilo. 83). 

Wasta (kilo. 92 — 1 hour 21 minutes from Cairo) is the 
junction for the Fayoum trains. 

The Fayoum may be visited specially from Cairo, or on 
the way to or from Luxor {see page 62). After Wasta the 
train passes over a long steel bridge that during most of the 
year seems useless enough, but when the water is passing 
from the basins its value appears. 

Beni-Souef (kilo. 124) is a cotton centre and the capital 
of the Beni-Souef Moudirieh, but has otherwise no special 
interest. 

For the next 260 kilometres the railway parallels the 

73 F 



E G Y P T, AND H C) W TO SEE IT 



Ibrahimieh Canal, whose boats, toiling up or drifting down 
stream, are picturesque enough. 

From Bibeh (kilo. 145) one may visit Deshashah — the ride 
takes about tAVO and a half hours — and see some interesting 
fifth-dynasty tombs. After Bibeh the aspect of the country 
changes, the colours are clearer and richer, and cotton begins 
to give place to cereals and sugar-cane. 

Minieh (kilo. 248) is a large to^MCi, but nothing more. 

Abou-Kerkas (kilo. 268) is the starting-point for the rock 
tombs of Beni- Hassan. 

TOMBS OF BENI-HASSAN 

The journey from Abou-Kerkas station to the rock tombs 
takes about two hours. The station-master will procure 
donkeys, but it is as well to give him notice beforehand by 
telegram. The price for donkeys is from 10 pt. to 15 pt. 
for the day. The charge on the Nile ferry-boat is ^ pt. 
each, but a little extra must be given for the donkeys ; the 
donkey-boys will also expect a piastre or two as bakshish. 

The river, which is crossed in the usual Nile ferry-boat, is 
about half an hour away, and after leaving the modern Beni- 
Hassan village one passes along the edge of the desert, 
striking sharply uphill and arriving at length at a rocky 
terrace. Cut into the hillside can be seen the entrances to 
the thirty -nine tombs, a long line of doorways facing the 
river. These are in varying degrees of preservation. Numbers 
2, 3, 15, 17 are in a good enough state, and are of considerable 
interest. They were probably excavated in the time of the 
Usertsens of the twelfth dynasty, and they are covered with 
wall paintings that give, with vivid accuracy, the life of 
4500 years ago. There are men and women in all their daily 
pursuits, fishing, hunting, weaving, and even at dinner — 
the succession of the common dayhght occupations and 
interests, concessions to the needs of humanity and its 
amusements. A strange race these Egyptians, who could 
write their history, their theology, and even their diary on 
the walls of a catacomb. Their tombs are catalogues of 
life, and their palaces instinct with the presence and threat 
of death. 

If the visitor has the energy to climb the slope at the 
back of the tombs — it need not take more than ten minutes 
— he will see in front the splendid range of Nile and green 
valley, and behind the arid desert, rolling, limitless. 

74 



UPPER EGYPT 



The Speos Artemidos can be seen on the homeward route ; 
it is known locally as the Stabl-Antar. Antar was a famous 
preTslamic poet and hero, the son of a sheikh and a slave- 
woman, who by his valour saved his tribe from their 
enemies, and was in reward given the hand of the tribal 
chieftain's daughter. The Speos, or cave, was actually 





At Abou-Kerkas 

excavated by Queen Hachopsonitou, and carried on by 
Thothmes III. and Seti, father of the great Rameses, but 
never finished. It is dedicated as a temple to the local cat 
goddess, Pasht. The graveyard of the sacred cats is close by. 

Near Rodah (kilo. 287) are the ruins of Hermopolis and 
Antinoopolis, but they are hardly worth visiting. Dair-Moes 
(kilo. 306) is the station for Tel-el-Amarna, the capital ol 
ikmenhotep IV. 

TEL-EL-AMARNA 

Tel-el-Amarna is about two hours from the station. Donkeys 
for the excursion can be obtained through the station-master, 
the charge being about ten to fifteen piastres each per day. 
The river must be crossed by ferry-boat. 

Amenhotep IV. (eighteenth dynasty) made what appears 

75 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

to have been the only attempt to escape from the influence 
of the all-powerful Theban priesthood of Amen-Ra. He 
preferred the worship of a single deity (the sun) to the 
polytheism of his predecessors, changed his name to Khu- 
enaten, " The Splendour of the Sun," and obliterated the name 
of Amen-Ra from the walls of his sanctuaries. The priests 
appear, however, to have been too powerful for him, and he 
found it impossible to live at Thebes. 

A site for a new capital was chosen at a point half-way 
between Memphis and Thebes. The famous architect Bek, 
son of Men, was employed to build a magnificent royal city, 
adorned with splendid temples, and containing a palace for 
the king. This city was called Ekhut-Aten — " The Horizon 
of the Sun.' 

Besides being a religious reformer, the king appears to 
have encouraged the advance of art. Under his patronage 
the enlightened Bek produced some exceedingly fine work, 
of which an example is preserved in the beautiful stucco 
pavements which formed part of the king's palace, and which 
can still be seen. 

A number of very interesting cuneiform tablets were found 
in 1887, being despatches to Amenhotep IV. from the rulers 
of Mesopotamia and other Asiatic countries. These show 
that the king's other interests had so monopolised him 
that he was neglecting the affairs of the empire. 

Amenhotep passed the remainder of his life C{uietly at the 
new capital with his mother and wdfe and his seven daughters. 
Soon after his death his successors returned to Thebes and 
the thraldom of Amen ; the " City of the Sun " w^as allowed 
to fall into ruins, and art into its former convention. 

Assiout (kilo. 378) is the largest city in Upper Egypt, largely 
inhabited i)y Copts. 

The trains stop here for five minutes. The station has 
a good buffet. 

ASSIOUT 

A town of white minarets, white and grey houses, and 
many palm-trees, right under a big bluff of scarred, sandy 
hill, it stands clear and clean against the plain, fortified from 
the autumn flood by low mud bastions. 

There are fairly broad roads past fine houses and gardens, 
leading then to winding, narrow streets. Many of these are 

76 




street Scene at Assiout 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 



covered in and populous with sellers of Assiout shawls, red 
slippers, and red and black pottery — vases and cups of rather 
formal design, animals, monkeys, camels, lizards, quaintly 
moulded and whimsical of expression. 

The barrage is about a mile away — a long, plain, solid 
succession of arches — and the Nile stretches blue-grey above 

and below it. Here, too, 
are gardens, made and in 
preparation, with delightful 
weeping - willows. King- 
fishers, hoopoes, and water- 
wagtails hop about and flit 
to and fro under the brilliant 
sunlight. 

Assiout is still rather 
primitive, perhaps, but it 
has one small hotel — the 
New Hotel — close to the 
station, which is certainly 
much cleaner than most of 
its kind. One may well 
spend tAvo or three days 
there. There is a certain 
cleanliness and quiet, too, 
about the town, an absence 
of noise or crowd, a dis- 
tinct picturesque placidity 
that makes the best of the 
clear air and the sun. 




k 




'\,m -tnirsm •- ^j>ajKnaiia?»«.iOtwBM<ai*> 



On the Canal, Beni-Korra 



The country to the south 
of Assiout is wholly subject 
to " basin irrigation " ; the 
land is divided up by banks of earth into basins several 
miles across. In the autumn, when the Nile is in flood, the 
basins are filled, the water is allowed to stand for a month 
or six weeks, and then it flows back to the river or into 
another basin at a lower level. 

For this reason it will be noticed that the villages are built 
on mounds and stand up a few feet above the fields. 

Sohag (kilo. 470) is the next place of importance. This is 
the Mudirieh town, or capital, of Guergueh province. It 

78 



UPPER EGYPT 



can claim some attention owing to the proximity of the two 
great Coptic monasteries, the White and the Red. These 
once magnificent buildings suffered repeatedly at the hands 
of the Mamelukes. They are now being slowly and carefully 
repaired. They are situated on the desert edge. 

Sohag itself has only one feature — the river-front. A long 
line of dw^elling-houses faces the Nile, and the road is shaded 
by lebbek -trees. The soft, peaceful, changing lights on the 
water, the boats passing lazily up and down, the distant 
fertile shore, and the hills that bound the view, form a most 
characteristic picture. In the immediate foreground are the 
women scrambling up and down the bank, washing clothes, 
fetching water, and chattering all the time. 

Guergueh (kilo. 504) is a large town. There is a very old 
Roman Catholic convent here, and across the river are the 
remains of a temple of Rameses the Great. 

El-Birbeh, a little to the north of Guergueh, is supposed to 
be the site of This, or Thinis, the seat of the earliest of all 
the dynasties — the first and second. In the hills on the 
left can be seen the rock tombs of the Thinite notables. 

Baliana (kilo. 521) is the station for the temples of Abydos. 
For this expedition donkeys can be engaged at the station ; 
the charge is 10 pt. per day. 

ABYDOS 

Abydos is some six or seven miles from Baliana station. 
The route is uninterrupted, over the rich plain, along the 
high causeway — the one path from river to desert edge 
when the floods are out. Abydos has one of the most impor- 
tant and interesting of all the temples in Egypt. It was 
built by Seti I., the father of Rameses the Great, and the 
bas-reliefs and paintings are as wonderful as any in Egypt, 
carried out with the greatest skill and exactitude. They 
are, as in the art of that period, conventional and devoted 
to elaborate and minute detail, but the thoroughness of the 
work distinguishes it from almost all that of other epochs. 

The important feature of this temple is the Tablet of the 
Kings. It shows Seti, the king, and Rameses, the prince, 
offering the sacred fire and reading the hymn ; and then 
follow the cartouches of seventy-six of the most noted kings 
of Egypt, from Menes to Seti — a great and valuable record 
for Egyptologists. 

79 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 



The other temple, built by Rameses 11. , is not in anything 
like the same state of preservation ; only a part of the outer 
walls and a few statue-columns remain. There was here a 
second tablet, copied from that of Seti's temple, and now 
removed to the British Museum ; but, unlike the original, 
it is mutilated. Hard by, to the north, is the tomb of Osiris, 
and a mound of debris formed by the countless tombs of 
ancient Egyptians w^ho sought to be buried near Osiris. So 
does Abydos represent at once the birth of Egypt and its 
greatest period ; and, more, it holds the historical record 
of all the greatest who reigned, from Osiris and Menes even 
to the days of Seti and Rameses — a great and ancient monu- 
ment indeed. 

Nag-Hamadi (kilo. 556) is the centre of a large sugar 
district, and the factory is a model of the most modern 
requirements of that industry. 

Just beyond Nag-Hamadi the railway crosses the Nile, 
and keeps to the east bank from this point onwards. The 
hills begin to close in towards the river, and culminate near 
Dabbeh in the huge sheer cliff of Gabel-el-Tarif (left-hand side). 

Keneh (kilo. 611) is the home of the potters, the source of 
the porous jars and bottles of fascinating shapes which one 
sees all over Egypt. Water in them cools naturally and 
automatically. It is rather interesting to see the native 
potter turning the primitive wheel with his foot ; the shape- 
less clay rises to his touch and takes its appointed form. 
Many of the houses in the town have their walls built of the 
spoiled jars, which gives them a curious appearance. 

Keneh is the starting-point for the expedition to the temple 
of Hathor at Dendera. 

DENDERA 

Dendera is some five miles — about an hour's donkey ride — 
from Keneh. Its chief feature is its modernity. The Temple is 
of the late .Ptolemaic period. One perceives at once a tendency 
to depart from the rather grim convention ; the figures on 
the walls are more lifelike, their faces more expressive, and 
the great crowning heads of Hathor on the pillars are really 
beautiful and impressive in themselves. Evidently those 
who designed the temple and its decorations were thinking 
of Greek philosophy as well as of Egyptian mythology. 

80 




B 

eg 

w 

fcr 

z 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

There are many astronomical symbols, and, above all, there 
is the painted zodiac on the ceiling, and the strange recum- 
bent figure encircling three sides of it. 

Sonnini, that same traveller who expatiated on Rosetta, 
was so struck by Dendera as to give no less than five draw- 
ings of different figures. He speaks of undoubted Greek 
influence — the bundles of plants in the hands of the members 
of the Hathor procession, unusual in Egyptology, rather 
suggesting Etruscan vases ; and he is struck by the fleur-de- 
lis and sceptre or truncheon. The temple is certainly unusual, 
and happily it is in excellent preservation, though w^e are 
told that the fellaheen actually built a village on the top of 
it, and, further, that some of the Mameluke's troops were 
in the habit of using the temple at large as a target. 

For all the attraction and even beauty of the frescoes and 
sculpture, one can hardly form a fair impression from inside. 
Those huge pillars, crowded together, the narrow way between 
them, the darkness, all give an air of constraint, and not 
of positive size. It is the roof that reveals the size and 
height of the temple ; and there, too, is the glorious view 
over fields and river, and the high sequence of hills behind 
in whose shadow the House of Hathor dominated the plain. 

Tentyris, or Tentyra, an ancient town from which the 
temple takes its name, was the centre of the crocodile feud. 
The inhabitants of Tentyra seem to have had a great aversion 
to crocodiles, and were expert at hunting and killing them ; 
hence the constant fights with the crocodile worshippers of 
Ombos, or Kom Ombo. 

The cost of the journey is slight enough ; five or six piastres 
a head usually covers the hire of donkeys and the ferry. 
Perhaps another piastre or two may be given as bakshish if 
the donkey-boys have been decently helpful and quiet. To do 
them justice, they are generally well-conducted in these parts. 

Near Kous (kilo. 643) there are some fine views of the 
river on the right-hand side. 

In half an hour the train reaches Luxor — 673 kilometres 
(420 miles) from Cairo. 

LUXOR 

On arrival the trains are met by the porters of the various 
hotels, and outside, omnibuses and cabs are waiting. 

82 



UPPER EGYPT 



There are several hotels to choose from. 

The Winter Palace, a large new hotel which was only 
opened at the beginning of 1907, is undoubtedly the best. 
It is most comfortable, and compares very favourably with 
the best Cairo hotels. It is well designed ; the rooms are 
large, airy, and well furnished ; there is electric light, a lift, 
and many private suites of rooms ; the management is 




Hills at Dcabbeh 



excellent. A little way from the village of Luxor, the 
Winter Palace overlooks the Nile, of which delightful vieAvs 
are obtained from the terrace in front. 

The Luxor Hotel is smaller and older, but quite comfort- 
able. It stands in a very pretty garden, with shady walks, 
and has also a tennis court. 

Other hotels are the Karnak, Grand, and Savoy. There 
is also a pension called the Grande Pension de Famille. 
Full particulars of the hotels will be found on page 162. 

The village of Luxor is much like other native villages, and 
not worth wasting time over. There are several antiquity 
dealers, whose wares should always be purchased with caution, 

83 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

as the manufacture of antiquities has become a fine art at 
Luxor. Many shops display photographs of the neighbour- 
hood, and will also develop and print from amateurs' films 
if desired. 

There is an English church in the grounds of the Luxor 




At Assirat 



Hotel, where services are held regularly by a resident chap- 
lain. 

ANCIENT THEBES 

Modern Luxor occupies the site of the eastern suburb of 
ancient Thebes. This city was perhaps the most important 
of all ancient Egyptian towns. It was built on the right 
bank of the Nile, but the rocky hills on the western side were 
used as a necropolis, and the kings and nobles bui t them- 
selves temples there, which became the centres of small 
towns. 

The rise of Thebes appears to date from the eleventh 
dynasty, \vhen its princes usurped the control of Upper 
Egypt and increased in power until Amenemhet I. united 

84 



UPPER EGYPT 



the upper and lower country under one monarchy and 
founded the twelfth dynasty. The thirteenth, fourteenth, 
fifteenth, sixteenth, and part of the seventeenth dynasty 
apparently only ruled in the north, while the descendants 
of the old Theban princes continued in power at Thebes. 




Kuins at Thebes 



During the eighteenth, nineteenth, and twentieth dj^'nasties 
Thebes was again of the first importance, and its kings 
devoted much of their energies to building temples and 
other great works. It was apparently the capital of all 
Egypt at this time, except during the reign of Amenhotep IV., 
who started the sun-worship heresy and changed his capi- 
tal to Tel-el- Amarna. After the twentieth dynasty Thebes 
gradually declined, although many kings, right down to the 
time of the Ptolemies, made spasmodic efforts at building. 

Monuments and Antiquities of Luxor. — Three days at 
least are required to see the most interesting of the temples 
and tombs, but a week or more can be very pleasantly spent 
here, and many people stay the whole winter, so as to make 
the most of the warm, dry climate. 

85 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

It is best to engage a guide for the temples and tombs. 
There are quite a number of rehable men, and the selection 
can be made through the hotel. The charge is from 20 pt. 
to 30 pt. per day ; arrangements can be made for longer 
periods. 

There are excellent donkeys for hire. The best course is 
to select one and keep it throughout one's stay. The charge 
per day is 10 pt., but the donkey-boy will expect a piastre or 
two bakshish. 

Thebes — East Bank. — On the near or east side of the river 
there are two places of special interest — the temple of Luxor, 
in the tillage, two minutes' walk from the hotels, and Karnak, 
about a mile and a half to the north. 



THE TEMPLE OF LUXOR 

The temple of Luxor was built by several successive kings 
at different periods, and dedicated to Amen and his wife 
and son — Mut and Khons. The principal builders were 
Amenhotep III. of the eighteenth, and Rameses 11. of the 
nineteenth dynasties. The former built the temple proper, 
and the latter added the court and pylon on the north. The 
great colonnade was built under Harmhabi. The original 
entrance to the temple was through the centre of the north 
pylon. On either side is a colossal seated statue of Rameses. 
In front of these were two obelisks of red granite ; one of 
them is still in its place, but the other has been removed 
and erected in the Place de la Concorde in Paris. On the 
walls of the pylon are reliefs representing Rameses defeating 
the Khita (Hittites) at Kadesh. 

Beyond the pylon is the great court of Rameses II. ; 
this was surrounded by a double row of columns. In the 
north-west corner, near the pylon, is a small temple built by 
Thothmes III., earlier than the great temple inside which 
it stands. On the south-west wall of this court is a repre- 
sentation of the temple of Luxor as it appeared in its day 
— a most interesting memorial. To the south is a lofty 
colonnade of fourteen columns with calyx capitals in two 
rows. These columns are over forty feet high, and give a 
most impressive aspect to the whole structure, seen from 
the river. 

Beyond is the hypostyle hall, containing thirty-two papyrus 

86 



UPPER EGYPT 



columns in rows of eight. Many of these are exceedingly 
well preserved, and on the under sides of the capitals a good 
deal of the original colouring remains, still brilliant, testi- 
fying to the wonderful lasting power of the colours used by 
the Egyptians, and giving some idea of the gorgeous appear- 
ance these old temples must have presented when every 
inch of column, wall, and ceiling was covered with highly 
coloured sculptures of gods and kings. 

To the south of the hall of columns are several smaller 
chambers ; and in the centre of these was the sanctuary of 
the god. 

Several of the other rooms are interesting, especialy one 
called the " Birth Chamber." Its walls bear reliefs depicting 
the birth of Amenhotep III. Another chamber, adapted 
apparently by Alexander, son of Alexander the Great, has 
reliefs of its builder worshipping Amen ; another shows signs 
of having been used as an early Christian church. 

In the days of Thebes' greatness a broad road led from 
the north pylon of the temple of Luxor to the great temple 
of Karnak, lined throughout its length — over a mile and a 
half — on either side with sphinxes. To-day but a few traces 
of it remain. The scant extent uncovered near Karnak 
suggests its ancient magnificence. 



THE TEMPLES OF KARNAK 

There is a good road from Luxor, and carriages can be 
taken. The excursion may also be made on donkeys (price 
5 pt.). 

Besides the great temple of Amen, there are at Karnak 
several smaller temples, of which those of Mut and Khons 
are the most important. First the immense archway of 
Euergetes is seen in the distance, and the road passes between 
rows of sphinxes, and then appears the temple of Khons, 
fronted by its pylon. This temple was erected by Rameses 
III. and his successors to the honour of the Theban moon- 
god Khons, son of Amen and Mut. 

It consists of the usual colonnade court, hypostyle hall, 
and sanctuary. Parts are well preserved, and the inscrip- 
tions are interesting. To the left is the small temple of 
the goddess Apet and of Osiris, which is worth examining. 

Two hundred yards to the north is the great temple of 

87 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

Amen, the " Throne of the World,"' as it was called — by far 
the most magnificent of any of the remains of Egypt's former 
grandeur. 

No one builder is responsible for the temple, but almost 
every king of any note from the twelfth d3niasty to the 
Ptolemies had a hand in its construction. 

In front, forming the entrance to the temple, is the great 
pylon, a gigantic structure nearly 150 ft. high and 350 
broad. A magnificent view of all the ruins can be seen 
from the top, which is easily reached from the left-hand 
side. In front stretches the great court of the temple, 
covering an area of over two acres, and once surrounded by 
columns. In the centre stood a colonnade, now in ruins, 
but one single perfect column remains, with graceful calyx 
capital, 70 ft. in height. Beyond the court one gets a glimpse, 
through the ruined second pylon, of the huge columns of the 
hypostyle hall. The more distant ruins appear confused ; 
above them towers, a hundred feet into the air, the red- 
granite obelisk of Queen Hatasu. 

There appears to have been a temple at Karnak dating 
from the Middle Empire, but it remained comparatively in- 
significant until the eighteenth dynasty. Thothmes I. built 
two pylons — the fourth and fifth, counting from the west. 
Queen Hatasu erected two obelisks, one of which has been 
mentioned ; the other lies on the ground, broken. Her 
brother, Thothmes III., built a separate temple to the east, 
and surrounded the whole with a wall. The third pylon is 
attributed to Amenhotep III. 

During the nineteenth dynasty Rameses I. built the 
second pylon, and between this and the third his successors 
Seti I. and Rameses III. built the great hypostyle hall. 

Seti II. and Rameses III. built separate temples to the 
west of the main building. Nothing more was achieved 
until the Bubastide kings of the twenty-second dynasty built 
the great court which joined the temples of Seti II. and 
Rameses III. to the earlier edifice. Finally the great pylon 
was added by the Ptolemies. Thus the whole temple must 
have been over fifteen hundred years in the building. All 
the kings who had a hand in it left a record of their con- 
quests and other deeds on its walls. Many of these are well 
pieserved and exceedingly interesting. 

On the outside of the south wall of the hall of columns is 
a very interesting relief recording the victories of Shishak, 

88 



UPPER EGYPT 



of the twenty -second dynasty, in Palestine. He it was who 
defeated Rehoboam and spoiled Jerusalem and Solomon's 
temple. The following is the passage in Scripture (1 Kings 
xiv. 25-26) : 




The Archway of Euerg-etes, Karnak 

" And it came to pass in the fifth year of King Rehoboam 
that Shishak, King of Egypt, came up against Jerusalem. 
And he took away the treasures of the House of the Lord, 
and the treasures of the king's house ; he even took away 
all : and he took away all the shields of gold which Solomon 
had made." 

Deciphered from a stele found at Karnak is the following 
address by the god Amen to King Thothmes III. : 

" I come, I grant unto thee to overwhelm the princes of 
Zahi : T throw them beneath thy feet through all their 
borders. I show unto them thy majesty, as of the Lord of 
Light, when thou shinest above their heads even as mine 
image. 

89 G 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

" I come, I grant unto thee to overwhelm the peoples of 
Asia, to lead into captivity the kings of the Rotonou. I 
show imto them thy majesty when thou art clad in thine 
armour, when thou holdest the spear in the chariot. 

" I come, I grant unto thee to overwhelm the land of the 
East : Hafti and Osi shall tremble before thee. I show unto 
them thy majesty, as it were a young bull, great of heart, 
horned, whom none can resist. 

" I come, I grant unto thee to overwhelm the people who 
dwell in their harbours : the lands of Mutanou tremble 
before thee. I show unto them thy majesty, as it were the 
River Horse, Lord of Fear on the waters, whom none may 
approach. 

" I come, I grant unto thee to overwhelm the peoples who 
dwell in their islands : they that dwell in the heart of the sea 
shall hearken to thy shouting. I show unto them thy 
majesty, as it were an avenger who standeth upon the back 
of his victim. 

" I come, I grant unto thee to overwhelm the Tahounou : 
the islands of the children of Javan shall bow down to thy 
thought. I show unto them thy majesty, as it were a raging 
lion who crouches over the dead in their valleys. 

" I come, I grant unto thee to overwhelm the lands on 
the sea-coast : all the borders of the great circle of the 
waters are bound to thy hand. I shoAv unto them thy 
majesty, as it were a hawk whose eye shall see swiftly all 
that pleaseth him. 

" I come, I grant unto thee to overwhelm the peoples 
that dwell in their marshes, to bind in captivity the lords 
of the sands. I show unto them thy majesty, as it were the 
Jackal of the South, Lord of Swiftness, going up and down 
the two lands. 

" I come, I grant unto thee to crush the people of Nubia, 
even as far as the people of Punt : all is held in thy hand. 
I show unto them thy majesty, like to the majesty of thy 
two brethren Horus and Set, whose arm is with mine to 
assure thy power." 

To the south of the great temple of Amen is a pool 
of water, once the sacred lake ; it was lined with stone. 
There are also the remains of four more pylons, but they 
are very much dilapidated. From the last pylon an avenue 
of sphinxes leads to the temple of Mut, built bv 

90 



UPPER EGYPT 



Amenhotep III., but bearing the names of many of the 
later kings. 

Most people will consider Karnak well worth a second 
visit at least ; and, if possible, they should arrange to see it 
by moonlight — the effect is impressive. 

Thebes — West Bank. — On the west side of the Nile there 
are a great many points of interest which should on no 
account be missed. 

It is best to start at about 10 a.m., to have lunch on the 
far side, and return to Luxor about 3 or 4 p.m. 

Notice should be given to the hotel people, who will arrange 
for lunch to be sent over to the Rest House erected by Messrs. 
Cook on the western side. 

On the river-front are boats belonging to the various 
hotels, and on the other side the donkeys are waiting. 

THE TEMPLE OF SETI L AT KURNA 

This is about three-quarters of an hour's ride in a north- 
westerly direction from the landing-stage. It is conspicuous 
from a distance by the fine columns forming the fagade. 

The temple, founded in honour of Amen, and partly 
decorated by Seti I., was completed by his son Rameses the 
Great, who added many of his own inscriptions. The portion 
now standing represents only about a third of the original 
building, as there were at least two pylons, separated from 
the sanctuary by broad colonnade courts, which have dis- 
appeared. The walls bear interesting reliefs of Seti and 
Rameses before the gods. 

THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS AT BIBAN-EL-MULUK 

Close to Kurna the desert begins and the spurs of the hills 
meet the plain. # The track enters a rocky valley, which 
winds, and gradually narrows right into the heart of the 
hills, arid, rocky, infinitely desolate ; it is well named the 
" Valley of Death." After half an hour's ride the valley 
becomes a mere gorge, and ends in two or three rocky clefts. 
This was the site chosen by the kings for their sepulture. 

Cut in the face of the almost perpendicular limestone are a 
number of small, stone -lined doorways. All the tombs, though 
of varying size and degree of elaboration, are made on the 
same plan. A steep, sloping passage, cut downwards, right 

91 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

into the face of the hill, is broken at intervals by recesses, 
and ends in one or more large chambers supported by pillars 
of the original rock. In a depression in the floor of the last 
chamber was laid the massive granite sarcophagus containing 
the mummy. 

The walls of the passage, chambers, and pillars were 
covered with finely executed and highly coloured reliefs 
and hieroglyphics. In most cases there are extracts from 
the two " Books of the Dead," which give directions for 
the journey of the departed spirit through the under-world. 
The " Boat of the Sun " also appears frequently. 

The following extract from the " Book of the Dead " was 
found engraved on a sarcophagus. It is a profession of 
faith and of a righteous life : 

" I have committed no fraud against men. I have not 
tormented the widoAv. I have not spoken falsely in the 
tribunal, nor do I know^ ill -faith. I have done no forbidden 
thing. I have not exacted of a taskmaster more work than 
he could do daily. I have not been neglectful. I have not 
been idle. I have not refused my debts, nor have I wearied 
m well-doing. I have not done that which is abominable 
to the Gods. I have not slandered the slave to his master. 
I have starved none. I have made none weep. I have 
slain none, nor have I commanded to murder by treachery. 
I have not stolen the Temple bread. I have not seized the 
cakes offered to the Gods. I have not taken the food or the 
fillets of the dead. I have not gained money by fraud. I 
have not changed the measure of the corn. I have not 
defrauded the breadth of a finger on the hand. I have not 
seized land. I have not changed the plates of the balance. 
I have not falsified the balance. I have not taken the milk 
from the mouths of the sucklings. I have not hunted the 
sacred animals in their pastures. I have not taken the 
divine birds in the net. I have not fished for the sacred 
fish in their ponds. I have not kept the water back in its 
season. I have not cut a branch of the water in its passage. 
I have not quenched the sacred fire at its hour. I have not 
violated the divine cycle in its chosen offerings. I have not 
driven the oxen from the sacred pastures. I have not 
turned aside the God in his procession. I am pure. I am 
pure. I am pure. I am pure." 

In several of the tombs at Biban-el-Muluk the reliefs are 

92 



UPPER EGYPT 



wonderfully perfect, and the colours as fresh as when first 
put on 3500 years ago. The limestone, too, is of such uniform 
excellence that in many cases the reliefs are cut in the living 
rock itself, and their surface is almost like marble. 

There are about forty rock tombs in all ; many have been 
damaged and are not worth seeing, but four or five are of 
great interest. Nos. 35, 17, and 11 are perhaps the best, and 
if one can spend more time Nos. 6 and 9 are worth seeing. 

The Tomb of Amenhotep II. (No. 35) is of particular 
interest, as some of the mummies found have been left in situ. 
Besides the mummy of Amenhotep II., which may be seen 
lying in his sarcophagus, several other kings were also found. 
Apparently at the time of Thebes' decline the royal tombs 
were no longer safe from robbers, so that many of the mummies 
were removed to safer places. This tomb is specially designed 
to baffle the marauder. The main passage appears to end 
in a large pit-like chamber, and it was only after considerable 
trouble that the continuation of it was discovered, as the 
opening had been bricked up and carefully concealed. 

Now that it is opened, a wooden bridge spans the pit, 
and just beyond is the tomb chamber, with beautifully 
coloured reliefs. Amongst others the mummies of Seti II., 
Thothmes IV., and Amenhotep III. were found here, and 
have been removed to the Cairo Museum. 

The Tomb of Seti I. (No. 17) was discovered by Belzoni 
as early as 1817. The reliefs are considered to be the finest 
of any in the tombs. They show the king before various 
gods, also the different stages of the sun-god's passage through 
the under -world. In the mummy chamber was found only 
the alabaster sarcophagus ; the mummy was found at Deir- 
el-Bahari, and is in Cairo. 

The Tomb of Ramieses III. (No. 11) varias from the 
others, as on either side of the main passage is a series of 
small chambers. The most diverse and interesting scenes 
are depicted on their walls. The mummy of the king was 
found at Deir-el-Bahari, and is now in the Cairo Museum. 

The tombs of Rameses IX. and VI. (Nos. 6 and 9) are also 
interesting, and should not be missed, unless the visitor is 
pressed for time. 

From the Tombs of the Kings a mountain-path leads over 
the hill. It is about half an hour across to Deir-el-Bahari — 
a short cut, and not difficult. Near the point where the 

93 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

path emerges into the plain is the Rest House, established 
by Messrs. Cook and Sons. The usual plan is for the hotel to 
send lunch here ; it can be taken in comfort, and afterwards 
one can rest for an hour or so in the middle of the day. 

This is a favourite pitch for casual anticj[uity sellers, pro- 
fessional beggars, and bakshish hunters. It is best to have 
nothing to do with them, otherwise life for the rest of the 
day Avill be a burden. 

TEMPLE OF QUEEN HATASU AT DEIR-EL-BAHARI 

A short distance from the Rest House is the temple of 
Queen Hatasu (eighteenth dynasty, B.C. 1500), rising by 
broad terraces up the desert slope. The upper court is 
surrounded on two sides by nearly perpendicular cliffs. 
The sanctuary and other chambers are cut out of the rock. 

It will be noticed at once that the plan of this temple is a 
complete departure from the usual design adopted by sove- 
reigns of the eighteenth and nineteenth dynasties. In the 
last year or two much light has been thrown on this point 
by excavations carried out just south of the temple. The 
ruins of a temple of Menthuhetep (eleventh dynasty, B.C. 
2500), having many points of resemblance to Queen Hatasu's, 
have been unearthed just alongside the latter. 

It seems probable that Queen Hatasu, seeing the older 
edifice, copied it in some particulars. 

The representations of her, though much mutilated by 
her brother and husband, Thothmes III., who reigned alter- 
nately with her, are interesting ; as a ruler of Egypt, she is 
given male attributes, such as a beard and male clothing. 
Within the upper colonnade is a relief representing her 
expedition to Punt. 

A short distance to the south is the village of Sheikh Abd- 
el-Kurna, in and around which are a large number of tombs. 
These belong to grandees and high court officials of the 
eighteenth dynasty. A few of them are w^orth a visit, more 
particularly Nos. 48, 125, and 18. 

RAMESSEUM 

About fifteen minutes' ride south-east of Sheikh Abd-el- 
Kurna is the Ramesseum, a large temple dedicated by 

94 




o 

03 






EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

Rameses II. to Amen. The entrance is, as usual, through a 
pylon of colossal dimensions. On the inside are some very 
realistic representations of the Syrian campaigns ; on the 
south side is the battle of Kadesh, and on the north the 
Egyptian army encamped. 

Very little remains of the first court, except the broken 
Colossus of Rameses, a statue cut from a single block of 
red granite. It must have been nearly sixty feet high, 
and even the fragments that now remain testify to the 
excellence of the workmanship. The second court is in very 
fair preservation ; it was surrounded by colonnades, and 
many of the columns (some with statues of Osiris) are still 
standing. Beyond is the hypos tyle hall of forty- eight 
columns, reached by three flights of steps. The two centre 
rows have calyx capitals and are higher than the rest, form- 
ing a clerestory roof, as at Karnak ; part of this roof is still 
intact. Leading from the great hall are two smaller halls 
with columns, beyond which w^as the sanctuary and other 
rooms. They are, however, in a very ruinous state. 

THE TOMBS OF KURNET MURRAI 

To the west of the Ramesseum is the hill of Kurnet Murrai, 
where there are several rock tombs of the eighteenth dynasty. 
The most interesting is that of Huya, who was governor of 
Ethiopia under King Tut-enkh-Amen. The wall sculptures 
are worth examining. 

Beyond the hill of Kurnet Murrai is the small temple of 
Deir-el-Medina, built by Ptolemy IV. and dedicated to Hathor. 
If time allows, this is worth a visit. 

MEDINET HABU 

About a mile south of Deir-el-Medina are the temples of 
Medinet Habu. The principal temple is that of Rameses III. ; 
it very much resembles the Ramesseum in plan, but is in a 
much better state of preservation. Many of the exploits of 
Rameses III. are depicted on the walls. The reliefs on the 
outside walls of the temple are worth notice ; both naval and 
mihtary operations are there depicted. 

THE TOMBS OF THE QUEENS 

The Tombs of the Queens are about a mile to the north- 
west of Medinet Habu. That of Queen Titi is the most 

96 



UPPER EGYPT 



interesting ; it is remarkable for the extreme freshness of 
the colouring. 

THE COLOSSI OF MEMNON 

These stand in cultivated land about a mile to the north- 
west of the landing-stage. The two enormous statues repre- 
sent Amenhotep III. in a sitting position, and are 52 ft. high. 

Although much damaged by time and the Nile flood, the 
Colossi are amongst the most remarkable monuments of 
ancient Egypt. Their size is all the more apparent on the 
level plain. Originally they adorned the front of a temple 
founded by Amenhotep, but of this little or nothing remains. 

The northernmost of the two figures excited considerable 
interest and discussion in Roman times, as at sunrise the 
statue is said to have emitted a musical note, of which many 
explanations have been given. Strabo, Pausanias, and 
Juvenal mention the fact ; Strabo, however, was sceptical as 
to its supernatural origin. 

DISTRIBUTION OF TIME 

The question of what to see first will depend largely on the 
amount of time at the disposal of the visitor. In three days 
one can devote a little time to each point of interest, while 
some of the most important monuments can be seen in one 
long day's expedition. In this case both guides and donkey- 
boys will probably want extra money. The following arrange- 
ments are suggested for those with one, two, or three days at 
their disposal. 

One Day 

Start from Luxor at 8.30 a.m., and cross the river. Ride 
to the temple of Seti I. at Kurna, from there to the Tombs of 
the Kings at Biban-el-Muluk. After exploring two or three 
of the tombs — say those of Seti L, Rameses III., and Amen- 
hotep III. (Nos. 17, 11, and 35) — ride over the hill to the 
temple of Queen Hatasu at Deir-el-Bahari and return to the 
landing-stage, stopping on the way to see the Ramesseum 
and the Colossi of Memnon. Lunch is taken at Luxor, and 
the afternoon can be devoted to the temples of Luxor and 
Karnak. 

Two Days 

First day. — In the morning the temple of Seti I. and the 

97 



E G Y P T, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

Tombs of the Kings can be explored, lunch being taken at the 
Rest House. In the afternoon ride to the temple of Queen 
Hatasu ; the Ramesseum and Colossi can be seen on the a^ ay 
back. 

Second day. — The temples of Medinet Habu, the tombs of 
Kurnet Murrai, and the temple of Deir-el-Medina may be 
seen in the morning, returning to lunch at Luxor. The 
temples of Luxor and Karnak will occupy the afternoon. 

Three Days 

First day. — In the morning the temple of Seti I. at Kurna 
and the Tombs of the Kings. Lunch at the Rest House. 
In the afternoon the Ramesseum and the Colossi. 

Second day. — The temple of Medinet Habu, the Tombs of 
the Queens, and Deir-el-Medina in the morning. Lunch at 
the Rest House. In the afternoon the temple of Queen 
Hatasu at Deir-el-Bahari and the tomb of Huya at Kurnet 
Murrai. 

Third day. — The whole day is devoted to the temples of 
Luxor and Karnak. 

LUXOR TO ASSOUAN 

At Luxor the line changes to narrow gauge, but the same 
tradition of comfort is, as far as possible, maintained in the 
trains ; the windows are fitted with smoked glass to counter- 
act the glare, and a luncheon-car is attached to the train. 

The journey takes six and a half hours. 

At Luxor station there is not only a buffet, but even baths 
for the dusty. 

The best trains leave Luxor at 10.30 a.m. and Assouan at 
10. L5 A.M. in connection with, the trains de luxe and night 
mail from and to Cairo. 

The time-tables are given on pages 182, 183. 

The fares are : 

Luxor- Assouan — 1st class, 87J pt. 
2nd „ 44 „ 

For other fares see page 195. 

Armant, the first station after Luxor, is unenviably 
notorious for a breed of dogs whose ferocity renders them 
useful for watching but rather embarrassing as pets. 

Near Maalhx are the dazzling white limestone quarries 
from which comes the stone for the Esneh barrage. 

^hitAna, the next station, has a big sugar factor3^ 

08 



UPPER EGYPT 



ESNEH 

Esneh is a large native town on the west bank of the 
Nile. Sir John Aird and Co., the contractors for this as for 
the Assouan dam, will give permission for those who wish 
to see the barrage in construction. 

The temple of Esneh is quite worth a visit. It is in the 
centre of the town, and in order to get there from the station 




Arab Villaoe near Esneh 



the river must be crossed. Donkeys will be found at the 
station to carry one as far as the river ferry (about ten 
minutes) ; the charge is three or four piastres for the return 
journey. One feature of Esneh is the baskets of parti- 
coloured straw which can be purchased in the town or at 
the station. 

The temple of Knoumu is one of the latest of all Egyptian 
monuments, erected in the Ptolemaic period and embellished 
by various Roman emperors. 

The front is 37 m. broad and 15 m. high. x4t the centre 
of the architrave is a solar disc, below which are inscriptions 
in honour of Claudius and Vespasian. Rome is mentioned 
as the centre of the world. These inscriptions were, of course, 
far later than the construction of the temple itself. 

The capitals of the pillars are richly decorated. On one 

99 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

of the doors opening on to the sanctuary is a curious fresco, 
showing Decius sacrificing to Knoumu. Decius is the latest 
Roman emperor cited in hieroglyphics on Egyptian monu- 
ments. On the north wall is a fresco of the hawk-headed 
Horus netting water-fowl and fish in company with Com- 
modus and Knoumu — a curious trio. 

There is a small chapel in the east wall, where are several 
inscriptions that mention the names of Roman emperors. 

Esneh has also a Roman quay wall on the river. 

At Mahamid, two stations beyond Esneh, are the ruins of 
El-Kab, the Nekkab of ancient Egypt and Eileithyiaspolis of 
the Greeks. 

The ruins, about two miles south of the station, are sur- 
rounded by an extremely massive wall of mud-brick 37 ft. 
thick, which, although built during the Middle Empire, is 
little damaged. There is a very fine view from the . north 
wall. 

The small temple of Amenhotep III., to the east, is w^orth 
seeing. 

There are many other remains. In the hills to the north are 
rock tombs of the Middle and New Empires and inscriptions 
by kings of the sixth dynasty ; also a small rock temple, 
reached by a stairway cut in the rock, and built under Euer- 
getes II. 

EDFOU 

Edfou, the next station, once a great city, is now^ but a 
small town. The temple is in the middle of the town on 
the west bank of the river ; it is the most perfect example of 
an Egyptian temple existing to-day. 

The station of Edfou is on the edge of the river, which is 
crossed by the ferry, and the temple is reached in twenty 
minutes' walk or ten minutes' donkey-ride. 

Horus was the local deity, and to him the temple is dedi- 
cated. He was the first " Lord of the Two Lands " in pre- 
dynastic mythology. The temple, commenced by Ptolemv 
Euergetes I. and continued by Philopator, was completed 
by Neos Dionysius, who added the decorative reliefs. Other 
rulers also added to it. It is a monument to the glory of 
Horus and the greatness of the Ptolemaic monarchs. The 
columns are admirably preserved, and richly decorated with 
fine capitals. The paintings and reliefs on the ceiling of the 

100 



UPPER EGYPT 



hall are in good preservation, but have become so black as 
to be almost invisible. 

To right and to left of the entrance are two chapels, one 
of which was used as a library. The MSS. kept there were 




At Kattara 

catalogued on the walls. The other was called the room of 
purification. This rite was similar to Christian baptism, 
and consisted in aspersions of holy water. There is a picture 
of the king being purified by Horus and Thoth. 

The finest and most delicately conceived relief is that on 
the north wall of the hall above the door ; it depicts a solar 
disc and a winged scarabeus in a boat, with two hawk-headed 
figures of Horus. The hypostyle is supported by twelve 
pillars with floral capitals and rich decoration. 

The walls of the temple are beautifully painted • every- 
where are figures of Horus and Hathor. the most important 
is the west wall, on which is the textual and pictorial descrip- 
tion of the battles of Horus. His foes have crocodile and 
hippopotamus heads. With Horus are associated the king 
and Isis. In the first relief the king and Horus are each 
slaying a hippopotamus with javelins. 

101 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 



A staircase of 242 steps and fourtean stages leads to the 
platform of the pylon, and one can ascend by a corridor on 
to the roof of the portico. In the front of the pylon there 
are four recesses which formerly held the huge flagstaffs 
which were the feature of every Egyptian temple. x\n 
inscription asserts that these were also used as lightning 
conductors. It is a wonderful temple, in a wonderful state 
of preservation. 

After Edfou for some miles the railway winds round the 
face of the cliffs, high above the Nile. One of these is crowned 
by the ruins of El-Sirrag, a Roman fortress. After Kagoug 
the line crosses the wide plain of Kom Ombo. Only three 
years ago this was arid desert, but now, through the enter- 
prise of Sir Ernest Cassel, as far as the eye can reach are 
gre^n (Tops and evidence of a thriving community. 

The next station, Daraw, is a fair-sized town ; it is the 
starting-point of the camel route to Berber and the Sudan. 
As the train stops one is besieged by native sellers of fans 
and other articles of Sudanese manufacture. 

THE TEMPLE OF KOM OMBO 

Donkeys (price 8 pt. to 10 pt.) can be obtained at Daraw 
for the excursion to the temple of Sebek and Horus. A ride 
of an hour and a half brings one to the site of the ancient 
town — of importance in the time of the Ptolemies. 

The temple is on the edge of the Nile. Half (the right-hand 
side) is dedicated to the crocodile-god Sebek, and the left- 
hand side to Horus. The pylon in front is partly destroyed. 
Of the columns in the court beyond, onlv half their height 
remains, but what is left is finely painted and in good pre- 
servation. After the court is the great hypos tyle hall. The 
roof has fallen, but its position is defined by two rows of 
richly decorated pillars with palm-leaf capitals. 

To the right of the north gateway is a finely worked relief 
of the king, Neos Dionysius, receiving the benediction of a 
lion-headed Isis and other gods, in the presence of Horus. 

The small hypostyle hall has also two rows of pillars ; on 
the shafts are pictures of Euergetes sacrificing to the gods. 
On the left wall (north-west) is a splendid relief of Horus 
offering a curious, curved, sickle-shaped sword to Euergetes 
II. Behind the king are his sister Cleopatra and his wife. 

102 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

There are three rooms to the north-east. In the third is 
a rehef of Ptolemy Philometor, followed by Cleopatra and 
the two gods of the temple, receiving from Khons the emblem 
of long life. At this end of the temple are the two sane- 




Temple of Kom Cm bo 

tuaries, that of Sebek to the right and of Horus to the left. 
In front of the temple, on the terrace, close to the two 
sanctuaries, is a small temple devoted to the birth -goddess, 
but it is mostly in ruins. Last of all is the little unfinished 
chapel dedicated by Domitian to the glory of Hathor. 

Between Daraw and Ghezireh, where the line at times 
skirts the river, are wonderful views of the sweeping curves 
of the Nile. Palms on the far bank stand out against the 
brilliant ochre of the desert hills. 

A svibtle change seems to have come over the country. 
It is all of a sudden the Egypt of the picture-books known 
in ones childhood. The river, sand, and palm-trees are old 
friends. One looks for a crocodile at the water-side. 

After Ghezireh comes the junction for Shellal, and then 
Assouan. 

104 





3 
O 

a 

o 
o 

o 




a^ 



■"^fl'BOfc 



II 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 



ASSOUAN 

On arrival the matter of first importance is hotels. There 
are three large ones. It is hard indeed to choose between 
the Cataract and the Savoy. Both are first-class and in 
delightful positions ; both supply all that the visitor can wish. 
The Cataract Hotel, built high above the Nile, of which 
there is a splendid view both up and down, is perhaps the 
most popular. The Savoy is on Elephantine Island, just 
opposite the town, with gardens and trees. Both hotels 
have tennis courts. A rather smaller hotel is the Grand, 
situated in the town facing the Nile ; it has recently been 
rebuilt, and is very comfortable. Full particulars of the 
hotels are given on page 163. 

There is an English church near the Cataract Hotel, and 
a resident chaplain holds regular services in winter. 

Assouan is not a great centre ; its importance lies prin- 
cipally in its qualities as a winter resort and its archaeological 
interest. It is for all practical purposes the southern boun- 
dary of Egypt, and the borderland between races who, for 
all their relations one with another, have never mingled. 

Though a brazen furnace in summer, Assouan can hardly 
be surpassed as a health resort in winter. Surrounded bj^ 
desert, the air is dry, yet the usual penalty — dust — is absent. 
Rain hardly ever falls. The days are warm and brilliantly 
sunny, but seldom unpleasantly hot during the winter 
months. The town appears wonderfullv clean. There is a 
refreshing novelty about the scenery — the town lays at the 
foot of the first cataract, and the river is hedged in by rocks 
and great rounded boulders of pleasing outline. 

Among the places of interest in and near the town, not 
least are the bazaars — more picturesque than most of their 
kind. Long - haired, shaggy Bishareen stalk past — often 
with a lance in their hand; effendis, Greeks, fellaheen, in 
every kind of dress pass up and down. Many of the shops 
are ^vorth notice. Sudanese wares. Dervish arms and 
armour, and difi^erent objects of native manufacture make 
up their varied stock-in-trade. 

On the desert above the town is the Bishareen camp. 
These nomads of the eastern desert, camel and sheep dealers 
by trade, come into Assouan in Avinter and pitch their dis- 
reputable-looking tents near the town. Many think them 
worth a visit. 

lOt) 







Ofi 

a 
o 

g 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 



Assouan has, besides its ancient monuments, one great 
modem achievement — the Dam. This should certainly be 
visited. It is at the upper end of the cataract, at Shellal, 
about six miles by rail south of Assouan. This work, com- 
pleted in 1902, was four years in the building, and has had 
a tremendous effect on the prosperity of Egypt. The river 




Rocks at Shellal 

above the dam slopes upwards, but very gently, so that an 
immense reservoir is formed, stretching south for 120 miles. 
In winter, when the river is high, some of the water is held 
back and the reservoir gradually filled. At low Nile, in the 
spring and summer, when Egypt has hardly enough water 
to save herself from absolute drought, the sluices are opened 
and the supply augmented, until, as the river begins to rise 
for the next flood, the reservoir is empty. 

The Dam is 2180 yds. long, 131 ft. high, and at present holds 
up the water 65 ft. It is built of the red Assouan granite 
used by the ancients for their most lasting memorials. 

The ancient history of Assouan is graven on its rocks. 
Here are the Syene quarries whence came the huge granite 

108 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

monoliths for many a mighty statue, temple, and obelisk ; 
indeed, wherever the red granite is seen throughout all 
Egypt every stone had its origin in these quarries, cut 
laboriously with primitive tools from the rocks of Assouan, 
shaped and smoothed with consummate skill, then floated 
down the river on vast rafts, and finally dragged, by the 
labour of thousands, to their resting-place in some far 
northern shrine. One huge obelisk, 90 ft. long, can be seen 
at the quarries, half excavated, with one face still joined to 
the mother rock. 

These quarries, which are to the south of the town, should 
be visited (donkeys, 5 to 8 pt.). 

FUILJE 

The most remarkable monuments are on the island of 
Philse, a short distance from the dam. The island has been 
called the " Pearl of Egypt," and certainly its setting is 
most beautiful. 

The temples, of which there are several, all date from the 
Ptolemaic period. No doubt there were earlier shrines, but 
these have disappeared. 

The best way to visit Philse is to take the train from As- 
souan to Shellal. The journey takes half an hour. The 
trains are as follows : 

From Assouan : 7.0, 9.0, 10.45 a.m., 2.10, 4.0, and 5.10 p.m- 
From Shellal: 8.0, 9.40, 10.5 a.m., 12.0, 2.50, and 6.0 p.m. 

The fares are : First class, 6 pt. ; second class, 3 pt. 

At Shellal boats are in waiting. 

Since the construction of the Assouan dam the island of 
Philae is submerged from about the middle of January till 
the middle of June. When the water is high the temples 
must be approached and entered by boat. 

After exploring Philae a visit to the dam can be made, 
and then one can return to Assouan by boat, down the 
cataract. 

ELEPHANTINE ISLAND 

There are the remains of several temples on the south 
end of the Island of Elephantine, opposite the Cataract 
Hotel, and also a very old Nilometer, which is worth seeing. 

During the winter of 1906-7 some interesting "finds " were 

110 



UPPER EGYPT 



made at this spot ; a number of mummied rams in granite 
sarcophagi were unearthed. Apparently the ram was a 
sacred animal, and was worshipped in the ancient town of 
Elephantine. 

THE ROCK TOMBS 

There are rock tombs of the Ancient and Middle Empires 
to be seen cut in the hill on the west bank, opposite 
Elephantine. These are contemporary with the rock tombs 
of Beni Hassan, and were constructed by the grandees and 
princes of Elephantine. 

CONVENT OF ST. SIMEON 

The ancient Coptic convent of St. Simeon is worth a visit. 
It can be reached in about half an hour from the west bank 
of the Nile, opposite Elephantine Island. 



HI 




A Tomb in the Desert 



CHAPTER V 

THE SUDAN 

To a certain proportion of our annual visitors " wintering in 
Egypt " includes a trip to Khartoum and Omdurman, but 
these regular travellers to the south can as yet scarcely be 
called numerous, though their numbers increase annually. 
Doubtless to many people the word " Sudan " calls up visions 
of burning deserts, arduous travel, and general conditions 
remote from civilisation. 

Modern enterprise, however, has within a decade brought 
the ancient capital of the dervishes within a few days' 
journey of Cairo, and up-to-date means of travel, both by 
river and rail, combine to render the journey at once com- 
fortable and expeditious. 

The following notice has been issued for visitors to the 
Sudan : 



'' Travellers, while in the Sudan, are particularly requested 
to refrain from gaining an easy reputation for generosity by 
giving money to children, beggars, or other persons who 
have not earned it. 

112 



THE SUDAN 



" At present the population of the Sudan has not been 
demoralised by indiscriminate almsgiving, but it will not 
require much of this to make the demand " Bakshish /" as im- 
portunate and annoying to travellers as in Egypt itself, and 
to cause a considerable number of natives to forsake the 
paths of honest industry for the unwholesome existence of 
preying upon others. 

" His Excellencv the Governor- General trusts that all 
travellers will consider this as a personal request from him- 
self, and at the same time would inform them that if they 
desire to give any money for the benefit of the inhabitants, 
contributions for hospitals or relief of poverty, assistance 
to the sick, and relief of deserving cases amongst the poorer 
classes will be carefully administered by the Governors, and 
he himself will gratefully receive contributions for what is the 
Sudan's greatest need, viz., education. 

" By Order of the Governor- General. 

" (Signed) F. J. Nason, Lewa." 

There are two routes to the Sudan — the Nile route and the 
Red Sea route. 



THE NILE ROUTE 

The first stage, along that reach of the Nile which lies 
between the great Assouan dam and the second cataract at 
Wadi -Haifa, is performed by three lines of river steamers — 
Messrs. Cook and Sons', The Hamburg and Anglo-American 
Company's, and the Sudan Government steamers. 

During the winter season of 1907-8 the Sudan Govern- 
ment steamers will leave Shellal on Fridays and Tuesdays, 
arriving at Haifa on Sundays and Thursdays. The landing- 
stage at Haifa is opposite the railway station, and there is 
an hotel adjacent. 

Through express trains, with sleeping- and dining-cars and 
a limited amount of first-, second-, and third-class accom- 
modation, will leave Haifa at 2.50 p.m. on Sundays and 
Thursdays, reaching Khartoum North, the present terminus 
of the railway, shortly before four o'clock the following 
afternoon. 

Down trains from Khartoum North leave at 10.15 r.M. 
on Sundays and Thursdays, arriving at Haifa at 10.25 p.m. 
next day, the steamers leaving early next morning for Shellal. 

113 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

Complete time-tables of Sudan Government' Railways 
trains will be found on pages 191-194 of this guide. 

The rolling-stock in use on these express trains has been 
specially constructed with a view to ensuring the maximum 
of comfort and freedom from dust. The windows are of 
tinted glass, and fitted with dust-shields, so that a view can 
be obtained of the country traversed. The cars are all 
electrically lighted, while patent cooling and ventilating 
apparatus has been recently installed. 

The fares by express trains from Haifa to KJiartoum are 
as follows (return fares being double the single fares in all 
cases) : 

First class and sleeping-car (exclu- 
sive of meals) .... LE6.750 

First class 5.750 

Second „ 4.025 

Third 2.015 

Passengers are permitted to take light hand-baggage only 
into the cars. Ordinary luggage must be registered through 
and paid for at point of departure. All baggage carried in 
the baggage -van will be charged for at the rate of 0.07 mil- 
liemes per 10 kilogs. per kilometre, which charge includes 
registration, station, and handling fees, and insures to the 
value of a sum not exceeding LEIO for each package. The 
light hand- baggage allowed in cars with passengers is carried 
at their entire risk. 

The Sudan Government Railways will be exempt from all 
responsibility for loss of or damage to jewellery, money, 
ornaments, precious stones, and bullion. 

Baggage to be registered should be brought to the station 
at least half an hour before the departure of the train, other- 
wise it is liable to be refused. 

Sleeping-car berths for the journey southwards can be 
reserved on application to the District Traffic Manager, 
Sudan Government Railways, Haifa Camp, whose registered 
telegraphic address is " Rukab, Haifa Camp," also on 
application to the following tourist agencies at Cairo : 
Messrs. Thos. Cook and Sons, Ltd., the Hamburg and 
Anglo-American Nile Co., Messrs. Carl Stangen, Messrs. E. 
P. Blattner and Co., Agence Lubin. ; also the branch offices 
of the above agencies at Luxor, Assouan, &c. 

114 



THE SUDAN 



Seats in the ordinary first-, second-, and third-class car- 
riages cannot be reserved except by special arrangement 
with the District Traffic Manager, Sudan Government 
Railways, Haifa Camp. (Telegraphic address : " Rukab, 
Haifa Camp.") 

Cheques are not accepted by the Sudan Government 
Railways, and the only bank-notes which are accepted are 
those of the Bank of England and the National Bank of 
Egypt. 

Meals are provided on the sleeping-car trains between 
Haifa and Khartoum at a fixed tariff as given below, but on 
ordinary expresses passengers must make their own arrange- 
ments. 

Tariff in Dining-cars. — The daily charge for meals is 
70 pt., which includes : 

Breakfast (8 a.m.) 
Tea, coffee, eggs, cold meat, bread and butter 10 pt. 

Lunch (1 p.m.) 
Soup or fish, entree, joint and vegetables, 

sweets, cheese, coffee, bread, &c. . . 24 pt. 

Afternoon Tea 

Tea or coffee, bread and jam, butter, biscuits, 

cake, &c. . . . . . . 6 pt. 

Dinner (7.30 p.m.) 
Hors d'oeuvres, soup, fish, entree, joint and 
vegetables, sweets, cheese, dessert, coffee, 
bread, &c. . . . . . . 30 pt. 

Total per diem . . .70 pt. 

Any complaints of service or attendance should be ad- 
dressed to the District Traffic Manager, Haifa Camp or 
Khartoum North. 

Hot and cold baths are provided at Atbara for the con- 
venience of passengers at a charge of 10 pt. 

There are telegraph offices in the railway stations at 
Haifa Camp, No. 6 Station (Desert Section), Abou Hamed. 
Berber, Atbara, El-Damer, Shendi, and Khartoum North, 
Talgwareb, Gebeit, Port Sudan, Sallom, Suakin. 

Letters can be posted on the trains. 

115 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

The attention of passengers is called to the conditions and 
notices on the reverse side of their railway tickets. 

Good hotel accommodation may be obtained at the Grand 
Hotel, Khartoum. 

There is a monthly service of Government steamers south 
from Khartoum up the White Nile, particulars of which 
may be obtained from the Agent- General, Sudan Govern- 
ment, War Office, Cairo, or from the Director of Steamers 
and Boats, Khartoum North. 



Distances in Miles from Khartoum 



Miles from 


Miles between 


Haifa. 


Stations. 


stations. 




. Haifa 




126 . 


. No. 6 (Desert Station) . 


126 


230 . 


Abou Hamed .... 


104 


343 . 


Abidia ..... 


113 


361 . 


Berber ..... 


18 


385 . 


. Atbara (Junction for Suakin 






Line) ..... 


24 


392 . 


. El-Damar .... 


7 


429 . 


. Mutmir ..... 


27 


471 . 


. Shendi .... 


42 


496 . 


Wad Ben Naga 


25 


524 . 


Gebel Gerri 


. 28 


547 . 


. Wad Ramleh 


. 23 


575 . 


Khartoum North . 


. 28 
Miles. 


Distance frc 


Dm Abou Hamed to Kareima 


. 156 




Atbara to Suakin . 


. 305 




,, to Port Sudan . 


. 30"^ 




Suakin to Khartoum 


. 495 



THE RED SEA ROUTE, VIA SUEZ AND PORT SUDAN 

Although the new railway which has been built to connect 
the main line with the Red Sea was primarily intended as a 
trade route, to facilitate the development of the provinces 
watered by the Upper Nile and its tributaries, it affords also 
a comfortable alternative route for visitors to the Sudan. 

Passengers intending to use this route travel from Suez 
to Port Sudan by Khedivial mail steamers, leaving the former 
port on Wednesday evening, and arriving at the latter on 

116 



THE SUDAN 



Friday evening. An express train, conveying sleeping-car, 
first", second-, and third-class passengers, and the European 
mails received via Brindisi, leaves Port Sudan at 8 p.m. on 
Fridays, and runs through to Khartoum, which is reached 
on Saturday shortly after 6 p.m. 

Accommodation on this boat express should, as far as 
possible, be reserved in advance by letter or telegram ad- 
dressed to the District Traffic Manager at Suakin, whose 
telegraphic address is " Rukab, Suakin." 

At Atbara Junction, where the boat express passes on to 
the main line about 10.30 a.m. on Saturday, passengers 
may enjoy the luxury of a bath for the moderate sum of 
10 pt. 

The down boat express from Khartoum leaves at 9.15 
P.M. on Tuesdays, reaching Port Sudan on Wednesdays 
shortly after 8 p.m. The steamer leaves at 11 o'clock next 
morning, so that there is time for travellers to inspect the 
new town and harbour works. Suez is reached on Saturday 
afternoon. 

The fares by this route are as follows (return fares being 
double the single fares) : 

First class and sleeping-car (exclu- 
sive of meals) .... LE5.920 

First class 4.920 

Second ,, . . . . . 3.445 

Third „ 1.720 

The charges for meals on the dining-car will be the same 
as for the Haifa-Khartoum service. 

For complete time-tables see page 191 e^ seq. 

The same regulations are applicable in respect of pas- 
sengers' baggage, &c., on this service as on the sleeping-car 
trains between Haifa and Khartoum. 

Tickets can be obtained from the various tourist agencies 
in Cairo available from Haifa to Khartoum and returning 
via Port Sudan, or in the reverse direction — starting from 
Port Sudan and returning via Haifa and Shellal. 

The following notice may be of interest to visitors to the 
Sudan : 

" The attention of all travellers is called to Section 10 of 
the Preservation of Wild Animals Ordinance, published in 
the Sudan Gazette, No. 53, of December 1903, whereby the 

117 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SI:E IT 

sale or purchase of hides, horns, flesh, or any trophies of 
certain animals or birds is absolutely prohibited in the 
Sudan. 

" The animals referred to are : Eland, giraffe, Mrs. Gray's 
waterbuck, rhinoceros, kudu, Tvdld ass, roan antelope, zebra, 
white-eared cob, hartebeest, waterbuck, oryx, ibex. 

" The birds referred to are : Ostrich, shoebill (Balceidceps), 
ground hornbill (Bucorax), secretary bird {Serjyetitariiis). 

" Any person acting in contravention of this section is 
liable to a fine not exceeding LEIO or three months' im- 
prisonment, and all such hides, horns, or trophies are liable 
to confiscation. 

" Sportsmen are earnestly invited to co-operate with the 
Government in enforcing a strict observation of the above 
law. 

" It is clearly in their own interests to d'scourage the 
slaughter of animals by natives, who, if they think they mil 
gain a few piastres for a head or skin, will be particular 
neither as to size, age, nor sex. 

" By Order. 
" (Signed) J. C. Grahame, Bimbashi, 

''For Superintendent Game Preserv. Dept.'' 



lis 





A Sakkieh 



CHAPTER VI 



THE DELTA 

The shape of Egypt is for all the world exactly like the 
Eiffel Tower. The shaft is Upper Egypt, and the base is the 
Delta, formed by the gradual silt of the Nile in its seven — 
now only two — branches. All the space inside is cultivation ; 
without is desert. At the junction of the two is Cairo. 

Historically Upper Egypt is, of course, far more interesting 
than the Delta. The ruins of Lower Egypt are few and far 
between, and seldom in good preservation. It has suffered 
also at times in its cultivation ; for it depends almost wholly 
on canals, and therefore on scientific irrigation — now provided 
by the Delta barrage and supplemented by the new Zifbeh 
barrage. 

A wonderful degree of fertility has been attained. Much 
of the land yields two, and even three, crops in a year. 

We give a short description after this article of such towns 
and places as have any special features, but on the whole 
there is not very much in the Delta to interest most visitors. 

The scenery has none of the grandeur of the Upper Nile 
Valley, but there is in it a certain peaceful charm. The 

119 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

canals flow under endless avenues of scented mimosa, and 
here and there below the broad branches of the lebbek-tree 
the sakkieh (the primitive w^ater- wheel so characteristic of 
Egypt), turned by a slow, plodding " gamoose," drones out 
its monotonous note. 

The villages, their mosque domes and slender white minarets 
rising from a mass of rich verdure, even the waste and 
desolate parts, undrained of the salt that has impregnated 
the land in years of careless w^atering — in all this there is a 
certain atmosphere, a quiet clearness, especially in the 
early morning, and even a variety which Upper Egypt does 
not afford. 

Some of the towns and villages — near Mansourah espe- 
cially — stand high above the surrounding country. Prob- 
ably the mounds on which they are built w^ere themselves 
small towns, Roman, Greek, and Egyptian, the one above 
the other. At Mehallet-Kebir, a most attractive town, and 
at Samanoud, near it, quite a number of such things as 
coins, lamps, small figures, scarabs, &c., are found from 
time to time. 

We cannot suppose that the traveller is likely to devote 
much time to the Delta, but we can at least show him in 
the pages following this what are its features and interests, 
and give him a general impression of them. If he wishes to 
know Egypt as it really is, he should not forget that Lower 
Egypt presents it in its most characteristic, and perhaps 
most charming, aspect. Upper Egypt may be the land of 
the mighty dead ; Lower Egypt is the land of their humbler 
successors. 

A visit can be made to most places in the Delta in a day 
from Cairo or from Alexandria. Besides the State railways, 
which serve all the larger places, a network of light railways 
(worked by the Delta Light Railway Company and the 
Basse -Egypte Company) traverse the fields and connect 
village to village. If one has a day to spare, a trip by the 
light railway is certainly well worth doing. 

BILBEIS 

Bilbeis is rather out of the beaten track, and, as it now 
stands, offers no particularly absorbing sight. It has a 
slight historical interest as having resisted Ammrath, King 
of Jerusalem, with great vigour in 112G a.d. It contained 

~ 120 



THE DELTA 



sufficient wealth to occupy his army for three days in 
pillage. 

The town is as uninteresting as most Arab towns, but 
the surrounding country is pretty — by the Ismailia Canal, 
for instance, which is the barrier between the cultivated 
land and the desert. Near the lock is the irrigation rest- 
house, by itself — a most attractive spot in the evening 
light. Behind it is a broad track of sand, then a few strag- 
gling palms, then the desert, changing rapidly to violet as 
the shadows lengthen. In the far distance is a line of low 
hills, of the deepest purple. The canal, luminous in the 
failing light with soft reflections, stretches straight in either 
direction. High -masted boats move slowly down the stream. 

There are many such attractive places in the Delta — the 
road from Bilbeis to Abou Hammad, for example. It is 
about sixteen miles, parallel with the canal bank. The 
scenery consists of palm-trees, crops of all sorts, and here 
and there a village. There is many a quaint sakhie/i, on 
which a small boy or girl stands, like a charioteer, above the 
horizontal wheel, yelling now and again and brandishing a 
stick to prevent the buffalo from going fast asleep. 

The whole road is delightful, sunlit and sleepy. Now 
and again a fat village notable passes on an equally fat 
donkey, or a splendid dark-faced Bedouin on a fine mare, 
a true horseman — one would say a centaur but for the 
flow of robes and the glistening girdle round the head-dress. 

Salhieh, again, and Korain, where the French fought, are 
good places — big palm -groves at the end of all things, on the 
border of the desert. At Salhieh one walks straight away 
from civilisation and the railway station on to the sand. 
Only the line of telegraph posts to Kantarah breaks the 
monotony. The yellow sand gleams, and the distant mounds 
here and there fade and seem to take strange shapes in the 
mirage of the strong sunlight. Now and again one comes 
on a gipsy-faced woman tending a few goats that nibble 
the scarce, stunted shrubs. In the distance, perhaps, appears 
a Bedouin caravan — a long string of camels, laden with a 
miscellaneous assortment of wares — returning from Syria ; 
for Salhieh is on the old overland route to Asia used since 
the time of the Pharaohs by just such caravans as one may 
see to-day. 



121 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

FACOUS 

Facous is a fertile centre of paJm-groves that branch off 
to the East and South above small canals, and villages with 
quaint winding mud walls, along which the women pass 
blue- gowned, their great water- jars on their heads. The big 
canal, Bahr Facous, divides into three or four other canals 
that range through moderately fertile land and eventually 





At Facous 

lose themselves in that semi-waste end-of-the-world country 
so characteristic of certain parts of the Delta. The line 
past Azazi and Ekiad to Salhieh is a very avenue of palms ; 
the permanent way is the high-road for choice. Salhieh is 
the end of all things, a palm - grove bounded by desert, 
whence one can see almost to Kantarah and the Suez Canal. 

DAMIETTA 

It is rather a far ciy to Damietta, but it can be seen in a 
day, and one need not spend any great length of time there. 
Besides, the journey itself by Tantah and Mansourah is 
interesting to any one Avho really wishes to have an impression 
of the Delta. 

122 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 



The trains run as follows 


* 






A.M. 


A.M. 




P.M. 


Cairo . 7.45 


9.30 


Damietta . 


4.10 


Tantah . 


11.15 


Mansourah . 


6. 6 


Zagazig . 9.54 




Zagazig 




Mansourah 11.50 


12.38 


Tantah 


7.55 


Damietta p.m 


2.30 


Cairo 


9.20 



Full time-tables are given on pages 184 and 185. 
The fares are: 1st class, 85^ pt. ; 2nd class, 43 pt.. 

Tantah and Mansourah are both large and important 
towns. Tantah has a fine mosque, but its chief fame is that 
it possesses the tomb of Said Ahmed El-Bedawy, a celebrated 
Moslem saint, in whose honour are festivals in January, 
April, and August, the last two being the most important. 
These " Moulids," as they are called, last a w^eek — from 
Friday to Friday — and are well worth seeing. There is a 
huge crowd of some 200,000 people, who come in from all the 
country round. Strange symbolical parades are held of fan- 
tastic emblems and curious dances ; the uncanny, ceaseless, 
Arab music and singing is their setting. 

After Tantah the train passes Mehallet-Kebir, a charming 
old towTi with many fair minarets and spires. One mi^ht be 
tempted to spend a night there (though this can hardly be 
recommended unless the traveller does not mind " roughing 
it," as what inns the town possesses are very primitive). One 
ought to walk through the to^Mi at sunset, up the narrow, 
covered streets, past the many mosques. Then is heard, 
startlingly sudden, the magnificent call to prayer breaking 
out overhead — sonorous, echoing and rolling through the 
fading night, and dying away in a long wailing note. 

Mansourah is a great town for cotton and trade, and has 
quite a considerable European colony. The chief attraction 
is the river view, and as a town it is notable as the place 
where St. Louis w^as imprisoned in 1250 a.d. 

From Mansourah to Damietta the line parallels the river, 
and passes at first through rich cotton country. None of 
the small towns are of special interest or importance, though 
they are characteristic enough of the country. 

Damietta itself, like Rosetta, declined as Alexandria rose, 
but it is still a centre of a small commerce from Greek and 
Levantine ports, besides the interior of Egypt. 

The general impression of Damietta is unique. The river 

124 



THE DELTA 



flows past the curious old houses ; steps descend to the water. 
Every house has its boat, it is the Venice or Amsterdam of 
Egypt, and has the charm of all such river-side cities. Behind 
and above the row of houses at the waterside are minarets, 
roofs, mosques, a wide extent of buildings ; for Damietta is 
a town of some size, and has notable bazaars. 

Damietta has a history of its own. It was the gate of 
mediaeval Egypt long be- 
fore it had eclipsed Pe- , ^^^^ . ,w^ 
lusium and annexed the .^^^ 
trade of the eastern delta. 
It fell before the Byzan- 
tines in860 A.D., but they J; 
lost it. and the Sultan El- 
Metounkel fortified it six 
years later. Then followed ^ 
the intrusion of Christian 
warriors: Roger of Sicily ; Hf 
in 1165, others in 1217. 
St. Louis in 1248. All 
these attacks were fol- 
lowed by sieges and dis- 
asters, and tinally rest 
from such incursions. The 
Arabs destroyed the 
ancient city and rebuilt 
it five miles from its 
ancient site. 




A Street Sceue, Damietta 



LAKE MENZALEH 



Lake Menzaleh, the 
largest lake in Egypt (165 
miles in circumference), is 

accessible from any station between Kantarah and Port Said 
— or from Port Said itself, and again on the other side from 
Matarieh. Matarieh, a fair-sized village which has just 
suffered severely from a fire (April 1907), is the termin- 
ation of the " Basse Egypte " Light Railway, which starts 
from Mansourah. 

The lake is shallow, and is largely fed by the Nile. In 
flood time the whole of what was the Pelusian Plain is under 
water. The lake is remarkable for the myriads of birds of 

125 



EGYPT. AND HOW TO SEE IT 

all sorts that frequent it — geese, swans, pelicans, flamingoes, 
ducks, and every sort of water-loving fowl. 

Sais, a collection of fishermen's huts on the south of the 
lake, was once an important city, Tanis. It was the capital 
in the twenty-first d\Tiasty. The numerous obelisks are attri- 
buted to Rameses the Great, and a gateway bears his name. 

The ruins of the city were uncovered by Mariette, who 
found huge fallen and broken obelisks and great statues of 
porphyry and granite. Pillars and stones lie here and there 
where they fell one by one in the silent ages. Pottery and 
papyri of great interest have also been found. Amongst 
them Avere a table of hieroglyphics and a geographical pam- 
phlet showing the names or provinces of ancient Egypt. 

Tanis is the city written of by Messrs. Rider Haggard and 
Andrew Lang in " The World's Desire," a really fine book. 
They present that mighty city in all its glory, the reigning 
Pharaoh Meneptah, the Hebrews and their exodus, and over 
all is the glamour of the legend of Helen of Troy and Odysseus, 
who, in the story, came after many wanderings, and solitary, 
bereft of wife, child, and home, to find his love and death in 
the " Land of Khem." 

The " Field of Zoan " — mentioned in the Bible — which 
was one of the most fertile parts of the country, was in the 
neighbourhood of Tanis. It is now covered by Lake Menzaleh. 




'imstL ou the IJaiiks ui IaiW }i\.c\i/a\.{k:\i 

126 



^ I 




A Breezy Day at Aboiikir 

CHAPTER VII 

ALEXANDRIA 

Alexandria has not the same numerous attractions and 
interests as Cairo, and visitors to Egypt usually neglect it. 
Still, it is the second city in Egypt, a great commercial centre, 
and a really fine town of considerable extent and population. 

The weather in spring is very pleasant, being warm and 
sunny, with little rain. When Cairo has become too hot to 
be comfortable, one may well go to Alexandria, as it is never 
unpleasantly hot there. 

The suburbs of Alexandria are a special feature, especially 
that known as Ramleh, to the east, where are many delightful 
spring and summer resorts. Splendid bathing, boating, and 
sailing can be had there. These is also the Sporting Club, which 
corresponds with that in Cairo. Here one may play golf, 
tennis, cricket, or football, and race meetings are held from 
time to time in the spring and summer. The club is situated 
at " Caesar's Camp," on the electric tram route from Alexan- 
dria to Ramleh. 

An exceedingly good service of electric trams connects 
Alexandria with the suburbs of Ramleh ; they run from an 
early hour in the morning till late at night. The station for 

127 



E G Y P T, AN 1) HOW TO SEE IT 

Ramleh on the Cairo- Alexandria line is Sidi-Gaber, about 
ten minutes from Alexandria terminus ; all trains stop there. 

As to amusements, in Alexandria itself there is the Zizinia 
Theatre, at which the various operatic and dramatic com- 
panies perform after or before their stay in Cairo. There 
are also concerts, and occasionally small dances at the hotels. 

There are several clubs — the Khedivial (over the Bourse), 
the Mohammed Aly, in Rue Rosette, and a recently formed 
but very comfortable little English club, the Union. 

HOTELS 

There are many hotels and peimon^ in and around 
Alexandria, of all classes and suitable to every taste. Of 
those in the to\\TL, the Savoy Palace, Khedivial, Grand 
Hotel, and Hotel Windsor are the best. These are all first- 
class, and in any one of them the visitor will find comfortable 
quarters. 

The Savoy Palace is perhaps the most up-to-date, as the 
hotel was only opened at the beginning of 1907. It pos- 
sesses everything that makes hotel life pleasant — electric 
lifts, a French restaurant and American bar, a hair-dressins^ 
establishment in the hotel ; and there are private suites of 
rooms provided for the more wealthy visitors. 

The Khedivial is situated in the fashionable quarter of 
the town, and can be recommended. 

The Grand Hotel is most conveniently placed in the very 
centre of the to\Mi. 

The Hotel Windsor is near the sea. It is rather smaller 
than the hotels mentioned above, and offers very reasonable 
terms to its visitors. 

At Ramleh the principal hotel is the Grand Casino San 
Stefano — about ten minutes by electric tram from Sidi- 
Gaber station. This hotel forms the summer quarters of the 
Government, and it offers many attractions to its visitors. 
It is on the sea - shore, and has a splendid terrace f acinsr 
the sea, on which meals are served in summer and a band 
plays every afternoon. There are also frequent concerts, 
an occasional dance, and many other entertainments. At- 
taclied to the hotel is a well-equipped bathing establishment, 
where one may take one's morning bathe in the sea with 
safety and comfort. 

The Hotel Beau Rivage is a minute or two further on by 
tram. It is smaller and more moderate than the Casino, 

128 



ALEXANDRIA 





but, for those who prefer a quieter life, very pleasant. In 
front is the sea, and behind there is a pretty garden with 
shady trees and a tennis court. 

Other hotels that can be recommended are the New 
Victoria and the Carlton. 
They are both close to the 
tramway and rather nearer 
the town. Full particulars 
of the hotels, &c., at Alex- 
andria and Ramleh are 
given on pages 159-161. 

Villas at Ramleh, sur- 
rounded by pretty gardens 
and near the sea, can be 
rented for longer or shorter 
periods. The neighbour- 
hood is charming, and the 
air fresh and cool. It is 
a great resort in summer, 
and a godsend to the jaded 
officials who cannot escape 
to England during the 
heat. 

It is necessary to give a 
note of warning to bathers. 
Although the bathing is 
perfectly safe all along the 
coast, it is not advisable 
to swim far from the shore 
without a boat, as there 
are sometimes powerful cur- 
rents. There have been several fatalities, and it is not safe 
for even strong swimmers to venture out too far alone. 

For particulars about the churches, see page 164. 







(Jill with water-jug-. 



ALEXANDRIA'S EARLY HISTORY 

Historically Alexandria has no very ancient interest. It 
was founded by Alexander the Great of Macedon and de- 
veloped by Ptolemy Soter. The latter founded the musLuim 
and the great library, among whose keepers are such names 
as Aristophanes of Byzantium and Eratosthenes of Cyrene. 
Callimachus the poet arranged and labelled the 400,000 

129 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

papyri. Ptolemy II. (Philadelphus) built the Pharcs, a light- 
house of Avhite marble, once one of the seven wonders of the 
world. During the reign of the Ptolemies Alexandria must 
have been a great and magnificent city. 

The library and museum were burnt to the ground on Julius 
Caesar's entry into Alexandria. In compensation Antony 
is supposed to have presented Cleopatra and her city with 
the library of Pergamus, in which Mere some 200,000 ^JSS. 
This second library was destroyed by order of the Caliph 
Omar about 640 a.d. 

The Serapeum was a very wonderful building. Begun 
bv Caesar and completed by Augustus, it held the statue 
of Sera pis, which was worshipped by both Greeks and 
Egyptians. 

Alexandria was a great centre of Christianity and perse- 
cution ; perhaps there was more internecine discord there 
than in anv other city of Christian history. Every one who 
has read Kingsley's book will remember the fate of Hypatia 
and the character the author gives to the fierce monks and 
priests. Arius, Athanasius, Cyril, Nestorius, and many a 
relentless sectarian contributed their share to Alexandrine 
discord. 

POMPEY^S PILLAR AND THE CATACOIVIBS 

Few relics of Alexandria's former greatness remain ; the 
most interesting are Pompey's Pillar and the Catacombs. 
The former consists of a single red-granite shaft about sevent\- 
feet high. It was erected by a Roman prefect of Egypt in 
the reign of Diocletian. It can be easily reached by tram 
from the Mohammed Aly Square in about ten minutes. 

A short distance west of Pompey's Pillar are the Cata- 
combs. Among them are many interesting tombs of the first 
four centuries a.d. One fine tomb of the Roman period 
was discovered in 1900, and is well worth a visit. It has 
most interesting and beautiful reliefs both in Egyptian and 
Roman style. Professor Wallis Budge in Messrs. Cook's 
guide-book goes into details fully and with admirable pre- 
cision. 

The two obelisks known as " Cleopatra's Needles " once 
stood in Alexandria, but they have been removed and are 
now, one in London and the other in New York. 



130 



ALEXANDRIA 



THE MUSEUM 

The Museum is situated in a turning off the Rue Rosette. 
It is under the care of Dr. Botti, and contains many anti- 
quities, principally of the Grseco- Roman period. 



MARIOUT RAILWAY 

To the west of Alexandria is the terminus of H.H. the 
Khedive's railway. The line runs south-westwards parallel 
to the coast for a distance of about 110 miles. 

There are many Bedouin settlements on the way, and the 
country, which a few years ago was waste land and desert, 
is becoming populated, and now thrives under the influence 
of the railway. 

RUINS OF ST. MENAS 

The ruins of the city of St. Menas, the patron saint of Chris- 
tian Egypt, were, strange to say, only discovered two years 
ago by the researches of German archaeologists. The city is 
a few hours' ride to the north of Behig, a station on H.H. the 
Khedive's railway. We owe the information given here to 
the courtesy of Rowland Snelling, Esq., of Alexandria, who 
wrote two admirable articles on the discoveries at Mariout 
in the Egyptian Gazette for April 17 and 20, 1907. 

" Mariout was a species of Egyptian Lourdes, a city of 
pilgrimage. The pilgrims used to bear away terra-cotta 
ampullae or flasks of the holy water of St. Menas. Some of 
these flasks are to be found in every museum in Europe. 
St. Menas was martyred in Phrygia in 296 a.d. His body 
was brought to Alexandria and placed on a camel, and the 
beast allowed to wander as he chose. He stopped near Lake 
Mareotis. A tomb was built there which possessed miracu- 
lous powers. Followed a church and then a town. A great 
basilica was erected in the reign of Arcadius (395-408 a.d.). 

" The earliest extant account of it is from an unknown 
Arab traveller, who visited it probably in the tenth century. 
The description is contained in a manuscript in the Paris 
Library, and is as follows : ' Leaving Tarraneh and follow- 
ing the road towards Barca, one comes to Mena, which con- 
sists of three abandoned towns in the midst of a sandy desert, 

131 



p: c^ y p t, and h o w to see it 

with their buildings still standing. The Arabs use it as a 
place for lying in wait for travellers. There may be seen 
lofty and well-built palaces with enclosure walls around 
them. They are for the most part built over vaulted colon- 
nades, and some few serve as dwellings for monks. There 
are some springs of fresh water, but they are somewhat 
scanty. Next one comes to the church of St. Menas, a huge 
building decorated with statues and paintings of the greatest 
beauty. There tapers burn day and night without ceasing. 
At one end of the church is a vast tomb with tAvo camels in 
marble, and upon them the statue of a man carved in marble, 
who is standing with one foot upon each camel. One of his 
hands is open and the other closed. This statue is said to 
represent St. Menas. On the right as you enter the church 
is a great marble column, in which a shrine is carved con- 
taining figures of Jesus, John, and Zacharias. There is also 
to be seen a statue of the Virgin Mary, hidden by two cur- 
tains, and statues of all the prophets. Outside the church 
are figures representing all kinds of animals and men of all 
occupations. Among others is a slave merchant holding 
in his hand a purse upside down. Over the midst of the church 
is a dome, beneath which are eight figures said to represent 
angels. Close to the church is a mosque, where the Moslems 
come to pray. All the surrounding land is planted with 
fruit trees. The fruit is very good, and used for making 
syrup. There are also a great many vines from which wine 
is made.' 

" This description proves that for long after the Arab con- 
quest, although the city was uninhabited, yet it w^as still 
intact, but the unknown Arab traveller wrote these lines 
in the tenth century, before the conquest of England by the 
Normans, and from that time until June 1905 the marble city 
of the patron saint of Egypt remained lost amidst the wilds 
of ^lariout. The vines and fruit trees have all gone, the 
springs are dried up, and not a single visitor save the wan- 
dering Bedouin has ever passed by the ruined basilicas and 
monasteries of the Lourdes of Christian Egypt. Although 
the feast of St. Menas has always been kept up by the Or- 
thodox. Jacobite, and Abyssinian Churches, and the flasks 
of the holy oil of the saint have been collected in all the 
museums of Europe, the mystery surrounding the site of 
the city appeared to be as insoluble as that of the equally 
recondite Wady-el-Malook in T^nper Egypt, until the learned 

132 



ALEXANDRIA 



world of Europe was lately apprised of the fact that the city 
had at last been found by two German savants, the Rev. 
C. M. Kaufmann and Mr. Edward Falls. After arduous 
search they arrived, thanks to the chance indications of a 
Bedouin boy who had discovered a singularly perfect ampulla, 
at the site of the city. 

" On excavating they discovered four basilicas, the crypt 
of St. Menas, the great baptistery, and many other sacred 
buildings and baths. The basilica of the emperor must 
have been a most impressive structure. It was covered 
with marble and supported by fifty columns. A quantity 
of beautifully sculptured capitals still remains. There is 
also a series of sepulchral chambers underground. The 
tomb and the crypt are also interesting, and must have been 
beautifully decorated with mosaics. In the holy well, a 
great cistern eighty-six metres long, have been discovered 
thousands of ampullae. 

" The Monastery or Koinobion of St. Menas — the most 
interesting of all the remains — was the finest in the whole of 
Northern Africa. 

"When the city was first discovered the site was covered 
with a series of low mounds. There was not a wall or trace 
of a building to be seen. But since this part began to be 
excavated great progress has been made, in spite of the 
difficult nature of the work. The pavements of fifty rooms, 
corridors, and halls have been unearthed at from four to 
five metres underground. Entering by a portico, which was 
formerly vaulted, the visitor can inspect a series of rooms. 
Two courts with large cisterns have been opened up, and a 
great deal of marble and blocks of fine granite — the latter 
probably from Taposiris Magna — are to be seen. In this 
part of the convent some curious little statues of monkeys 
were found. In the baths of the Koinobion numbers of 
amphorae and ampullae for holy water were discovered, many 
of them with inscriptions. The Rev. C. M. Kaufmann 
considers, -from the various pottery ovens found here, that 
all the ampullae of St. Menas which have been found else- 
where, such as at Kom - el - Shougafa, were made in the 
factory here, for over eighty different kinds of ampullae have 
been found lately in the ruins, and many thousands more 
are still buried in the earth. Among other noteworthy 
buildings are the baths connected with the baptistery. They 
were fitted with waiting-rooms and supplied from large 

133 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

cisterns twenty-two metres deep. A reservoir, forty by 
seventy metres, has been found close by. In another part 
of the Koinobion a dining-hall has been discovered. It was 
probably reserved for distinguished guests. Here was 
found a magnificent relief in white marble. The roof of 
this hall was supported by columns, and the walls were 
covered with marble and porphyry. The Rev. C. M. Kauf- 
mann informs us that, judging from the numerous fine 
capitals which have of late been found on the w^est side of 
the monastery, he hopes to come upon the church of St. 
Thekla, which is mentioned in the life of the saint. This 
church w^as within the Koinobion, and probably some highly 
important discoveries wdll be made there." 



ABOUKIR 

A very pleasant excursion may be made to Aboukir, a 
small village about ten miles east of Alexandria, along the 
coast. It has much historical interest, both ancient and 
modern. Near it stood the great city of Canopus in Ptole- 
maic times, and here the Canopic branch of the Nile entered 
the sea. According to Seneca, Canopus was chiefly remark- 
able for the luxury and depravity of its inhabitants. 

In later times Aboukir is famous as giving its name to 
Nelson's great battle and victory over the French fleet in 
1798. Napoleon defeated the Turkish army in 1799 at 
Aboukir, and his army was defeated there by Sir Ralph 
Abercrombie in 1801. 

There are frequent trains to Aboukir from Sidi-Gaber 
^Alexandria-Ramleh Railway Company's station). The 
journey occupies about thirty-five minutes. The following 
are the best trains : 

From Sidi Gaber : 10.50 a m , 2.0 and 4.10 p.m. 
,, Aboukir: 1.10, 4.55, 7.0, and 8.35 p M. 

The fares are : 1st class, single, 4 pt. ; return, 6 pt. 
2nd ,, „ 3 ,, ; ,, 4 ,, 

A good way of making the expedition is to go to Aboukir 
by railway and on the return to charter donkeys and ride 
back to San Stefano along the coast. From San Stefano 
the electric tram takes one to Alexandria in a few minutes 

134 



ALEXANDRIA 



The sea-shore at Aboukir is of sand, smooth and fine, and 
it makes a good place for a picnic. 



ROSETTA 

A visit to Rosetta makes a whole day's expedition from 
Alexandria. 

The trains are as follows : 

A.M. P.M. AM. P M. 

Alexandria . 7.30 3.20 Rosetta . . 6. 4 3 53 

Sidi-Gaber . 7.44 3.34 Sidi-Gaber . 8.35 6. 2 

Rosetta . .9.36 5.50 Alexandria . 8.45 6.15 

Fares : 1st class, 34^ pt. ; 2nd class, 17-J pt. 

The journey itself is interesting. At first are the gardens 
of Ramleh, then the summer palace of H.H. the Khedive at 
Montaza is passed. Then the line threads the narrow strip 
of land between the sea on the left and Lake Edkou on the 
right. Maadieh and Edkou are resorts of fishers, and their 
bright-coloured, flat-bottomed boats with high curling prows 
are seen on the edge of the lake. In winter vast flocks of 
water-fowl can be seen on the water. Between Boussili 
and Rosetta is mostly desert, relieved at intervals by tiny 
villages amid their palms and fruit trees. 

Rosetta is a town of considerable size, but its population 
has dwindled, so that most of the houses appear to be empty. 
It stands on the western branch of the Nile, near its mouth. 
For this reason it used to be a port of considerable importance, 
until, when the Mahmoudieh Canal was cut, the trade of the 
Delta was diverted to Alexandria. There is still a con- 
siderable industry in rice. 

The streets are lined with curious, old-world houses, 
standing aloof, as if Rosetta had long retired from the active 
race for prosperity. 

The town is memorable for one great discovery, the " Ro- 
setta Stone," now in the British Museum. On this stone is 
engraved a decree which is written in three forms — ancient 
Egyptian hieroglyphics, Demotic characters, and Greek. It 
was discovered in 1799, and formed the first key with which 
the inscriptions of ancient Egypt were deciphered. 

Sonnini, who visited Egypt in 1777, is enthusiastic over 
the " rich, fertile, and beautiful country, the gardens, tho 

135 



EGYPT, AND HOW TO SEE IT 

odoriferous hedges, encircling bowers still more fragrant. 
Everything seems to grow by chance ; the orange- and the 
lemon-tree intertwine their boughs, and the pomegranate 
hangs by the side of the anone (custard apple)." The writer 
evidently saw Rosetta in much better case than it is to-day. 
It is, however, a pleasant place in which to spend a few hours. 



136 




In the Oasis of Siwa 



CHAPTER VIII 



ISMAILI A — SUEZ — THE CANAL — THE 
PENINSULA OF SINAI AND THE 
OASES 

CAIRO TO ISMAILIA 

For two hours one traverses the Delta, swiftly and smoothly, 
through rich cotton and corn land, bridging canals that flow 
peacefully between long rows of mimosa-trees. To the right 
is the pale rose border of low hills that stretch from Marg 
past Belbeis, along the desert line to Abou-Hammad. There 
the cultivation ceases. From Abou-Hammad to Tel-el-Kebir 
is sand — uncompromising sand, and only sand. 

The brief halt at Tel-el-Kebir shows the cemetery on the 
right hand — a green patch, quiet with memories. Again 
there is sand and waste until Ismailia is reached. There is 
complete change — a leafy hamlet in the midst of desert. 
Everywhere is thick foliage of lebbek-trees above carpets of 
flowers and vegetation, intersected by straight white loads. 

137 K 



ISM A I LI A TO SUP:Z 



From Ismailia station the road leads straight to the lake, 
down the avenue that crosses the canal. There one msiy 
well pause at the bridge. The bank is a mass of colour — 
red, orange, white, and blue flowers. Below, the boats 
lounge past under the trees. 

Everything is lazy and peaceful, bathed in warm sunlight. 
Here and there, down the road, appear neat small houses — 
bungalows, rather ; their verandahs, that tell of easy-going, 
outdoor life, are gay with many-coloured creepers. Here 
are no Arab huts, no strenuous shops, nothing but acclima- 
tised quiet. 

Then com_es the lake — vivid, deep blue. The far-off Asian 
bank is vivid golden sand, against which stands out the 
least mark, shrubs or stumps of black wood. Even the 
steamers, passing up and down, appear black in the keen 
sunlight. It is all restful, full of calm light and colour. 

The trains run as follows : 

A M. A.M. P.M. AM. P.M. P.M. 

Cairo . 7.0 11.0 6.15 Ismailia. 9.59 2.1 8.17 
IsmaiUa . 10.16 1.59 9.26 Cairo . 1.25 5.0 11.25 
Note. — A restaurant- car is attached to the 11.0 a.m. and 
6.15 P.M. train from Cairo and the 2.1 p.m. and 8.17 p.m. from 
Ismailia. 





a.m. 


P.M. 




A.M. 


P.M. 


Ismailia . 


. 2.15 


9.45 


Suez Docks 


. 7.30 


5.40 


Suez Town 


. 4. 3 


11.33 


Suez Town 


. 7.50 


6. 


Suez Docks 


. 4.20 


11.50 


Ismailia . 


. 9.38 


7.48 



Note. — A through carriage to Suez is attached to the 
11.0 a.m. train from Cairo on Wednesdays, and to Cairo to 
the 5.40 P.M. from Suez on Saturdays. 

Detailed time-tables, page 174. 

Fares : Cairo to Suez, 1st class, 96 J; 2nd class, 48 J. 

,, to Ismailia ,, 70 ; ,, 35. 

Ismailia to Suez ,, 44 J; ,, 22. 

ISMAILIA TO SUEZ 

The journey takes about two hours, throuerh desert land 
all the way. Bordering the line are stretches of marsh. To 
the right are the hills, red- brown ; to the left the Canal. 
One can only see the canal momentarily where it appears, 
blue as the curved blade of a Damascus sword. The only 
sign of the waterway is the mast or funnel of some ship 
gliding slowly from station to station. 

The wind blows keen, clean, and increasing across tlic 

13<) 



EGYPT. A N I^ HOW TO SEE IT 

line. At last come fields, trees, houses, and then Suez (Suez 
Town) — a dusty old town, stretching in untidy detachments 
down to the sea. 

The train passes through the town and comes out upon a 
long causeway leading to Suez Docks. 

Round the docks is a small to\Mi in itself, and the cleanest, 
pleasantest part of Suez. Here are the Canal Co.'s and other 
offices, with the houses of the officials facing a shady boule- 
vard. In front passes the ceaseless stream of shipping, 
entering and leaving the Canal. 

Look seaward. The anchorage is bounded on the right 
by the high red cliffs of Gebel Attakah ; on either side the 
more distant hills tail off, grey- blue, towards the open sea, 
\^'here runs the road to India and the Far East. 

There are two small hotels, the Hotel Bachet and the 
Kotel Bel- Air, but few people stay in Suez unless com- 
pelled by the exigencies of ti'avel. 

THE SUEZ CANAL 

The Canal by day is not profoundly exciting. The pro- 
gress is slow, the scenery unvaried. One should start in the 
late afternoon, and take advantage of the night-time. For 
the night reveals the one feature of the voyage at its best — 
the Bitter Lakes. After a slow and toilsome journey through 
the narrow passage, the ship emerges suddenly into the 
open. The searchlight plays full, brilliant, on the depth of 
dark sky and water. 

Myriad white shapes appear ahead, flitting, dipping, 
skimming, nearing the boat, then retreating, resting on the 
water, quitting it, with slow-flapping wings. When they 
are quite close, under full play of the light, you can see that 
they are pelicans, with their wide wings, long beak, and 
pouch beneath. As they pass under the ray they appear as 
tongues of flame, transparent, mysterious, against the bright 
darkness of the water. 

Here the ships do not stop to exchange courtesies or com- 
bat precedence for tying up. A big P. and 0., or a long, lean 
German Lloyd sheers past almost at full speed, ablaze with 
light. The pilot- boat hangs on for dear life, w^hile the pilot 
ascends or descends the ladder like a trained acrobat. At 
length one's own boat makes the entrance, and from the 
Bitter Lakes the Canal is placid, narrow, and uneventful as far 
as Port Said. 

140 



THE SINAI PENINSULA 

THE SINAI PENINSULA 

A visit to the Sinai Peninsula is an undertaking that 
requires special preparations, and it is best to apply at once 
to Messrs. Cook and Son, who are thorough experts in all 
such matters. They will not only provide all possible and 
necessary means of transport, but will arrange to charge a 
fixed price per day. This saves all bargaining and trouble, 
and is by far the most comfortable and economical process. 

The expedition should take about three weeks, which 
will give plenty of time for seeing the chief objects of interest 

The p3ninsula itself is a mountainous desert, arid and 
desolate, but with its own grandeur, and even fascination. 
It is inhabited by a number of Bedouins, who do a C3rtain 
amount of rather primitive trading in gum-arabic, charcoal, 
and manna from the tamarisk trees. 

The real interest of the desert is its Biblical and Christian 
history. One mav see Horeb, Sinai, and many another spot 
associated with the wanderings of the Chosen People. A 
x'isit should be made to the great monastery of St. Catherine, 
founded by Justinian in 530 a.d. It is the home of many 
famous manuscripts — above all, the Sinai tic Codex of the 
Septuagint, which Tischendorf retrieved after three visits. 
The monastery is rich in relics and memorials of early saints 
— St. Helena, Joachim, Simon Stylites of the Pillar, and 
many another. It is one of the few remaining monuments 
of the dawn of Christianity. 

It is hardly within the scope of this book to enter into a 
full disquisition on all that others have so admirably described 
from intimate knowledge and experience. We will but hint 
at the ancient Church of the Transfiguration, its strange 
mosaics and medallions, and its great library, in which is 
the Codex Aureus — twelve hundred years old, written in gold 
on vellum — the Psalter, and many another treasure of pious 
craftsmanship. A four days' visit is none too long for the 
monastery and all that it can show. 

Another feature of the Sinai Peninsula is its importance as 
a field for mining enterprise. There are records of its having 
been worked as far back as the third dynasty, and the miies 
bear inscriptions by many of the kings from the thirteenth 
to the twentieth dynasties. Little further is heard of the 
peninsula as a whole from B.C. 1200 to the second or third 
centuries of the Christian era. Turquoises, malachite, and 
copper were the chief treasures found. 

Scarcely any attempts of importance have been made as 

141 



e(;ypt. and how to see it 

yet to reopen these mines, but no one can say what future 
efforts may not discover in so rich a field. 

Sarbut-el-Khadem is the centre of that long-dead industry, 
close to Wady-Nasb, where the mines were situated, and 
here are ruins of columns, and stelae with inscriptions. There 
was also a small temple dedicated to Hathor, Lady of Mafkat 
(or the Turquoise Land), and on its walls were records and 
reliefs. 

The traveller who a\ islies to study the Sinaitic Peninsula 
fully will find valuable information in various works. We 
may quote the Palestine Exploration Fund survey as one 
of the best, also Professor HulFs " Mount Seir, Sinai '' 
(London, 1885), Dean Stanlev's " Sinai and Palestine " and 
" Ancient History from the Monuments of Sinai," and last, 
but by no means least in value and interest. Professor Wallis 
Budge's edition of " Cook's Guide-Book " (1904). 

THE OASES 

The oases are small patches of fertile land surrounded by 
desert. Some of them are of considerable extent and have 
a resident population ; others consist of a few palm-trees 
only, clustered round a single spring. A chain of these 
oases runs parallel to the valley of the Nile, and from a hun- 
dred to two hundred miles from it. It is supposed that they 
indicate the former course of the river. 

In ancient history many of the oases were of considerable 
importance. Herodotus mentions them as the " Islands of 
the Blest," and the ancient Egyptian name, " Nabet," signified 
a place of mummies, in that the legend claimed that the 
jackal-headed Anubis conducted the spirits of the dead 
from their tombs in the valley across the mountains and 
desert to their paradise. 

The principal oases, from north to south, are: (1) Siwa, or 
Jupiter Amraon, which is about twenty days' journey west 
of Cairo ; (2) Bahrieh, opposite Minieh ; (3) Farafra, oppo- 
site x\ssiut ; (4) Dakhel and (5) Kharga, due west of Esneh, 
but approached from Farshout ; (6) Kurkur, north-west of 
Kom Ombo ; and (7) Sehma, south-west of Wadi -Haifa. 

It is hardly the province of this book to describe these 
expeditions and their objects at length. They entail special 
journeys of several days by camel. They are, of course, 
highly interesting, but hardly feasible for the majority of 
visitors. 

\V2 



THE OASES 



The Oasis of Siwa, or Jupiter Ammon, is about six miles 
in length and four or five broad. Herodotus tells us that 
Cambysis sent a force of 50 000 men to enslave its in- 
habitants and burn their temple, but a great sandstorm 
engulfed and destroyed them. Alexander the Great visited 
this oasis, and was, the legend says, well received by Ammon, 
the god thereof. It is certain that it was occupied and forti- 
fied, probably as far back as the nineteenth dynasty, and 
many memorials and reliefs are found there to support this. 
The present population is about 7000. The two principal 
towns are Siwa and Akermi, which are usually at feud with 
one another. 

It is perhaps as well for those wishing to visit this oasis 
to apply to the authorities in Cairo, though nowadays there 
is little likelihood of any difficulty arising to prevent expe- 
ditions. 

The Oasis of Bahrieh, or Northern Oasis, is four or five 
days' easy journey from the Fayoum. The population in 
1897 was 6000. 

The Farafra Oasis is midway between Bahrieh and 
Dakhel ; its population is about 540. It is of very small 
area, and can never have been very flourishing. There are a 
certain number of rock tombs to the north, possibly Roman. 
It cfl.n be reached from Minieh in eight days on a good camel. 

The Oasis of Dakhel is seven days from Assiut, or four 
days from the Farafra Oasis. It has over 17,000 inhabitants, 
3000 of these living in its chief village, El-Kasr (the fort). 
There are the ruins of a temple of the Roman period, 
dedicated to Ameri-Ra or Horus of Behutet by Titus and 
other emperors (nowadays called Deir-el-Hargar, or the 
Convent of Stone). The Romans kept a small garrison here, 
and probably it was frequented by recluses in the third, 
fourth, and fifth centuries a.d. Its date trade is fairly con- 
siderable. 

The Oasis of Kharga— the Great Oasis — is about four 
days' camel-ride from Farshout. Recently the Western 
Oases Company have started boring operations for artesian 
wells, with a view to putting a larger area under cultivation. 
A narrow-gauge railway is also being constructed from the 
Nile valley (Kharga Junction on the State railways) to 
Kharga, the capital of the oasis, a distance of about 100 
miles. It is hoped that communication will be complete 
by the winter of 1907-8. 

The oasis has a population of about 7000, and there are 

143 



EGYPT. AND HOW TO SEE IT 

about 450U acres or iana under cultivation at present. The 
principal trade is in dates ; there are some 70,000 date-palms, 
and the fruit is better than that grown a^nywhere in Egypt. 

The principal ancient Egyptian remains are the temple 
of Hibis (B.C. 521), in which is inscribed an interesting hymn 
to the sun-god. At Nadara, near the modern capital, are 
three temples, one of the time of Ptolemy III. (b.c. 240) 
and the other two of the time of Antoninus Pius (150 ad.). 
There are the remains, also, of Roman watch-towers and 
forts, a circular brick-kiln and tombs, probably of the third 
and fourth centuries of the Christian era. Near Ein Tabashir 
are some curious buildings with tiny cubical recesses (eight 
inches across), which mav have been dovecots. 

The Oases of Kurkur and Selima are quite small, and 
of no great interest. JSelima, it is true, was an important 
station on the caravan route for the slave and other trades 
from East and Central Africa through all the oases to Morocco. 

The Wady Natroun, or Natron Valley, is hardly an oasis, 
as there is little or no cultivation. The valley — about 
twentv miles long — has several small salt lakes and is remark- 
able for its alkaline deposits, which furnish salt, sulphate 
and carbonate of soda, and similar products. The Wady- 
Natroun has considerable antiquarian interest, and is com- 
paratively easy of access, being but a few hours from Cairo. 

There used to be a town in the middle of the valley — a 
large settlement of Christian monks. St. Macarius, the 
Egyptian, was the pioneer of these recluses, to the number 
of some 5000, as well as 600 desert anchorites. He is 
supposed to be buried in the monastery which bears his 
name. Ten miles to the west of it is the Monastery of Anaba 
Bishai, and further on the Syrian Monastery (Deir Suriani), 
built by John the Dwarf in the time of Constantine. It 
possessed a fine library, and even now contains three churches, 
the chief of which is dedicated to the Virgin. There is also 
the Monastery of Baramus, six or eight miles further west. 

The Natron Valley and its monasteries have been visited 
by many travellers ever since Egidus Lochiensis in 1633. 
and great stores of manuscripts have been recovered there- 
from. They must have been veritable treasuries, especially 
l)(Mr Suriani. Intending visitors should consult " Visits to 
Monasteries in the Levant," by the Hon. R. Curzon, who 
visited the valley in 1837 (fifth edition, 1865). 



144 



APPENDIX I 

ENGLISH— ARABIC VOCABULARY 

As there are many sounds in Arabic not used in English, it is not always possible 
to express exactly Arabic words with English characters. 

If the following rules are observed, however, an approximation to the Arabic 
sounds will be obtained. 



" a " should be pronounced like the French " a." 

♦' a " „ „ '^ a " in " father." 

"u" 

"oo" 

"kh" 

" gh " is a guttural combination of ' 

" r " should always be rolled. 



oo " in " roof." 
oo " in " book.' 
ch " in " loch." 
' and " r." 



TRAVELLING 



Bag 

Boat, sailing 
"■ ,, rowing 
Booking office 
Cab 

Cab driver 
Camel 

Carriage (railway) 
Cart (baggage) 
Class, first 
Class, second 
Custom house 
Dining-car 
Donkey 
Express 
Fare 
Ferry 
Guard 
Luggage 
Platform 
Porter 



shanta 
markeh 
felluca 

maktab-et-tazaker 
araheeya 
arbaggy 
gamal 
arabeeya 
carrox 

daraga breemo 
daraga secundo 
gumrook 
arabeeyat el akel 
homdr 
egsbres 
oogra 
ma'adeeya 
comsdry 
afsh 
rasseef 
shayyal 



Railway 
Sleeping-car 
Station 

Station-master 
Telegraph office 
Telegram 
Ticket 
Train 

Take my baggage 
Fetch me a cab 
Are you disen- 
gaged ? 
What is the fare ? 
Straight on 
Turn round 
Stop 
Turn to the right 

„ left 
Quickly 
Slowly 
By the hour 



sikket hadeed 

arabeeyat en-nom 

mahatta 

ndzer el mahatta 

maktab et-ielegraf 

telegraf 

tazkara 

babur, 'attr 

khod afshi 

hat arabeeya 

enta fddi 

kam el oogra 

dOghry 

do war 

stanna 

yemeenak 

shemdlak 

'awam, bil agel 

bishivesh 

bil sa'ah 



THE TOWN, SHOPS, &c. 



Baker 


fardn 


Bootmaker 


gazmaggy 


Bridge 


koobry 


Butcher 


gazzar 


Chemist 


as.za,ggy 



Church 


kineesa 


The citadel 


el- all a' a 


Hospital 


esbetallia 


Hotel 


he an da 


House 


buyt, phi. bny-ut 


Uo 


I. 



APPENDIX I 





THE TOWN, SHOPS, &c.— continued. 




J eweller 


gou-a-hir-gy 


School 


madrassa 


Merchant 


tdger 


Shop 


dokdn 


Mosque 


gam eh' 


Shopkeeper 


sahi'j-ed-dokdn 


The museum 


antecka-hdna 


Square 


nieeddn 


Policeman 


shaxveesh 


Street 


shareh' 


Police station 


caracol 


Telegraph office 


ct-telegraf 


The post office 


el bosta 


Tram 


tramway 




THE COUNTRY, EGYPT, &c. 




Alexandria 


eskayxdarcea 


Mountain 


gabal 


Cairo 


masr 


The Nile 


en neel 


Canal 


teera'a 


River 


el bahr 


Country 


aree-dff 


Road 


sikka 


The desert 


cl khalla 


Rock 


hagar 


Earth 


ard 


Sand 


rami 


Egypt 


masr 


The sea 


el bahr 


„ Upper 


el tvagh el 'ibly 


Skv 


sama 


,, Lower 


el wagh el bahary 


Star 


negma 


Europe 


uroba 


Stone 


hagar 


Hill 


tel 


The sun 


esh-shams 


Island 


gezireh 


To\vn 


medeena 


Lake 


birka 


Valley 


waddy 


Land 


atiian 


Village 


belad 


Moon 


dmar 


The world 


ed-dunya 




HOUSEHOLD 




Basin 


tisht 


Key 


mooftah 


Bath 


hammam 


Kitchen 


matbakh 


Bed 


sereer 


Kitchen range 


fiirn 


Bell 


garras 


Lamp 


lamba, fanfis 


Blanket 


bxttaneea 


Lock 


kalun 


Candle 


shama' 


Mattress 


murtaba 


Candlestick 


shama' dan 


Mirror 


mirra-ya 


Carpet 


bussnt, sigardeh 


Mosquito net 


nam usee a 


Chair 


kiirsy 


Pillow 


makhada 


Clock 


sa'ah 


Pillow-case 


kees-el-makhada 


Closet 


bayt el addab 


Roof 


sa-af 


Cupboard 


duldb 


Sheet 


melai-yah 


Curtain 


setara 


Soap 


saboon 


Door 


bab 


Staircase 


sillim 


Drawer 


dorg 


Table 


tarabayza 


Filter 


filtr 


„ dining 


soofra 


Floor 


ardee-ya 


Towel 


fiUah hammam 


Garden 


genayna 


Wall 


hayta 


House 


bayt 


Window 


shebbak, plu. sheba- 


Jug 


abreek 




beek 



MEALS, FOOD, &c. 



Apple 


toofdh^ 


Beer 


beera 


Apricot 


mish-niish 


Bottle 


gazaz 


Banana 


moz 


Bread 


aysh 


Beans 


fid 


Breakfast 


fatUr 


Beef 


lahm ba'ary 


Butler 


suffrdgy 


^ 




146 





APPENDIX I 





MEALS, FOOD, &c.— continued. 




Butter 


zibda 


Meat 


Lahma 


Cabbage 


ciirrumb 


Melon (water) 


shammam, battikh 


Carrot 


gazay 


Milk 


laban 


Cheese 


gibna 


Mustard 


mustayda 


Chicken 


farkha 


Mutton 


lahma ddny 


Cigarettes 


saga-yey 


Napkin 


futa 


Coffee 


'ah-wa 


Nuts 


bUndu' 


Cork 


filla 


Oil 


zayt 


Corkscrew 


bayeemci 


Olive 


zaytiin 


Cucumber 


kheeay 


Onion 


basset 


Cup 


fmgan, plu. anage. 


?;i Orange 


bo/to' an 


Dates 


ballah 


Pear 


kommetya 


Decanter 


'oollah 


Peas 


b is s ilia 


Dinner 


a'asha 


Pepper 


fll-fll 


Drinks 


mushyubat 


Plate 


sahn, plu. suhiin. 


Eggs 


bayd 


Pork 


I ihii khznzeey 


Figs 


teen 


Potatoes 


batatis 


Fish 


samuk 


Rice 


yHz 


Flour 


da'eek 


Salt 


m%lh 


Food 


akel 


Sauce 


salsa 


Fork 


shoka 


Soup 


shoyba 


Fruit 


fyidci 


Spinach 


sabanikh 


Glass (tumbler) 


cubbai-ya 


Spoon 


ma'allaga 


Grapes 


'enab 


Strawberries 


fyowla 


Jam 


meyyiibba 


Sugar 


siikkey 


Kidney 


kelouy 


Sweet (pudding) 


hel-u 


Knife 


sekeeni 


Table-cloth 


ghat% es-soofya 


Lamb 


khayuf 


Tea 


shai 


Lemon 


limun 


Tomatoe 


tomdtini 


Lemonade 


limondda 


Veal 


lahma agdly 


Lettuce 


khass 


Vegetables 


khodayat 


Liver 


kibda 


Vinegar 


khall 


Luncheon 


ghadda 


Wine 


nebeet 


Mandarine 


Yiisef-effendi 








MANKIND, RELATIONS 




Boy 


walad 


Man 


rdgel, plu. yigala 


Bride 


ayussa 


Mother 


umm 


Brother 


akh 


People 


nas 


Daughter 


bint 


Sister 


ukht 


Family 


'Ua 


Son 


ibn 


Father 


abb 


Widov/ 


azaba 


Girl 


bint 


Wife 


zogah \ 


Husband 


zog 


Woman 


sitt 




PARTS 


OF THE BODY 




Arm 


diya'a 


Hair 


sha'ar 


Back 


dahy 


Hand 


eed 


Blood 


dam 


Head 


ras 


Body 


gism 


Heart 


'alb 


Bone 


adm 


Leg 


sak 


Brain 


mookh 


Mouth 


font 


Ears 


widdn 


Nose 


manakhcer 


Eyes 


ayn 


Skin 


flild 


Face 


wish 


Stomach 


batn 


Finger 


soba'a 


Teeth 


sindn 


Foot 


yigel 







h 



147 



APPENDIX I 







CLOTHES, &c. 


Boots 


gizam 


Rug 


Brush 


fiirsha 


Scisscrs 


Button 


zordr 


Shawl 


Clothes 


hednm 


Shirt 


Coat 


sitra'a 


Shppers 


Collar 


ya'ah 


Socks 


I^rawoFS 


libbas 


Sponge 


Gloves 


aldiwan 


Stick 


Great-coat 


balto 


Stud 


Handkerchief 


mandeel 


Suit of clothes 


Hat 


bornayta 


Thread 


\eedle 


ibra 


Tie 


Pin 


dubbiis 


Trousers 


Pocket 


gayb 


Waistcoat 


Razor 


moos 





hattaneea 

7na'ass 

shal 

'amees 

shibshib 

shorabat 

suffinga 

assay-ya 

zordr 

badla 

kheit 

bofnbaah 

bantahln 

seederv 



PROFESSIONS, TRADES, &c. 



Carpenter 

Clerk 

Coachman 

Consul 

Cook 

Doctor 

Donkey boy 

Doorkeeper 

Engineer 

Gardener 

Groom 

Guide ! 

Interpreter > 



naggar 


Messenger 


$ai-ee 


kdtib 


Officer 


zdbet 


arbaggy 


Policeman 


shaweesh 


'onsul 


Porter 


shayyal 


tabbdkh 


Postman 


bostaggy 


hakeem 


Servant 


haddam, plu. 


hanimdr 




7neen 


bowab 


Soldier 


askerry 


muhandez 


Tailor 


khayyat, tarzy 


ganayny 


Washerman 


ghassdl 


syse 


Watchman 


ghaffeer 


terrgomdn 







hadda- 



ANIMALS, &c. 



Ant 


jiajjil 




Goose 


icizz 


Bird 


tayr 




Hawk 


sakr 


Buffalo 


gammus 




Hornet 


dabbiir 


Calf 


egle 




Horse 


hussan, plu. khail 


Cat 


'ottah 




Kite 


hedayya 


Camel 


gam a I 




Mosquito 


nam lis 


Chicken 


fahkha 




Mule 


bagl 


Cow 


ba'ara 




Pig 


khanzeer 


Crow 


ghitrdb 




Piiieon 


ha mam 


Dog 


kalb 




Quail 


simmdn 


Donkey 


ho mar 




Rabbit or hare 


arnab 


Duck 


batt 




Rat or mouse 


far 


Elea 


bar gh lit. 


plu. bara- 


Scorpion 


a'raba 




gheet 




Sheep 


kharuf 


l-ly 


dubbdna 


,plu. diib- 


Snake 


ieabdn 




bdn 




Snipe 


bekasseen 


Gazelle 


gazala 




Turkey 


dik rumy 


Goat 


gidye 









148 



APPENDIX I 



Brass 
Copper 
Gold 
Iron 



Black 
Blue 
Brown 
Colour 



1 tudhid 

2 etnayn 

3 taldtd 

4 arba'a 

5 khamsa 
(y sitta 

7 saba'a 

8 tamanioL 

9 tissa'a 

Once 
Twice 

Three times 
Half 
Quarter 
Date 
Sunday- 
Monday 
Tuesday 
Wednesday 
Thursday 
Friday 
Saturday 
Summer 
Winter 



Age 

Air 

Answer 

Antiquities 

Axe 

Bag 

Ball 

Basket 

Bill 

Bird 

Blotting-paper 

Book ^ 

Box 

Boot polish 

Bridge 





METALS 




nahass asfar 


Lead 


rUsass 


nahass ahmar 


Silver 


fudda 


dahab 


Steel 


sfdb 


hadeed 

( 


Tin 
COLOURS 


suffee-eh 


iswid 


Green 


akhdar 


azra' 


Red 


ahmar 


asmar 


White 


abiad 


Ion 


Yellow 


asfar 


NUMERALS, DATES, &c. 




10 'ashara 


19 tissa' iasliar 


60 sitteen 


11 hedashar 


20 eshreen 


70 saba'een 


12 einashar 


21 wdhid ou esh- 


80 tamaneeri 


13 talatashcir 


reen 


90 iissa'een 


14 arbaHcishar 


30 talateen 


100 meeva 


15 khamstashar 31 wdhid on t^la- 


1030 alf ' 


16 sittashar 


teen 


1st el awal 


17 saba'tashar 


40 arba'een 


2nd ettdnv 


18 tamantashar 


50 khamseen 


3rd eitdlit 


inarm 


Year 


Sana, plu. senccn 


mar retain 


Month 


shahr, plu. ash-hur 


teldt niarrdt 


Week 


guma'' 


nuss 


Day 


yom, plu. ai-yam 


robh 


Hour 


sa'ah, plu. sa'at 


iareekh 


Minute 


dagayg 


yom el hadd 


Morning 


sobh 


yom el etnayn 


Afternoon 


bd'd ed-doh/ 


yom et-taldt 


Night 


layl 


yom el arba' 


To-day 


en-nah%r-da 


yom el khamees 


Yesterday 


embareh 


yom el guma' 


To-morrow 


bookrah 


yom es-sapt 


Last week 


el guma' elly fdtet 


sayf 


Next week 


el guma' elly gai-ya 


sheeta 


NOUNS 




omr 


Cartridge 


khcirtilsh 


houah 


Case 


elba 


radd 


Certificate 


sha-hdda 


anteeka 


Chain 


cateena 


balta 


Change (money) 


fakka 


shanta 


Cigarettes 


sagd-ver 


korah 


Clerk 


kdtib " 


sabat 


Cloth (stuff) 


'unidsh 


hissdb 


Coal 


fahm 


tayr 


Cotton 


'otn 


warra" nashdf 


Cream 


ishia 


kitdb 


Day 


yom 


sandiik 


Dust 


lordb 


boy-a 


East 


shay 


koobry 


Envelope 

149 


zarf 



APPENDIX I 





NOUNS— coniinued. 


Face 


wish 


Piastre 


Feather 


reesh 


Piastre, half 


Ferry 


ma'adeeya 


Piece 


Fire 


nar 


Place 


Flowers 


ward 


Postage stamp 


Fool 


magniir 


Pound (money) 


Friend 


sahib 


Pound (weight) 


•God 


'allah 


Price 


Gentleman, Mr. 


khawdga 


Question 


Grass 


hasheesh 


Rain 


•Guide 


terrgomdn 


Receipt 


Gun 


biindilkee-ya 


Reward 


Hammer 


ahakilsh 


Rope 


Handle 


eed 


Saddle 


Ice 


talg 


Sail 


Ink 


hibr 


School 


Inkstand 


da-wai-yeh 


Screw 


Interpreter 


miitargim 


Servant 


Judge 


'ady 




Lady 


sin 


Side 


Leaf 


war r a' a 


Skin 


Leather 


gild 


Smell 


Letter 


gou-ab, plu. g; 


wabat Smoke 


Light 


nxir 


Soldier 


Line 


khait, plu. hhc 


:iilt South 


Market 


suk 


Stable 


Master 


seed 


Star 


Matches 


kabrcet 


String 


Messenger 


sai-ee 


The sun 


Middle 


woost 


Temple 


Monev 


felliis 


Thief 


Nail 


moosmar 


Thing 


Name 


ism 


Time 


News 


khabber 


Tobacco 


Newspaper 


goorndl 


Tomb 


Noise 


ghdgha 


Tree 


North 


bahry 


Wage 


Oar 


mu'ddf 


Watch 


Officer 


zdbet 


Water 


•Order 


amr 


Weather 


Page 


sahcefa 


Weight 


Paint 


boy-a 


West 


Paper 


warra' 


Wheel 


Parcel 


iard 


Whip 


Peasant 


fellah 


Wind 


Pen 


'alam 


Wire 


Pencil 


*alam rusass 


Wood 


Petition 


lallab 


Word 


Petroleum 


gdz^ 


Work 
ADJECTIVES 


AU 


hull 


Boiled 


Angrv 


zdldn 


Broker. 


Bad 


battdl 


Busy 


Better 


ah'san 


Cheap 


fiig 


kebeer 


Cold 

150 



host a 



'eersh, plu. "onrush 

tareefa 

hiita 

mahal 

warra' 

guinee 

rutl 

iaman 

su-dl 

matar 

wassl 

baksheesh 

habl, plu. hibd^ 

sarg 

alia' a 

inadrassa- 

alla'oz 

khadaain, plu. Mud- 

danieen 
barr 
gild 
reeha 
dokhdn 

askerry, plu. asarher 
'ibly 
establ 

negma, plu. noogi.m 
diibara 



ish-shems 

birba 

hardmy 

hdga, plu. ha gat 

sa'ah 

dokhdn 

torba 

shagara, plu. ashgor 

oogra, maheeya 

sa'ah 

moyya 

hou-ah 

'ivazn 

gharb 

'a gal a 

kurbag 

reeh 

silk 

khashab 

kalma, plu. kalemit 

shooghl 



maslu 

maksUr 

ftiashghfil 

rakhees 

bdrid 



APPENDIX I 





AD J ECTIVES— continued. 




Dead 


ma-yit 


More 


aktar 


Deep 


ghoweet 


Narrow 


da-ya' 


Difficult 


sdb 


New 


gedeed 


Dirty 


wissekh 


Nice 


kwa-yees 


Drunk 


sakrdn 


Old 


'adeem, agftz (age) 


Dry 


ndshif 


Open 


maftuh 


Eas}^ 


khafeef 


Other 


tdny 


Empty 


fddy 


Perfect 


tarn- dm 


English 


ingleesy 


Plenty 


ze-adda 


Every 


kull 


Polite 


mu-addab 


Except 


ilia 


Poor 


fa'eer 


Expensive 


ghdly 


Pretty 


gameel 


Fat 


simeen, takheen 


Private 


khosUsy 


Fine 


kwa-yees 


PubUc 


umiimy 


Free 


fddy 


Quiet 


hddy 


French 


fransowy 


Ready 


hdder 


Fresh 


tdza 


Rich' 


ghdny 


Full 


maliyan 


Right 


ta-yib 


German 


almdny 


Round 


m,edowar 


Good 


td-yib 


Safe 


ameen 


Greek 


filmy 


Same 


zay-bddu 


Happv 


sa-yeed 


Sharp (cute) 


sharter 


Hard' 


gdmed 


Sharp (edged) 


masniin 


Heavy 


ta'eel 


Shut 


ma'fUl 


High' 


'dly 


Smooth 


na-yem 


Honest 


shareef 


Soft 


faree 


Hungrv 


go" an 


Square 


mir-abba' 


111 


a-ee-yan 


Strong 


'ow-wy 


Important 


mohem 


Tall 


'dly, toweel 


Italian 


ialidny 


Thick 


takheen 


Large 


keheer 


Thin 


rofai-ya 


Last 


dkker 


Thirsty 


atshdn 


Lazy 


kasldn 


Tired 


tdbdn 


Light 


khafeef 


Wet 


mabiai 


Long 


toweel 


Whole 


kullu 


Low 


wd-tee 


Wide 


wasseh 


Many 


keteer 


Wrong 


ghaltdn 







ADVERBS, &c. 




After 


bd'd 


Late 


wakhyy 


Afterwards 


bd'dayn 


Much 


keteer 


Alone 


wahedu 


Near 


oord-yeb 


Always 


temelly 


Nearly 


td'reeban 


At once 


dilwd't 


Never 


abadan 


Before 


'abl 


Only 


buss 


Behind 


warra 


Opposite 


'ooddm 


Between 


bayn 


Outside 


burr a 


Direct 


alia till 


Perhaps 


yimkin 


Downstairs 


taht 


Punctually 


7nusbut 


Early 


badry 


Quickly 


bil agel 


Enough 


buss 


Since 


niin 


Far 


ba-yeed 


Still 


lissa 


Front 


'oodddm 


There 


henak 


Here 


hena 


Upstairs 


fo' 


Inside 


gii-wa 


Very 
151 


keteer, 'ow-wy 



APPENDIX 1 



VERBS 
Unless otherwise stated, the imperative of the verb is given. 



Asree, I 
Allow, I shall 

(I shall not . . .) 
Ask 
Beat 

(do not . . .) 
Becjin 
Broke, I 
Buy 

Can you ? 
Call 
Care, take 

Come (imp.) 

(I come) 

(I came) 

(he came) 
Cut 

Dress, I 
Drink, I 
Drive 
Eat, I 

(he ate) 
Fear, I 

(do not . . .) 
Fetch 
Fill 
Finish 
Forgot, I 

(do not . . .) 
Give me 

(I gave) 
Go 

(I am going) 

(going) 

(gone) 
Hear, I 
Help 

Hire, I wish to 
Hold 

Insulted me, He 
Know, I don't 

(do you , . . ?) 
Learn 

(I am . . . ing) 
Leave (let remain) 
Like, I 

(do you . . . ?) 
Listen 
Look for 
Look at 
Make 
Mean, I 

(what do you . . .? 
Mend 
Necessary, It is 

(must) 



a'abil 

assarah 

massarahsh 

essal 

edriib 

ma-tedrubsh 

cbtiddy 

kasert 

eshterry 

ti'der 

cndah 

hasseb, hally 

bulla k 
tadla 
aggy 
gayt 

etaa 
albis 
a shrub 
arkeb 
'dkal 
a kill 
kha-yeef 
ma-takhafsh 
geeb, hat 
emlah 
ekh-las 
tiesseet 
ina-iin-sash 
cddeeny 
eddayt 
ruh 
aroh 
rd-ya 
rd 

aswa'a 
sd-id 

au'z a'agga 
imsik 
shatum-ni 
nwosh-' drraf 
ta'drraf 
ia'dllim 
be-tdllim 
seeb 
a-heb 
tc-heb 
esma'a 
dowar alia 
shi'tf 
'am el 
yani 
\ yani ay 
sallah 

Idzim 



Obey 

Open 

Ordered, I 

Pack 

Pay, I shall 

(I have paid) 
Play, I 
Pour out 
Prepare 
Put 

(past) 
Read 

(past) 
Receive 

(past) 
Reply 

(past) 
Return 

(I shall) 
Ride 

(I wush to . . .) 
Row 
Run 
Say 

(I said) 
See, I 

(I saw) 
Seize 

(he seized) 
Sell me 

(he sold) 
Show me 
Shut 

Sit down please 
Sleep, I 

(past) 
Smoke, I 
Sorry, I am 
Speak 

(I spoke) 
Start, I 

(past) 
Stole, he 
Swim, do you ? 
Take 

(I took) 
Talk, don't 

(he is . . . ing) 
Teach 
Tell me 
Think, I 

(do you ?) 
Tidy up 
Tie up 

Truth, speak the 
Understand, I don" 

(do you . . . ?) 
152 



id-weh 
efia 
'oolt 
satief 
ha-edfa 
daffdt 
a-la'ab 
farragh 
huddar 
hott 
hutt 
e'ra 
a'rayt 
estilim 
wassalny 
rudd 
ruddayt 
erga 
harga 
erkeb 
owz-arkeb 
addif 
egry 
ool 
ooH 
ashuf 
shoo ft 
imsik 
messek 
bee' el y 
ba'eh 
warreenv 
i'fil 

et fadl, o'od 
an am 
nemt 

ashreb dokhdii 
ma'alaysh 
k2llem 
kallemt 
esdfar 
safert 
sara' 

ta'druf ie'ooin 
khod 
khut 
cskut 
yatkalem 
'allim 
ool-ly 
azun 
teziln 
ratteb 
erbut 

et kail em doghry 
t moosh fahem 
fehemt 



APPENDIX I 







\TERBS- 


— continued. 




Use 


estame 




W\is, I 


hunt 


Wait (for me) 


estanna 




(he was) 


kan 


(I waited) 


cstannayt 




Wash 


eghshil 


Wake me 


saheeny 




Wear 


eibes 


Walk 


imshi 




(I wear) 


alhis 


(I. . .) 


amshi 




Work 


cshtaghel 


Want, I 


oivz 




Write 


akteh 


(do you . . . ?) 


owz 




(I wrote) 


katabt 



MISCELLANEOUS 



And 




weh 


At 




fee 


(at the) 




fU 


By 




be or b' 


For 




alla-shan 


From 




min 


He 




hii-wa 


His 




... w, as a termina- 
tion to a noun 


I 




ana 


In 




fee 


(in the) 




fil 


It i 




hu-wa 


Me 




. . . y, or . . . ny, 
as a termination 


Mine 




bita'i 


My 




... y, as a termina- 
tion 


No 




la' 


Nobody 




ma-feesh had 


Not. The negative is formed by the 


word mooi 


^h before the verb, or, 


better, ma- 


or m 


- before the verb, and 


-ish or -sh after. 


Thus, " I saw " = 


ana shooft, 


and 


" I did not see " = 


ana ma-shooft 


ish. " I make " = 


ana 'am el, 


'• I ( 


don't make " = ana 


m-amel-sh 






Not vet 




lissa 



On 

Over 

Please 

She 

Than 

Thanks 

The. The article 



er, 
before 
They 
To 

What? 
When ? 
Whence 
Where ? 
Which, who 
Who? 
Whose ? 
Whv ? 
With 
Without 
Under 
Until 
Yes 
Yet 
You 
Your 

Yours 



et,' 

r," 



ala 

fo' 

■min fidlak 

hee-ya 

min 

katter kheerak 
is " el," but it becomes 
es," " esh," or " ez," 
" " s," " sh," or " z'* 

horn 

leh, or /' 

ay 

aymta 

min ayn 

fayn 

eliy 

me en 

bita'ameen 

lay, alla-shan-ay 

and, wee-ya 

min gheer 

taht 

lehad 

ai-wa 

lissa 

enta 

. . . k, or . . . ak, as 
a termination. 

bita'ak 



Good morning, or good day 

Good night 

To-morrow morning 

What is the time, please ? 

Call me at (six) o'clock 

I wish to start at . . . o'clock 

Meet me at the (hotel) at . . . o'clock 

Have dinner ready at eight o'clock 

punctually 
Ring the bell 
What is your name ? 
How old are you ? 
It does not matter 
What is the matter ? 



nahdrak sa-yeed 

lel-tak sa-yeeda, or sa-yeeda 

bookra es-sobh 

es-sa'ah kam, min fadlak 

saheeny es-sa'ah (sitta) 

aivz esdfer fee sa'ah . . . 

abeclny fil (locunda) fee sa'ah . . . 

hadder ela'asha fee sa'ah tajuaiiiajamani 

edyab el gar r as 
ismak ay 
omrak kam senna 
ma'alaysh 
khabber a\> 

153 



APPENDIX I 



MISCELLANEOUS— cow/inM^^. 



Hold 'your tongue 

How much is this ? 

Will you pive me some . . . please 

I shall only pay (ten) piastres 

Can you give me change ? 

I am much obliged to you 



eskut 

kam da 

eddeeny shu-wa-ya . . 

ana ad fa buss (ashara) 

'andak fakka 

kattar kheerak keteer 



. min fadlak 
'oorush 



Do not beat your horses 

What is your number 

I shall report you to the police 

Go away ! I shan't give you anything 

When is there a train to (Cairo) ? 

When does the train start ? 

How far is it to ... ? 

Will you show me the way to . . . please ? 

How much do you charge per day ? 

This donkey is no good ; get me another 



ma-tedruhsh khaylak 

nimrettak ay 

rd-yeh aballagh anak lei bolice 

Imshi, ma-deelaksh hdga 

amyta fee 'att:e le (masr) 

aymta yesdfar el 'attre 

'add ay ba-yeed le . . . 

warreeny es-sikka le . . ., min fadlak 

el oogra kam fil yom 

el homdr da moosh kwa-yes, hat ghavro 



154 



APPENDIX II 



HOTELS, CONSULAR AGENTS, BANKS, &c. 

HOTELS 

CAIRO 

THE vSAVOY. Sharia Kasr-el-Nil. Telephone No. 125, Cairo. 

Open in winter only (from about December 20 to April 10). 250 rooms. 
Private sitting-rooms and suites. Bedrooms with toilet and bath attached. 
Electric light and lift. Hairdresser's shop in the hotel. 

Restaurant — American Bar — Billiards. 



Tariff. 



The hotel has a garden and tennis-court. 
-Single bedrooms, from pt. 50 to pt. 120 per day. 



Double 


100 „ 


200 „ 






Sitting-rooms ,, 


200 „ 


500 „ 






Breakfast . 






pt. 


12 


Luncheon [table d'hote). 






)> 


30 


„ in restaurant 






j> 


40 


Dinner (table d'hote) 






>» 


40 


,, in restaurant . 






) > 


50 to 75 



The hotel has a fine ballroom, as well as rooms for private dinners and 
receptions. A small dance is given every Saturday. 

SHEPHEARD'S. Sharia Kamel. (Five minutes from the station.) Tele- 
graphic address: " Shepheard's, Cairo." Telephone Nos. 12 and 900. 

Open all the year round. 350 rooms — 500 beds. Private sitting-rooms 
and suites of apartments. Electric light and hfts. Hairdresser in the hotel. 
Railway booking-office in the building. 

Restaurant — Grill Room — American Bar — Billiirds. 

The hotel has a garden and tennis-court. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom, from pt. 40 per day. 
Double ,, ,, 80 ,, 

Sitting-room ,, 80 ,, 

Bedroom, with bath and toilet, pt. 120 per day. 
Private suites by arrangement. 

Breakfast pt. 10 

Luncheon [table d'hote) . . . . . ,, 20 

,, in restaurant . . . , ,, 25 

Dinner [table d'hote) . . . . . ,, 30 

,, in restaurant . . . . . ,, 40 

Meals en pension for not less than a week . ,, 50 per day 

The hotel has tw^o ballrooms and also private rooms for receptions. A 
small dance is given every Monday in winter. A band plays on the terrace 
every afternoon. 

CONTINENTAL. The Opera Square. Telephone No. 75. 

Open all the year round. 400 rooms, 500 beds. 
Restaurant — Grill Room — Billiards. 
Hairdresser in the hotel. Electric light and lifts. Garden and tennis-court. 

155 



APPENDIX II 



■)t 


10 






>> 


25 






J> 


30 
30 






f > 


40 






t. 


65 


per 


day 


t 


two 


miles 



Tariff. — Single bedroom, from pt. 30 to pt. 100 per dav. 
Double ,, „ 60 ,, 150 ,, 

Sitting-room ,, 100 ,, 450 ,, 

Bedroom, with bath and toilet, by arrangement. 
Private suites of apartments by arrangement. 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon (table d'hote). 
,, in restaurant 
Dinner (table d'hote) 

,, in restaurant . 
Meals en pension (for not less than one week) 

From pt. 40 to 
Private rooms for receptions are provided. 

GHEZIREH PALACE. On the Island of Ghezireii (about two miles from 
Cairo). 

Telegraphic address: "Palace — Cairo." Telephone, Xo. 217. 
200 rooms— 300 beds. 
The hotel is situated in a large and beautiful garden on the bank= of the Nile. 
A steam ferry runs every ten minutes to Cairo. Motor omnibuses and car- 
riages are always waiting to convey visitors to and from Cairo. Hotel opens 
in winter (from about December 15 to April 20). 
Tariff. — Single bedroom, from pt. 40 per day. 
Double „ ,, 80 ,, 

Sitting-room ,, 80 ,, 

Bedroom, with bath and toilet, from pt. 120 per day 
Private suites of apartments by arrangement. 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon (table d'hote). 

,. in restaurant 

Dinner (table d'hote) 

,, in restaurant . 
Meals en pension (for not less than one week) 

American Bar— Three Billiard Tables. 

Electric light and lifts. Hairdresser always in attendance, 
office in the gardens. 

The hotel is three minutes' walk from the " Sporting Club," where there] 
are tennis-courts, polo-grounds, a twelve-hole golf course, croquet grounds, 
squash racquet-courts, and a racecourse. 

Splendid ballroom and receotion-rooms. Small dances are given cver^ 
Thursday. A band plays on the terrace every afternoon and during dinncrj 

HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. Sharia Maghraby. Telephone No. 299. 

Opens in the winter season (December to April). 100 rooms. Private 
suites and sitting-rooms. Electric light and lift. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom, from pt. 30 to pt. 60 per day. 
Double ,, ,, 60 ,, 100 

Sitting-room ,, 60 ., 250 ,, 

Private suites by arrangement. 
Breakfast ....... 

Luncheon ....... 

Dinner ....... 

Meals en pension, by arrangement. 

MEN.\ HOUSE. At the Pyramids. Telephone No. 
address : " Mena, Cairo." 

Electric tram service from Cairo in forty minutes. 
200 rooms. 

Pestaurant — American Bar — Tii'o Billiard Tables. 

Electric light and lift. Three tennis-courts. Nine-hole golf course 



. pt. 


10 
20 
25 
30 
40 








50 


per 


day 



Tc^egrapr 



pt. 10 
„ 20 
„ 30 

1555. Telegraphic 



Chemist's shop. Hairdresser 



m 



attendance. 
156 



Swimming-bath. 



APPENDIX II 



pt. 


20 






25 




>> 


30 




Jf 


40 




> » 


50 


per dav. 


given from time to 



There is a church in the grounds and a resident chaplain and doctor. Tele- 
graph office on the premises. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom, from pt. 35 per day. 
Double ,, ,, 70 ,, 

Sitting-room ,, 60 ,, 

Private suites of apartments by arrangement. 
Breakfast, from pt. 10 to pt. 15 per day 
Luncheon (table d'hote) ... 

,, in restaurant 
Dinner (table d'hote) ... 

,, in restaurant . 
Meals en pensio't for not less than a week 
The hotel has two ballrooms where small dances are 
time. In the grounds is a racecourse where gymkhanas are held. 
SEMIRA.MIS. Kasr-el-Doubara. Telephone No. 1890. Telegraphic address : 
" Semiramis, Cairo." 

280 rooms. Situated on the banks of the Ni^e. 

Restaurant — Grill Room — American Bar — Billiards. 
Roof garden. Garden and tennis-court. Electric light and lifts. Ball- 
rooms. Hairdresser in attendance. "^ 
Tariff. — Single bedroom, from pt. 40 per day. 
Double ,, ,, 80 ,, 
Sitting-room ,, 100 ,, 
Bedroom with bath ,, 120 ,, 
Private suites by arrangement. 
Breakfast . 
Lunch (table d'hote) 

,, in restaurant 
Dinner (table d'hote) 
,, in restaurant 

NATIONAL. Sharia. Suliman Pasha. Telephone No. 1543. 
Open from December 1 to April 30. 200 rooms. 

Restaurant — Grill Room — American Bar — Billiards. 
Electric light. Hydraulic lift. Hairdresser. 
Tariff. ^Single bedroom, from pt. 20 to pt. 60 per day. 





pt. 


10 




>> 


20 




}J 


30 




• ? J 


30 
40 





Double ,, 


J} 


40 ,, 


100 


?> 




Sitting-room 


J ? 


40 „ 


80 


?> 




Breakfast . 






, 


. pt. 6 




Luncheon . 




. 


. 


. pt. 20 to 25 




Dinner 




^ ^ 


, 


. „ 25 „ 30 




Meals en pension 




. 


. 


. ,. 40 „ 60 


EDEN PALACE. Opposite 


the 


Esbekieh 


Gardens. Telephone Nc 




Open all 


the 


year round. 200 beds. 


Tariff. - 


—Single bedroom 




. from pi 


. 20 to pt. 30 per day 




Double ,, 




5 > 


40 


,, oO 




Sitting-room 




> J 


30 


„ 50 „ 




Meals en tension 




^ » 


40 


,, 65 




Breakfast . 








. pt. 6 




Luncheon . 








. „ 16 




Dinner 








. „ 20 


BRISTOL. 


Near the Esbekiek 


Gardens. 


Tel 


ephone No. 530. 




Open all 


the 


year roun 


d. 140 beds. 


Tariff. 


— Single bedroom 






. from pt. 20 per day 




Double ,, 




, , 




„ 40 „ 




Sitting-room 








„ 60 „ 




Pension 






from 


pt. 300 per week 




Breakfast . 




. 




. pt. 10 




Luncheon . 




^ , 




pt 16 to pt. 20 




Dinner 




157 




''0 25 



341. 



APPENDIX II 



METROPOLE. Ismailia Quarter. Telephone No 


. 184. 




Open all the year round. 90 


beds. 




Tariff. — Single bedroom . . . .from 


pt. 25 per dav 




Double „ . . • • ,, 


50 „ 




Pension .....,, 


50 




Breakfast ...... 


. pt. 6 




Luncheon ...... 


. „ 15 




Dinner ...... 


. „ 20 




IMPERIAL. RoND-PoiNT, Kasr-el-Nil. 






Open all the year round. 60 rooms. 




Tariff. — Single bedroom . . . .from 


pt. 40 per day 




Double ,, . . . . ,, 


60 „ 




Pension, by arrangement . . „ 


40 




Breakfast ...... 


pt. 5 




Luncheon ...... 


. „ 16 




Dinner ...... 


. „ 20 





NEW KHEDIVIAL. Sharia Kamel. Telephone No. 1572. 
Open all the year round. 110 beds. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom . . from pt. 20 to pt. 30 per day 

Double ,, . . ,, 40 ,, 50 ,, 

Sitting-room . . ,, 30 ,, 50 ,, 

Pension .... from pt. 350 per week 

Breakfast . . . . . . . pt. 6 

Luncheon . . . . . . . ,, 16 

Dinner . . . . . . . „ 20 



PENSIONS 
PENSION SIMA. Sharia Magraby. (Near Turf Club.) 
Inclusive terms, from pt. 300 per week. Electric hght. 
suites of apartments. Open all the year round. 



Garden. Private 



CARLTON HOUSE. Kasr-el-Nil. Telephone Nc. 1602. 

Open all the year round. 
Pension ..... from pt. 50 per day 

ROSSMORE HOUSE. 11 Sharia-el-Madabegh. 

Open all the >ear round. Inclusive terms, from pt. 40 to pt. 60 per day, 

ANGLO-AMERICAN. 

Open all the year round. 

Single room . . from LEIO to LE12 per month 

Double rooms . . ,, „ 16 ,, ,, 18 „ 

Sitting-rooms . . „ „ 20 per month 



HELOUAN 
RAND HOTEL. Three minutes from the station. Telephone No. 28 Helouan. 
Open during the winter season. 150 rooms. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom . . from pt. 30 to pt. 80 per day 

Double „ . . „ 60 „ 150 „ 

Sitting-room . . „ 80 „ 300 

Room with bath attached, by arrangement. 
Private suites by arrangement. 
Breakfast . . . . . . . pt. 10 

Luncheon . . . . , . . ,, 25 

Dinner ','30 

The hotel has a garden and tennis-court. Electric light and lift. 

Billiards — American Bar. 

158 



APPENDIX II 



There is a fine ballroom where small dances are held from time to time. 
Under the management of the Grand Hotel is the Helouan Golf Course, the 
largest and best in Egypt ; it consists of eighteen holes, and has a professional 
in charge. 



HOTEL DES BAINS. Near the Baths. Telephone No. 22 Helouan. 
Open in winter only. 60 rooms. Moderate terms. 

Tennis and Golf — Billiayds. 

Tariff. — Single bedroom . . from pt. 30 to pt. 40 per day 

Double ,, 
Sitting-room 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon . 
Dinner 

TEVVFIK PALACE HOTEL. Open in winter. 

The hotel was built for a palace by the late Khedive Tewfik Pasha. 
Terms on application. 

HOTEL-SANATORIUM EL-HAYAT. Telephone No. 44 Helouan. 
Open from October to May. 200 rooms. 



60 


„ 80 


>> 


60 


„ 120 


pt. 8 
„ 20 
„ 25 



Tariff. — Single bedroom . 
Double ,, 
Sitting-room 
Bedroom with bath 
Pension 



from pt. 40 per day 

„ 60 „ 

„ 80 „ 

„ 120 „ 

60 „ 



HOTEL HELTZEL. Telephone No. 41 Helouan. 

Open all the year round. 60 beds. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom .... from pt. 20 per day 



Double 
Breakfast 
Luncheon 
Dinner 



40 



pt. 



5 
15 
16. 



WINTER HOTEL. Telephone No. 60 Helouan. 

Open from October to May. 40 beds. 
Tariff. — ^Single bedroom . . , .from pt. .50 per day- 
Double ,, 100 ,. 

Sitting-room 



Breakfast 
Luncheon . 
Dinner 
Full pension 



„ 50 „ 

. pt. 5 

. pt. l.> 

. pt. 20 

from pt. 50 per day 



HOTEL-PENSION ANTONIO. Telephone No. 56 Helouan. 
Full pension from pt. 40 per day. 



ZEITOUN (near Cairo) 

GRAND HOTEL ZEITOUN. Open all the year round. 
Inclusive terms, from pt. 40 per day. 



Fine garden. 



ALEXANDRIA 

SAVOY PALACE. Telephone Nos. 1845 and 1928 Alaxandria. 

Open all the year round. 150 rooms. Electric hght_and lift. 
Restaurant — Billiards — Gardens. 
159 



APPENDIX II 



Tariff. — Single bedroom . 
Double ,, 
Sitting-room 

Bedroom with bath attached 
Private suites 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon (table d'hote). 
., in restaurant 
Dinner (table d'hote) 

,, in restaurant . 
Pension 



from pt. 30 to pt. 60 per day 



50 

60 

40 

150 



90 

80 

60 

300 



pt. 10 
20 
25 
30 
35 
from pt. 50 per day 



A band plays twice daily. 



KHEDIVIAL HOTEL. Telephone No. 267 Alexandria. 

Open all the year round. 140 rooms. Electric hght and hft. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom . 
Double 



Sitting-room 
Bedroom with bath 
Private suites 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon (table d'hote) 
,, in restauran 
Dinner (table d'hote) 

,, in restaurant 
Meals en pension 



from pt. 40 per day 

60 
100 

80 
300 



pt, 



10 
20 
25 
30 
40 



from pt. 50 per day 



GRAND HOTEL (near the Bourse). Telephone No. 372 Alexandria. 
Open all the year round. 70 rooms. 
Tariff.— Single bedrooms . '. . . from pt. 25 per day 



Double 
Breakfast 
Luncheon 
Dinner 



50 

pt. 6 

fron- „ 20 

,. „ 20 



WINDSOR HOTEL. Facing the sea. Telephone No. 796 Alexandria. 
Open all the year round. 75 rooms. 
Tariff.— Single bedroom . . . . from pt. 20 per day 



Double 
Sitting-room 
Pension 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon . 
Dinner 



35 
50 
50 



pt. 8 
,. 20 



RAMLEH 



GRAND CASINO SAN STEFANO. Ramleh. Telephone No. 15 Ramleh. 



Open all the year round. 200 rooms. 
Lawn tennis. Billiards. Band twice 
Tariff. — Single bedroom . 
Double , , 
Sitting-room 
Rooms with bath 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon . 
Dinner 



Electric light and lift. Sea bathing. 

daily. Frequent concerts. 

from pt. 40 per day 

„ 80 „ 

„ 80 „ 

,. 80 ,, 

. pt. 8 
. „ 25 
. .. 30 



HOTEL BEAU-RIVAGE. Ramleh. Telephone No. 186. 

0->t'n all the year round. 40 rooms. Gardens. Sea bathinj 
couri. 

100 



Tennis- 



APPENDIX II 



Tariff. — Single bedroom . . . .from pt. 50 per dav 

Double ,, . . . . ,, 100 

Sitting-room . . . . ,, 60 ,, 

Suites of apartments by arrangement. 

Breakfast * pt. 10 

Luncheon ...... from ,, 20 

Dinner . . . . . . ,, ,, 25 

CARLTON. BuLKELEY, Ramleh Telephone No. 173, 

Open all the year round. 44 roDms. Inclusive terms from pt. 50j)er~day. 

NEW VICTORL\ HOTEL. Ramleh. Telephone No. 370. 
Open all the year round. 60 rooms. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom . . . .from pt. 50 per day 



Double , , 

Sitting-room 

Private suites 

Breakfast . 

Luncheon . 

Dinner 

Meals en fyension 



VILLA MARGHERITA. Ramleh 
Open all the ] 
Tariff. — Single bedroom . 
Double „ 
Sitting-room 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon . 
Dinner 
Full pension 



100 

50 

„ 250 „ 

. pt. 18 

. „ 20 

. „ 25 

from pt. 4:0 per day 



Telephone No. 23 Ramleh. 
ear round. 30 rooms. 

from pt. 20 per day 
„ 40 „ 
„ 20 „ 

pt. 5 

„ 15 

. ,. 20 

from pt. 50 per day 



HOTEL PLAISANCE. Ramleh. Telephone No. 54. 

Open all the year round. Pension from pt. 40 per day. 



PORT SAID 

SAVOY HOTEL. Facing the Sea. Telephone No. 102 Port Said. 

Open all the year round. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom .... from pt. 27 per day 
Double ,, . . • . ,, •')4 ,, 

Sitting-room . . . . ,, 100 ,, 

Private suites and bedrooms with baths attached by 
arrangement 

Breakfast pt. 10 

Luncheon . . . . . . . ,, 20 



Dinner 

Pension 



from pt. 65 per day 



EASTERN EXCHANGE HOTEL. Telephone No. 34 Port Said. 
Open all the year round. 100 rooms. 

CONTINENTAL HOTEL. Telephone No. 49 Port Said. 

Open all the year round. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom , . . .from pt. 20 per day 



Double 
Sitting-room 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon . 
Dinner 



40 
20 



pt. 10 



161 



M 



APPENDIX II 



HOTEL DES VOYAGEURS. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom 
Double ,, 
Breakfast . 
Luacheon . 
Dinner 



ISMAILIA 

Near the Station. Open all the year round, 
from pt. 10 per day 
20 

pt, 5 
. „ 10 
. „ 10 

SUEZ 



HOTEL BACHET. Suez Docks. Telephone No. 7 Suez. 

Open all the year round. 



Tariff.— Single bedroom 
Double ,, 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon . 
Dinner 



HOTEL BEL-AIR. Telephone No. 11 Suez. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom . 
Double „ 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon . 
Dinner 
Pension 



from pt. 20 per day 

. pt. 10 

. „ 15 
. „ 17 

Open all the year round, 
from pt. 12 oer dav 
„ 24' „ 
. pt. 8 
. » 12 
. „ 12 
from pt. 35 per day 



FAYOUM 

GRAND KAROUN HOTEL. Medinet-el-Fayou.m (near the station). 
Full pension, including services of dragoman, from pt. 50 per day. 

HOTEL MOERIS, ox Lake Karoux. F?a Abchaway station, Egyptian State 

Railways. 

Full pension, from pt. 80 per day. Hire of sailing-boats, per day pt. 80 ; 
half-day, pt. 50. Guns for hire, pt. 10 per day. Cartridges on sale. Fare 
from the station to the hotel by carriage, pt. 20., including baggage. 

Note. — This hotel is open in winter only ; it is under the management of 
the Grand Karoun Hotel, Fayoum. Notice should be given beforehand by 
intending \'isitors, so that a carriage may meet the train at Abchaway station. 



NEW HOTEL. 



ASSIOUT 
Near the Station. 

LUXOR 
Close to the River. 



Electric light and lift. 



Private suites of apartments. 



THE WLNTER palace. 

Open in winter only. 
Gardens. Restaurant. 

The hotel was opened in 1907 only, and the arrangements arc of the most 
modern and luxurious description. 

Tariff. — Single bedroom . . . .from pt. 40 per day 

Double ,, . • • . ,, 70 ' ,, ' 

Sitting-room ....,, 100 ,, 
Bedroom with bath and toilet attached, from pt. 60 per day 
Private suites of apartments by arrangement 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon {table d'hote). 
„ in restaurant 
Dinner {table d'hote) 

,, in restaurant . 
Meals en pension 



pt. 15 
„ 20 
„ 25 
„ 30 
» 40 
from pt. 50 per day 



Specially reduced terms in November, December and after March 15. 

162 



APPENDIX II 



THE LUXOR HOTEL. Near the River. 
Open all the year round. Fine gardens. 
Tennis-court. Electric light. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom 
Double ,, 
Sitting-room 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon . 
Dinner 
Full pension 



English church in the grounds. 

from pt. 30 per day 

„ 80 „ 

. pt, 15 
. „ 20 
. „ 25 
from pt. 80 per day 



Specially reduced rates in November and December and after March 15. 



Other hotels at Luxor are 
Grande Pension de Famille." 



the *' Karnak," " Savoy," '' Grand," and 



ASSOUAN 



CATARACT HOTEL. Situated above the Nile (near the station). 

Open in winter only. Electric light and lift. Gardens and tennis-courts. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom . . . . from pt. 40 per day 

Double ,, . . . . ,, 70 ,, 

Sitting-room . . . • ' ,, 100 ,, 

Bedroom with bath and toilet attached, by arrangement. 
Private suites of appartments by arrangement. 
Breakfast ....... pt. 15 



Luncheon {table d'hote) 
,, in restaurant 
Dinner (table d'hote) 

,, in restaurant . 
Meals en pension 



20 
25 
30 
40 
from pt. 50 per day 



Specially reduced terms in November, December, and after March 15. 



Tennis-courts. Electric light 



SAVOY HOTEL. On Elephantine Island. 
Open in winter onlv. Splendid gardens, 
and lift. 

Tar'ff. — Single bedroom . . . . from pt, 40 per day 

Double ,, • • • • ^, 70 ,, 

Sitting-room . . . • ,, 100 „ 

Bedrooms with bath and toilet attached, by arrangement. 
Private suites of apartments by arrangement. 
Breakfast ..... 
LjUncheon {table d' hote) . 

,, in restaurant 
Dinner {table d'hote) 

,, in restaurant ... 
Meals en pension . . . from pt. 50 per day 

Specially reduced rates in November and December and after March 15. 



. pt. 


15 


• >> 


20 


>) 


25 


• >) 


30 


>> 


40 



GRAND HOTEL. Facing the River. 

Open all the year round. 
Tariff. — Single bedroom 
Double ,, 
Sitting-room 
Breakfast . 
Luncheon . 
Dinner 
Full pension 



Electric light. 
from pt. 30 per day 
,, 50 „ 
„ 80 „ 

. pt. 15 

. „ 20 

. „ 25 

from pt. 80 per day 



163 



APPENDIX II 



Name, 
Turf Club. 

Khedivial Sporting Club, 
Khedivial Club. 
Cercle Artistique. 
Automobile Club. 



CLUBS 
CAIRO 
Address. 

Sharia El-Maghraby. 

Ghezireh. 

22 Chareh El-Manakh. 

Sharia El-Madabegh. 

Ghezireh Palace. 



Secretary. 
H. Aspinall. 
K. H. Marsham, Esq. 
Alexander Tinkel. 
Mons. H. Lamba. 
Alexander Comanos. 



Union Club. 
Cercle Khedivial. 
Mohammed Aly Club. 
Alexandria Sporting Club. 
British Club. 
Khedivial Yacht Club. 
Club San Stefano. 



H. M. Dcdwell. 
Albert Cumbo. 
N. G. Sabbagh. 
A. S. Pre?ton. 
A. R. Purvis. 
Alexander Grafton. 



ALEXANDRIA 
6 Rue Ancienne Bourse. 
2 Rue Cherif Pacha. 
Rue Rosette. 
Ibrahimieh, Ramleh. 
15 Rue Gare de Ramleh. 
Ras-el-Tin. 
San Stefano, Ramleh. 

KHEDIVIAL SPORTING CLUB, GHEZIREH 
Secretary : Keith Marsham, Esq. 
This club is formed for race meetings, gymkhanas, and athletic sports, as 
well as for the games of cricket, lawn tennis, golf, polo, racquets, hockey, croquet, 
and football. 

Membership is restricted to applicants elected by the committee, on the 
proposal of two members. 
Subscriptions are as under : 

Life member . . . . 

Resident members, married. 

,, unmarried 

Country members . . 

Temporary members {i.e., visitors and others) require to^be introduced by a 

member of the club, and pay the following subscriptions : M't 



£30 sterling 
pt. 500 per annum. 
,, 360 ,, „ 
200 



Whole season 
One month 



pt. 



150 
100 



Playing Members 

. pt. 500 Two weeks 

,, 250 One week 

Non-Playing Members 

On band-days (Tuesdays and Thursdays), pt. 25 per day ; other days. pt. 15 
Visitors to Cairo wishing to join the club as temporary members should apply 
to the Secretary. 



CHURCHES 
CAIRO 

-All Saints Church, Boulac 



II 



Street. Sundav services. 



Church of England. 
8.30 A.M., 10.30 A.M., and 6 p.m. 

Church of Scotland. — St. Andrew's Church, close to headquarters of the Army 
of Occupation. Sunday services, 10.30 a.m. and 6 p.m. 

Roman Catlwlic Church. — Saint Joseph, Emad-el-Din Street (Ismailieh) 
Mass at 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11 a.m. 

Jesuits' Church, Faggalah and Abbas Streets. 

German Lutheran. — 19 El-Maghraby Street (IsmaiUeh). 

ALEXANDRIA 

Church of England.—St. Mark's Church, Mohammed Aly Square. Sunda\ 
services, 8 a.m. and 6.15 p.m. ' 

All Saints Church, Bulkeley, Ramleh. Sunday services, 8.30 a.m. and 6.30 p.> 
Church of Scotlani.—St. Andrew's Church (Presbyterian), near post offic( 
Sunday services, 10.30 a.m. and 6 p.m. 



Roman Catholic Church, St. Catherine's Church, St. Catherine Square 
Church, Abd-el-Monein Street. 

164 



Jesiii 



APPENDIX II 



BANKS 

CAIRO 
National Bank of Egypt, Kasr-el-Nil Street. 
The Bank of Egypt, Kasr-el-Nil Street. 
The Anglo-Egyptian Bank, Kasr-el-Nil Street. 
The Credit Lyonnais, El-Bosta Street. 
The Imperial Ottoman Bank, El-Manakh Street. 
The Agricultural Bank of Egypt, No. 6 Zervudaki Street. 
Deutsche Orient Bank A.G., No. 4 Midan Snares. 
The Credit Foncier_Egyptien, El-Manakh Street. 

ALEXANDRIA 

The National Bank of Egypt, Stamboul Street. 
The Bank of Egypt, Tewfik Pasha Street. 
The Anglo-Egyptian Bank, Cherif Pacha Street. 
The Credit Lyonnais, Cherif Pacha Street. 
The Imperial Ottoman Bank, Mohammed Aly Street. 
. The Agricultural Bank of Egypt, 17 Mohammed Al/ Street, 

DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS 

GREAT BRITAIN 

Agent and Consul-Geneml. — Sir Eldon Gorst, K.C.B., Kasr-el-Doubara, Cairo 
Consul. — A. D. Alban, Standard Life Buildings, Soliman Pacha Street, Cairo. 
Consuls-Geneyal. — E. B. Gould, I.S.O., Alexandria ; D. A. Cameron, Port Said 
Consul. — V. A. Laferla, Suez. 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 

4.gent and Consul-General. — Lewis Morris Iddings, Kaser-el-Doubara. 
Consul. — John Griifen, Shawarby Pacha Street, Cairo. 

Agents. — E. Alexander Powell, Alexandria; H. Broadbent, Port Said; F. T 
I'eake, Suez ; Georges Wissa Bey, Assiout. 



165 



APPENDIX III 
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION 



EGYPTIAN MONEY 

The monetary system of Egypt rests, since 1885, on a single gold standard, 
with subsidiary silver, nickel, and copper coins. The unit is the Egyptian 
pound, worth approximately £1 Os. Qd. in English money. The Egyptian pound 
is divided into 100 piastres and the piastre into 10 milliemes. 

Practically the only gold coin in circulation is the English sovereign, which 
is worth 97 i piastres and passes everywhere. There are a few Egyptian and 
Turkish 100-piastre and 50-piastre pieces and French napoleons in circulation, 
but these are seldom met with. 

The National Bank of Egypt issues notes of the value of LEIOO, LE50 
LEIO, LE5, LEI and 50 piastres. The following Egyptian coins are in 
circulation : 

Silver 

Pt. 20 (worth about 4s. 2d. or 1 dollar or 5 francs). 

Pt. 10 (worth about 2s. 1^. or 50 cents or 2*50 francs). 

Pt. 5 (worth about Is. or 25 cents or 1-25 francs). 

Pt. 2 (worth about bd. or 10 cents or 50 c). 

Pt. 1 or 10 milliemes (worth about '2^d. or 5 cents or 25 c). 

Nickel 

Pt. 1 or 10 milliemes (worth about 2\d. or 5 cents or 25 c. 
Pt. |- or 5 milliemes (worth about l^rf.). 
2 milliemes (worth about ^d.). 
1 millieme (worth about ^d.). 

N.B. — Pt. stands for " piastre tarif," and is the ordinary method of writinj 
" piastre." 

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 

The metric system is generally used in Egypt, though English units are fr€ 
quently met with and also certain Egyptian units. Of the latter the following 
arc the most likely to be useful : 

The Pik (24 kirats) r:= 22-83 in. or 0-585 metre. 

The Feddan, used in land measurement ~ 4200 sq. metres (roughly one acre)] 

The Rotl is almost equal to 1 pound (weight). 

The Okah or Oke ^^ 2| lb. 

The Kantar -~-- 100 rotls or 36 okcs (roughly 100 lb.). 

The metrical and English equivalents are appro.ximately : 

1 kilometre = 0-621 mile or 1094 yds. (8 kilometres .= 5 miles very nearly) 
1 mile = 1609 metres. 

3 ft. 3^ in. 

dl^ centimetres. 

2k centimetres. 
2| lb. (2-205 lb.). 
454 grammes. 
1000 kilograms = 
2240 lb. = 

1196 sq. yd., about 10;i sq. ft 
4047 sq. metres ~ 4840 sq. yd. 

1-308 cub. yd. = 3532 cub. ft.— about 220^gallons 
(1 cubic metre of fresh water weighs practically 1 ton, 2207 lb.) 

166 



1 metre 

1 yard 

1 foot 

1 inch 

1 kilogram 

1 pound 

1 metrical ton 

1 English ,, 

1 sq. metre 

1 acre 

1 cubic metre 



2205 lb. 

1016 kilograms. 



APPENDIX III 



POSTAL INFORMATION 
Postal Rates 
Within Egypt 

Letters, local, for 30 grammes (1 oz.) or fraction 

To other towns in Egypt, for 30 grammes (1 oz.) or fract 
Newspapers ....... 

Postcards . . . . . . 

Parcels, not exceeding 1 kilogram (2J lb.) 
j» >> "J j> ("u )> ) 

fi )> ^ >> (11 yj ) • 



on 



t. 


Mm 




o 
5 




1 




2 


3 


— 


4 


— 


5 


— 



1 — 

4 

_ 9 



Foreign 

Letters to Great Britain, Italy, India, Canada, South Africa, Aus- 
tralia, and most other British possessions, for 20 grammes (§ oz.) 
or fraction ......... 

Other countries in the Postal Union .... 

Postcards ......... 

Newspapers, &c.^ for 50 grammes (1§ oz.) or fraction 

Parcels to Great Britain : 

Via Gibraltar, not exceeding 1 kilogram (2^ lb.) . . .6 — 

>> >y yy ^ yy (Og >, ) • • .J 

5 (11 ) . 12 — 

Via France or Italy, not exceeding 5 kilograms (11 lb.) , ,15 — 

N.B. — All parcels must be accompanied by a despatch note and a customs 
declaration properly filled in : these can be obtained free at th<3 post offices. 



Registration of Letters 



Inland service 
Foreign „ 



Pt. Mm, 

— 5 

1 — 



Money Orders, &Cj 

Inland service (up to LEIOO), for each LE or fraction . . — 3 

,, minimum charge for each order . . . .1 — 

Sudan service, for each LE or fraction . . . . . — 5 

,, minimum charge . . . . . .1 — 

British Postal Orders are issued payable in Great Britain or British possessions 
of values from M. to 21s. 

Pt. Mm. 

1 — 

. 1 5 



Foreign Money Orders, for each LE or fraction up to LE4' 
,, ,, for each LE2 or fraction above LE4 



Mails to Europe 



British {via Brindisi), in winter 
German {via Naples) 
Italian . . . . . 

French {via Marseilles) 
Austrian {via Brindisi) . , 



Mails from Europe 



Italian . 
German 
Austrian 
French . 
British . 



1(37 



Sunday 

Wednesday 

Thursday 

Friday 

Saturdav 



Sunday 
Monday 

Tuesday 
Wednesday 



APPENDIX III 



TELEGRAPHIC INFORMATION 
Egyptian Service 



Pt. Mm. 



The rates for tcle.2;rams within Egypt are, for every two words or 

fraction ........... — 5 

Minimum charge for each message . . . . .2 — 

Telegrams marked '* urgent " take precedence above all other 
( private telegrams, and are charged triple rates, i.e., for every two 

words ........... 1 ') 

Dehvery of telegrams is free within 2 kilometres of the receiving office. For 
longer distances a charge is made which must be paid in advance, 

Pt. Mm. 
More than 2 and less than 4 kilometres ...... 2 5 

,,4 ,, 8 ,, ...... o 

8 12 .10 — 

Telegrams are not delivered to a greater distance than 12 kilometres from 
the receiving office. 

A receipt should be asked for by the sender of every telegram. 

The sender of a telegram must sign his name, though not necessarily for 
transmission. 

In non-coded telegrams words of more than fifteen letters (except in the 
case of the name of the town of destination) and numbers of more than five 
figures are charged as two words. 

In code telegrams words of more than ten letters are charged as two. 

Telegraph Offices. — Telegrams can be despatched from all the principal 
towns in Egypt and from nearly all railway stations. At the larger places 
messages in European languages (Latin characters), as well as in Arabic, are 
taken. At the other offices only Arabic messages can be transmitted. 

Sudan Teltigr'.ph Service 

Between Egypt Sudan 
and tho Sudan. (Interior). 
Urgent telegrams, for every 2 words or fraction . . 4 Pt. 2i Pt. 

Minimum charge ..... 
Ordinary telegrams, for every 2 words or fraction 

Minimum charge ..... 
Deferred telegrams, for every 4 words or fraction 
Minimum charge ..... 

Delivery of deferred telegrams is made not less than 48 hours after despatch. 

Foreign Service. Via Eastern Telegraph Co. 
Rates per word from Cairo, Alexandria, Suez, and Port Said to 

Aden .... 

Argentine R( public 
Australia — Australia proper 
„ New Zealand 

Tasmania . 
Austria-Hungary 
Belgium .... 
Canada .... 
China — Hong-Kong, Shanghai, Amoy, and Foochow 

Canton and Macao 
Denmark . 
France 
Ciermany , 
Gibraltar . 

Great Britain and Ireland 
Greece 
Holland 
India— India and Burmah 

1G8 



4 Pt. 


2\ 


16 „ 


10 


H., 


1 


6 ., 


4 


u„ 


1 


3 ,, 


2 



Pt. 


Mm 


. 7 


7 


. 24 


8 


. 16 


6 


. 18 




. 17 


8 


• 4 


8 


. 9 


6 


. 21 


4 


22 


3 



APPENDIX III 



Orange 



c River Colony, and 



British Central Africa 



• 


Pt. 

9 

4 

29 


Mm 
6 
8 
3 


t 


4 


8 




9 
15 






1 


4 


8 


1 


6 


o 




16 
17 
18 

4 
16 

3 


8 
6 
8 
8 

5 


\ 
J 


4 


8 


• 


6 
9 


7 
6 


A 


10 


4 




10 
12 


8 

1 



India — Ceylon 
Italy 
J apan 
Malta 
Norway 

Persia (via Rhodes) 
,, (via Bombay) 
Portugal , 
Russia in Europe 
,, in Asia . 
South Africa — Cape Colony, Natal, 
Transvaal 
,, Southern Rhodesia 

,, Northern Rhodesia and 

Spain 

Straits Settlements 
Suakin 
Sweden 
Switzerland 
Turkey in Europe 

,, Asia 
United States of America — New York City 

„ New York (State), districts of Columbia 

and Pennsylvania 
„ Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Michigan, and 

Georgia .... 

,, California and Washington (State) . 

Rates to other places will be given on application to the offices of the Eastern 
Telegraph Co. in Cairo, Alexandria, Suez, and Port Said. 

TELEPHONES 

Telephone systems have been established at Cairo, Alexandria, Port Said, 
Suez, and Helouan. In addition to these, trunk telephones are in operation 
between Cairo and Alexandria, and Tantah, Cairo, Alexandria. 

Trunk Telephone Rates : Pt. 

Ordinary : every 3 minutes or fraction .... 5 

Urgent : every 3 minutes or fraction .... 15 
Public call offices have been established at the following places : 
Alexandria. — Central Office, St. Mark's Buildings. 
Bourse Khedivial. 
El Moayad Newspaper Office. 
Egyptian Bar. 

Walker and Meimarachi, Ltd. 
Ramleh.- -Central Office, Halt No. 2. 

Casino San Stefano. 
Cairo. — Central Office, Opera Square. 
Bourse Khedivial. 
Sault's, confectioners. 
Continental Hotel. 
New Bar. 
Obelisk Bar. 
St. James's Bar. 
Helouan. — Central Office. 
Zeitoun. — Central Office. 
Tantah. — Central Office. 

CUSTOMS 
■^ An 8 per cent, ad valorem duty is charged on all goods imported into the 
country, except in the case of coal, timber, cattle, fresh meat, &c., on which 
the charge is 4 per cent. 

169 



APPENDIX III 



The duty on manufactured tobacco is pt. 25 per kilo from Turkey and pt. 27 
from all other countries. Cigars are charged pt. 25 per kilo. 

An export duty of 1 per cent, is charged on all products of Egypt and the 
Sudan. 

A duty is charged on all antiquities exported, which is assessed by the Anti- 
quities Department. Without a permit from the above Department no 
antiquities can be exported. 

There are bonded warehouses at Alexandria, Port Said, Suez and Cairo, and 
consignments (except inflammables and bulk cargoes) can be sent to Cairo 
in bond and cleared there. 

The personal effects of visitors to Egypt arc not charged for unless new, 
except in the case of such articles as guns, bicycles, motor-cars, saddles. &c. &c. 

People settling in Egypt for the first time are entitled to import their per- 
sonal effects, furniture, &c., free of duty, provided these are not new. 

INFORMATION FOR MOTORISTS 
Importation of Cars 
Great care should be exercised in packing cars for delivery to Egypt. To 
avoid breakage, all fittings, such as lamps, &c., should be separately packed. 
A rebate is given on cars which have been used previous to their importation 
into the country ; this rebate varies in proportion to the length of time they 
have been in use. 

Motor Licenczs 

Any individual bringing a motor-car into Egypt must obtain a licence, together 
with enamel number, from the Governorat of Cairo or Alexandria, at a cost of 
pt. 53. It is essential for the owner to bring the car to the Governorat for 
inspection, or to supply the following details : Make and colour of car ; horse- 
power ; number of people the car will hold, including driver ; name, residence. 
and nationality of owner. 

Garages 

The Auto-Cabs Co., Ltd., Boulac Street. Cairo 

Telegrams : " Auto." Telephone No. 2042. 

Garage charges 

For storing and cleaning private cars, per month . . pt. 250 

Petrol, per case of 40 litres . . . . . . ,, 65 

Chauffeurs cannot be engaged without car. 

For hire of motor-cabs, four places including place beside the drivcr,'^thc 
prices are : 

For 1 hour or less, by day or night 
Above 1 hour, every 15 minutes . 
Every 15 minutes waiting .... 
For 10 hours by day or night within City circle 
,, ,, ,, outside ,, 

These cars can also be hired by distance. 

Grand Garage du Caire, Maarouf Street, Boulac, Cairo 

Telegrams : " Grangara." Telephone No. 1573. 

Motor- Car Tariff 
Morning . . . . . . " . , . pt. 15U 

Afternoon ........,, 250 

Whole night ,,250 

By time .... Varying according to time hired 

Chauffeur without car, per day . . . . . pt. 50 

Petrol, per 4-gallon tin . . . . . . „ 32 

Electric and petrol cars hired and sold, and all repairs executed. 

170 





pt. 


30 
5 
5 






200 
300 



APPENDIX III 



Garage Egyptien Gallia (Eugene Nahman et Cie.) 

Rue Young, Alexandria. Telephone No. 291 Alexandria. 
Artin Bey Street (off Bab-el-Hadid Street, Cairo). Telephone No. 538 Cairo. 

Telegrams : " Edison." 

Electric motor-cars hired and sold. 

Electric motor-cars stored, cleaned, charged and repaired, not including 
chauffeur, per month LE20. 

Hire of electric coupes and landaulets, for about six months' engagement 
LE60 per month. 

Charging of electric motor-cars, pt. 4 per kilowatt-hour. 

INTRODUCTION OF FIREARMS AND AMMUNITION 
INTO EGYPT 
Persons desiring to bring rifles, shot-guns, or firearms into Egypt can do 
so without a permit on condition that they are for their own private use, and 
are not new. 

If the firearms are new, though private, appUcation for permits must be 
made in writing to : 

The Director of Artillery, 

The Citadel, Cairo. 
All arms will be subject to the usual Customs charges, i.e., 8 per cent, on 
their value. 

All persons desiring to import ammunition in considerable quantities for 
their own use must first obtain a permit from the Ministry of the Interior 
Cairo. 

The permission necessary for the transport of this ammunition by railway is 
accorded by the Governor of the port. 

The Egyptian railways do not carry ammunition by passenger trains, but 
passengers may take, in their private luggage, small quantities of safety cart- 
ridges free of charge. 

QUAIL SHOOTING 

A licence is required for shooting quail in Giza Mudiria. It is obtainable 
from Messrs. Cook and Son, the Turf Club, and the principal hotels, and must 
be renewed in February each year. Price, LEI. 

The localities in which quail-shooting is authorised are specified on each 
licence. 

ANTIQUITIES DEPARTMENT 

The Department is under the superintendence of the Director-General of 
Antiquities, the Museum of Egyptology, Cairo. Chief Inspectors of Antiquities 
arc stationed at : 

Luxor for Upper Egypt. 

Assiout for Middle Egypt. 

Sakkara for Ghizeh Moudirieh, 

Mansourah for Lower Egypt. 

Tickets to visit antiquities are issued : Price. 

(1) For Sakkara (obtainable from the Museum in Cairo, from 

Messrs. T. Cook and Son, or from the Reis of Antiquities 

at Sakkara) . . . . . . . . pt. 5 

(2) To ascend or enter the Pyramids of Ghizeh (obtainable 

from Ghizeh Moudirieh and at the Pyramids) . . ,, 10 

(3) For the whole of Egypt (including Sakkara but not Ghizeh), 

obtainable from the Museum in Cairo, Messrs. T. Cook 
and Son, and the Inspector of Antiquities at Luxor . ,, 120 
Application to excavate during the next winter should be made to the Director- 
General of Antiquities before June. 

171 



APPENDIX III 



BANK AND GOVERNMENT HOLIDAYS 



Accession of H.H. the Khedive 

Qiirban Bairam (five days) 

MiiUd-el-Nebi . 

Shom-el-Nassim 

Birthday of H.H. the Khedive 

Cutting of the KhaUg 

Ramadan Bairam (four days) 

Holy Carpet 

Departure of the Mahmal . 

Return of the Mahmal 



i 



January 8 
January 
April 25 
May 6 
July 12 
August 
November 

variable 



FULL MOONS, 1907-S 

1907.— November 20, December 19. 

1908.— January 18, February 17, March 18, April 16, May 16, June 14, July 
13, August 12, September 10, October 9, November 8, December 7. 



TABLE OF DISTANCES IN KILOMETRES BETWEEN CAIRO AND 
PRINCIPAL TOWNS BY RAIL AND RIVER 





From 


From 




From 


From 




Kasr-el-Nil 


Cairo 




Kasr-el-Nil 


Cairo 1 




Bridge. 


Station. 




Bridge. 


Station.' 


Kasr-el-Nil . 




1 
Sohag . 


497 


477 


Hawamdieh . 


17 


28 


Akhmim 


505 


— 


Bedreshein 


24 


33 


Guirgueh 


538 


502 


Avat 


50 


59 


Baliana 


555 


518 


Wasta . 


85 


92 


Farshout 


590 


545 


Beni-Souef 


120 


124 


Nag-Hamadi . 


600 


553 


Bibeh . 


140 


146 


Deshena 


632 


578 


Maghagha 


175 


180 


Kena 


662 


608 


Minieh . 


245 


247 


Luxor . 


726 


671 


Abou-Kerkas . 


268 


267 


Armant 


740 


691 


Roda . 


285 


285 


Esneh . 


784 


728 


Manfalout 


354 


347 


Edfou . 


835 


777 


Assiout . 


396 


375 


Kom Ombo . 


902 


836 


Tahta . 


459 


435 


Assouan 


945 


884 



172 



APPENDIX IV 

TIME-TABLES 
EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 

CAIRO— ALEXANDRIA 







A.M. 


A.M. 


NOON 




P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


Cairo . 


dep. 


7.30 


9.30 


12. 




4. 


4.50 


6.35 


11.30 


Choubra 


J J 


— 


— 




— 





— 


— 


— 


11.43 


Calioub 


* 99 


— 


— 




— 


— 


— 


— • 


— 


11.59 

. A.M. 


Kaha . 


* 99 


— 






— 


— 


— 


— . 


— 


S 12.17 


Toukh 


* 9 9 


— 







— 


— 


— 


— 


— 


•^12.31 


Sandanhour . 


' 9 J 


— 






— 


— 


— 




— 


c — 


Benha 


• 9 9 


8.15 


10.15 


_ 


12.42 


— 


4.45 


— 


7.20 


fe 12.55 


Kouesna 


' > > 


— 


— 




— 


— 


— 


— 


— 


5 1.17 


Birket-el-Sab 


• 9 9 


— 


— 




— 


— 


5.13 


— 


— . 


U 1.36 


Defrah. 


* J) 


— 


— 




— 


— 


— 


— 


— 


S 1-54^ 


Tantah 


( arr. 
( dep. 


8.55 
8.59 


10.55 
10.. 59 


t/) 


1.18 
1.22 


P.M. 

2.15 


5.30 
5.34 


6. 3 

6. 7 


8. 
^. 8. 4 


•3 2. 5 
§ 2.13 


Choubra-Namleh 


' 9 9 


— 


— 


S-i 


— 


— 


— 


— 




. 2-25 


Kafr-el-Zayat 


' 9 9 


9.17 


11.17 


W 
i-i 

CT3 


— 


2.33 


5.52 


— 


^ 8.22 


•g 2.45. 


Tewfikieh 


99 


— 


— 


— 


— 1 — 


— 


W — 


c --^7 


Teh-el-Baroud 


' y 9 


9.35 










2.51 


6.10 





o — 


o 3.17 


Saft-el-Melouk 


' 9 > 


— 


— 


O 


— 


— 


— 


— 


be 


< 3.32 


Denchal 


• >> 


— 


— 


^ 


— 


— 


— 


— 


'5 


o 3.43. 


Damanhour . 


• >y 


10. 1 


11.56 




— 


3.17 


6.36 


— 


5 9^1 


; 4. a 


Sahali . 


>) 


— 


— 


;3 


— 


— 


— 


— 


U 


Abou-Hommous 


• 9 9 


— 


— 




— 


— 


— 


— 


— 


'§ 4.28 


Dessounes 


J J 


— 


— 




— 


— 


— 


— 


— 


uT 4-4^ 


Mamal-Guezaz 


J J 




— 




— 


— 


— 


— 


— 


2 4.52 


Kafr-el-Daouar 


yy 


— 


— 




— 


3.52 


— 


— 


— 


ic 5- ^ 


El-Beda 


M 


— 


— 




— 


— 


— 


— 


— 


S 5.17 


Ezbet- Khourched 


J> 


— 


— 




— 


— 


— 


— 


— 


& 5.28. 


Mallaha 


99 


P.M. 


— 




— 




— 


— 





^ 

c7) 


Sidi-Gaber . 


J y 


10.51 


12.46 




2.57 


4.16 


7.26 


7.41 


9.51 


5.45 


Hadra 


} y 


— 


— 








— 


— 


— 


5.53 


Alexandria 


arr. 


11. 


12.55 




3. 5 


4.25 


7.35 


7.50 


10. 


6. 



The principal trains only are shown. 

Times between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m. are indicated by a heavy line. 

173 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



ALEXANDRIA— CAIRO 



Alexandria 
Hadra 

Sidi-Gabcr . 
Mallaha 

Ezbot- Khoiirchcd 

El-Btda 

Kafr-el-Daouar 

Mamal-Guezaz 

Dessouiics 

Abou-Hommous 

Sahali . 

Damaiihovir . 

Dcnchal 

Saft-el-Melouk 

Teh-el-Baroiid 
Tevvfikieh 

Kafr-el-Zayat 

Choubra-Namleh 

Tantah 

Dcfrah . 

Birket-el-Sab 
Kouesna 

Bonha 

Sandanhour . 
Toukli 
Kaha . 
Calioub 
Choubra 



Cairo 



> 



9i 



I A.M.I 

dep. I 7. O! 



' ary. 
I del>. 



A.M. A.M. 

9. 0!l0.30 



7.10! 9.10;i0.40 



11. 2 



NOON 

12. 



12.10 



i 7.58: 9.58 11.40 u>: — 

I (A 

O 

D. — 
X 
W 



P.M. 

3.40 



3.50 



4.11 



1 8.221 — 



P.M. 

12. 5 



8.40il0.35|l2.24 



^ _ 

I 

o 

a; 



8.56 10.51 12.40 : c 1.43 
9. 010.55 """u 1-47 



9.44 11.39; 



arr. 10.25:12.20 



2.26 



4.44 



5. 8 



5.26 

5.42 
5.46 



6.29 



P.M. 

4.25 



4.34 



7.10 



6. 7 
6.11 



7.25 



P.M. 

6. 



6.10 



6.58 



o 
u 

X 

u 

o 
I 



7.35 



C7.51 
G7.55 



8.39 



9.20 



P.M. 

11.80 
11.40 
11.48 



A.M. 

^12. 3 
•J 12.14 
g 12.28 
^12.39 
.c 12.51 



til 



1.32 
1.48 
1.59 

2.17 
2.34 

2.49 
3. 6 
3.16 
3.24 
3.37 
3.57 
4.14 

4.42 

5. 1 
5.14 
5.34 
5.49 

6. 



IS.MAILIA— SUEZ DOCKS 



SUEZ DOCKS— ISMAILIA 



ISMAILIA 

Netiche 
Fayrd 

Geiit'fe 



Srtz 



Rue Colmar 



Tcrre-plcin 
cks 



(Dc) 





P.M. 


P.M. 


dep. 


2.15 


9.45 : 


»» 


2.25 


9.55 i 


>> 


3. 1 


10.31 ! 


M 


3.26 


10.56 i 


arr. 


4. 3 


11.33 


dep. ' 


4.13 


11.43 


> t 


4.19 


11.49 


arr. 


4.20 


11.50 

! 



Suez 



Docks 

Terre-plein . 
Rue Colmar 



Genefe . 
Fayed . 
Nehche . 

ISMAILIA 



dep 

> > 
arr. 
dep. 



arr. 



A.M. 

7.30 
7.32 

7.37 
7.50 
8.31 
8.56 
9.30 
'9.38 






P.M. 

5.40 _ 
5.42.2^ 

5.47 t b 

6.41 -c/3 

7. 6 ^2 
7.40 g« 

7.48 f§^ 



The principal trains only arc shown. 

Times between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m. arc indicated bv 

J74 



a heavy line. 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 





CAIRO 


— PORl 


SAID, via 


BENHA 












A.M. 






A.M. 






P.M. 


Cairo 


. dep. 


7. 






11. 






6.15 


Benha . 


arr. 


7.41 


A.M. 




11.41 


P.M. 




6.56 




dep. 


7.46 


10.40 




11.46 ^• 


5.10 




7. 1 


Cheblanga 


yy 


— 


10.53 






5.24 




— 


Mit-Yazid 


• y } 


— 


11. 3 






5.35 




— 


Minet-el-Gamh . 


• J f 


8.10 


11.10 


T3 


C/1 

— o 


5.42 




7.25 


Godaiedah 
Zancaloun 







11.18 
11.28 


■a 


a> 

12.26 ^ 


5.50 
6. 1 


CO 


— 


Zagazig . 


ayy. 


8.31 


11.37 


U 

O 


6.10 




7.46 




dep. 


8.35 


11.42 


1 


12.31 § 


6.18 


o 

1 


7..52 


Abou-Akhdar . 


. J J 


8.46 


11.54 


1 


N 


6.31 


— 


Abou-Hammad 


>> 


8.58 


12.10 




C 
^ 


6.47 


1 

c 


— 


Tel-el- Kebir . 


• >> 


9.14 


12.27 


05 


(/) 


7. 7 


'c3 


— 


Kassassine 


• >> 


9.30 


12.46 




o 


7.26 


CJ 


— 


Mahsamah 


• ? J 


9.40 


12.58 


5-1 


. <U 


7.38 


u 


8.55 


Abou-Soueir 


• yy 


9.52 


1.12 


c 


— 2 


7.52 




— 


Nefiche . 

ISMAILIA . 


> > 

arr. 
dep. 


10. 9 
10.16 
10.24 


1.28 
1.35 


'u 

1.59;^ 
2. 9^ 


8. 8 
8.15 


.s 

'.2 


9.26 








9.36 


El-Ferdan 


• yy 


10.40 




5 


6X) 

Id 




Q 


— 


Ballah . 


• ^ > 


10.53 






o 






— 


Kantarah 


• >> 


11. 8 






Xi 






10.11 


Le Cap . 


y y 


11.21 






H 






— 


Tineh 


* > J 


11.34 






— 






— 


Ras-el-Eich 


• > J 


11.47 






— 






— 


Port Said 


. arr. 


12. 5 






3.30 






11. 





PORT 


SAID— 


-CAIRO, 


via 


BENHA 














A.M. 




P.M. 






P.M. 


Port Said 


dep. 




8.10 




12.30 






6.45 


Ras-el-Eich 
Tineh 






8.29 
8.42 




— 






— 


Le Cap . 


y y 




8.55 




— 






— 


Kantarah 


' f y 




9.11 




— 






— 


Ballah . 


J J 




9.23 


6 


— 






— 


El Ferdan 


* y y 




9.36 


J— < 


— 




d 


— 


ISMAILIA 


arr. 


A.M. 


9.51 


1 


1.51 


P.M. 


'cO 


8. 6 




dep. 


6.20 


9.59 


1 


2. 1 


3. 


1 


8.17 


Nefiche . 


J 7 


6.28 


10. 7 


CC 


— 


3. 9 


1 

73 


— 


Abou-Soucir 


J f 


6.44 


10.21 


(f} 


— 


3.25 


'c5 


— 


Mahsamah 


• J J 


6.58 


10.34 


u 


— 


3.39 


cn 


8.52 


Kassassine 


• y y 


7.10 


10.45 


O 
Oh 


— 


3.51 


u 


— 


Tel-el- Kebir 


J J 


7.31 


11. 5 




— 


4.12 


O 
PL, 


— 


Abou-Hammad 


y J 


7.50 


11.19 




— 


4.28 


wT 


— 


Abou-Akhdar . 


y 9 


8. 4 


11.31 


o 


— 


4.43 


03 


— 


Zagazig . 


arr. 


8.15 


11.41 


o 


3.28 


4.54 


tc 


9.50 




dep. 


8.21 


11.47 




3.33 


5. 


.s 


9.55 


Zancaloun 




8.31 


— 


o 


— 


5.10 




— 


Godaiedah ^ 


y y 


8.42 


— 


^ 


— 


5.21 


Q 


— 


Minet-Gamh 


y y 


8.51 


12. 9 


— 


5.31 




10.17 


Mit-Yazid 


y y 


8.57 


— 




— 


5.37 




— 


Cheblanga 


y y 


9. 8 


— 




— 


5.48 




— 


Benha . 


arr. 
dep. 


9.20 


12.32 
12.44 




4.13 
4.19 


6. 




10.40 






10.44 


Cairo 


arr. 




1.25 




5. 






11.25 



The principal trains only arc shown. 

Times between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m. arc indicated by a heavy line. 

175 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



^ o 



1— < >o 
do 






^ . I 



ci oi 



. 1 
O 1 







I'g^ Joqui^AO 


N ITiun 


'sAypjn;us puu 


'sAEpsoupa^W 


c^ ?o d i> r>^ 


, ?C tH GO 
CC -^ lit. 


, I> lO t^ o c 

»-i C<J JO lO 

00 00 oc 00 ai 





. o 



C X 
00 00 



CO 
X 



O CO 
CO -^ I 

to d I 



A^UO SSBp ;SJTJ 'SJIJO-gUTdcJaiS 



I (M 



!>■ 00 



X 



X 






>< 

I 

i 

o 
< 



•O'— I'Mf-HCiOvO-^r- iT-l<M'— iCO?D COrHiOLftCOS^lOOi"* "stX r-OOOr^'— ' 

2 CO Tf vc ^H 5<i JO lO 1— I (M JO -^ uo rH (M JO o 1— I i-H CO l'^ (M rf ir- ^- r: 

f^ M <N c<i JO CO CO CO JO CO Tt •^" ri- Ti* ■<* -* ic iri o id u;; d d d d i> i> i> t-^ x x x 

.OOi-i01X«0?CirtCO"^«2 0X<M .COOi"*<©Xt^ O-^ OOi Xr-it-i^X(M 

S CO Tt< u*: uo 1-1 c^i CO ir: i— i (N co >r: g (>J co ■* j (N Tt< ,-h oo »r i— i (M "* 

^ oi oi oi OS c d d d d "-H r-^ -^ r-H r-i' d; c<i (m' c^i <N (M* r-i I rn th {M* (M* (n' c^i CO co' co' oo" 



.o 

SCO 

<x 



rH Oi 

oioi 



d 



o 



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EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 






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EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 





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iturdays (from Cairo 
second-class car is p 
by a heavy line. 


a 

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1 




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P.M. 

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7.14 

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* This train will run on Mondays. Wednesdays, 

season it will run daily ; the date will be notified lal 

Note. — Times between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m. are ind 








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Guergueh 
Bardis . 
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Abou-Choucha 
Abou-Tichet . 
Jonction de Kharga 
Farchout 
Nag-Hamadi . 


Dabbeh 
Faou 
Dechena 
bamata . 
Aoulad-Amr . 
Kenoh , 





178 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



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179 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



05 ■* 
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EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



puE Suiutq -pxnj jp utvjx 






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EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



LUXOR— ASSOUAN 



Luxor .. 

Arm ant . 

Chagab . 

Maalla . 

Mat ana . 

Esneh 

Sabaieb , 

Mahamid 

Edfou 

Sirrag 

Silwa 

Kagoug . 

Kom Ombo 

Daraw 

Khattara 

Guezireh 

J unction 

Assouan 



J unction 
Shallal 



Tow 



dep. 



arr. 



dep. 



arr. 



A.M. A.M. A.M. 

7. Oi 9. 10.45 

7. 8; 9. 8 10.53 

l.'lb 9.25lll.l0 



8.45 

9.21 

A.M. 9.45 

6. 010.45 
6.34 11.19 

7. 711.54 

I P.M. 

7.26 12.30 




9.25 
9.48 
10.51 
11.20 
11.38| 
11.451 



1.21 
1.43 
2.40 
3. 8 
3.23 
3.30 



P.M. 

2.10 4. 

2.18 4. 8 

2.35 4.25 



o 

o 

o 

C 



2.50 
3.28 
3.46 
4.29 
4.49 

5. 

5.10 
5.23 
5.40 



fayoum lines 







A.^l. 


A.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


Wasta . 


. dep. 


6.55 


10.20 


3.25 


7.20 


9.35 


El Rous 




7.J3 


10.38 


3.42 


7.38 


9.52 


Siala 




7.29 


10.54 


3.56 


7.54 


10. 6 


Edwa . 




7.40 


11. 5 


4. 5 


8. 5 


10.15 


Fayoum 


. arr. 
dep. 


7.51 
8. 


11.16 
11.41 


4.15 


8.16 
8.39 


10.25 














P.M. 








Senaro 




8.17 


12.8 




9. 5 




Abchaway 


»> 


8.32 


12.35 




9.30 




Abouxah 


. arr. 


8.10 


12.45 




9.40 









A.M. 


A.M. 


P.M. 


Fayou.m 


. dep. 


8.30 


11.50 

P.M. 


4.25 


Hiahmo 


> « 


8.49 


12. 9 


4.40 


Sennoures 


arr. 


9. 


12.20 


4.50 



P.M. 

8.50 

9. 9 
9.20 



P.M. 

10.35 

10.54 
11. 5 



Times between 6 p..m, and 6 a.m. are indicated by a heavy line. 

182 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



ASSOUAN— LUXOR 











A.M. 


A.M. 


A.M. 


NOONP.M. 


P.M. 


Shallal 


. dep. 




1 


8. 


9.40 


10. 5 


12. 2.50 


6. 


J unction 


' >) 






8.18 


— 


10.25 


12.18 


3. 8 


6.18 


Assouan — Town 


. arr. 
dep. 




A.M. 

5.50 


8.25 


10. 3 
10.15 


10.32 


12.25 


3.15 6.25 






1^45 






Junction 






6.10 




t-I — 




2 5 






Guezireh 






6.20 




g 10.27 




2 15 






Khattara 






6.48 




^10.49 
1 11.34 




2 43 






Daraw 






7.44 






3 46 






Kom Ombo . 






8.10 




^11.49 




4.10 






Kagoug 






8.55 




^12.25 




4 55 






Silwa 






9.16 




c^l2.41 




5.16 






Sirrag . 




A.M. 


9.47 




^ 1 ^ 




5.47 






Edfou . 




5.45 


10.28 




S 138 


1 


1 6.18 






Mahamid 




6.30 


11.13 




ri 2.14 








Sabaieh 


• 


6.54 


11.37 




^ 2.32 
















P.M. 




-S 






1 


Esneli . 




7.37 


12.25 




^ 3. 4 






1 


Mat ana . 




8. 6 


12.51 




3.24 








Maalla . 




8.34 


1.19 




— 










Chagab . 




8.47 


1.32 




3.54 










Armant . 




9. 8 


1.53 




4.11 










Luxor . 


arr. 


9.50 


2.35 




4.45 











FAYOUM LINES 









A.M. 


A.M. 




P.M. 


Abouxah 


. dep. 




6.20 


10. 




3.40 


Abchaway 


5 > 




6.44 


10.11 




4. 4 


Senaro . 


5J 




7.14 


10.26 




4.34 


Fayoum 


. arr. 


A.M. 


7.34 


10.40 


P.M. 


4.54 




dep. 


5.40 


8.18 


10.50 


1.50 


5.34 


Edwa 


• >> 


5.51 


8.32 


11. 7 


2. 5 


5.47 


Siala 


• ) > 


6. 


8.43 


11.18 


2.17 


5.. 58 


El Rous. 


• )» 


6.14 


8.58 


11.33 


2.33 


6.13 


Wasta . 


. arr. 


6.30 


9.15 


11.50 


2.50 


6.30 



Sennoures 
Biahmo 1 
Fayoum 


. dep. 

• )> 
. arr. 


A.M. 

7. 
7.15 
7.30 


A.M. 

9.30 
! 9.45 

j 10. 

1 


P.M. 
1. 

1.15 
1.30 


P.M. 

5. 
5.11 
5.25 


P.M."^ 

9.40 
r9.55 
10.10 



Times between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m. are indicated by a heavy line. 

183 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



CAIRO— MANSOURAH, vii ZXGAZIG 



Cairo 
Calioub 
Bilbeis 
Zagazig . 

Abou-Kcbir 
Mansourah 



defy. 



arr. 
dep. 

arr. 



a.m. 
5.45 
6.11 

7.28 
7.55 



A.M. 

7.45 
8.12 
9.19 
9.44 
9.54 
10.30 
11.50 



A.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


11.25 


2.40 


5.40 


11.50 


3. 5 


6. 5 


1. 


4.18 


7.18 


1.27 


4.45 


7.42 


1.49 


5. 


7.55 


2.26 


5.38 


8.30 


1 3.45 

1 


7.10 


9.55 



ABOU-KEBIR— SALHIEH 



Abou-Kebir 
Facous 


. deh. 
arr. 


A.M. 

7.45 
8.11 
8.55 


A.M. 

11.20 
11.46 
12.30 


P.M. 

2.50 
3.15 


P.M. 

4.15 
4.40 
5.20 


P.M. 

5.50 
6.15 


P.M. 

8.45 
9.28 


Salhieh . 






10.20 



TANTAH— MANSOURAH— DAMIETTA 




TANTAH— DAMANHOUR, via DESSOUK 



Taxtah 

Mehallet-Roh June. 
Kalliru' June. 
Dessouk . 
Damanhour 



det>. 



arr. 



A.M. 

5. 
5.20 
6.13 
6.46 
7.20 



A.M. 

8.20 
8.54 
9.30 



i 


A.M. j 




11.50 




12.14 


A.M. 


1.11 


11. 


1.44 


11.35 


2.20 



P.M. 

3.20 
3.44 
4.42 
5.15 
5.50 



P.M. 

6. 
6.23 
7.24 
7.56 
8 30 



Cherbine Junc. 
Kallise Junc. . 



CHERBINE— KALLINE 



dep. 
arr. 



A.M. 


P.M. 


9. 5 


3.45 


12.10 

1 


6.50 1 



Only the principal trains and stations are mentioned. 

184 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



MANSOURAH— CAIRO, via ZAGAZIG 



Mansourah 
Abou-Kebir 
Zagazig . 

Bilbeis 
Calioub 
Cairo . 



dep. 

ary. 
dep. 



arr. 





A.M. 


A.M. 


P.M. 


1 

P.M. 




6. 


9.30 


1. 


4.15 




7.32 


11. 3 


2.29 


5.39 


A.M. 

6. 


8. 4 

8.45 


11.32 
11.50 


3. 


*6.10 
6.20 


3.45 


6.31 


9.16 


12.21 


4.16 


6.47 1 


7.39 


10.29 


1.34 


5.29 


7.59 


8. 


10.50 


1.55 


5.50 


8.20 



SALHIEH— ABOU-KEBIR 







A.M. 


A.M. 


P.M. 




P.M. 




Salhieh . 


. deb. 


5. 


9. 5 


12.50 


P.M. 


5.40 


P.M. 


Facous 




6. 


9.49 


1.38 


4.45 


6.28 


7.30 


Abou-Kebir 


. arr. 


6.32 


10.10 


2. 


5.10 


6.50 


7.55 



DAM lETT A— MANSOURAH— TANTAH 



Damietta 
Farascour 
Cherbine June. 
Mansourah 

Mehallet-Roh 
Tantah 



dep. 



arr. 
dsp. 

arr. 





A.M. 




P.M. 


i 

P.M. 




7.10 




2. 5 


4.10 




7.46 




2.40 


4.46 




8.29 




3.22 


5.29 j 


a.m. 


9. 1 


A.M. 


3.53 


6. 1 


7.10 


9. 6 


11.55 


3.58 


6. 6 1 


8.16 


10.13 


12.55 


4.59 


7.13 


8.35 


10.30 


1.12 


5.15 


7.30 



P.M. 

8. 5 
10.29 
11. 



DAMANHOUR— TANTAH, vii DESSOUK 



Damanhour . . dep. 

Dessouk . 
Kalline June. 
Mehallet-Roh jjunc. 
Tantah . . . arr. 



A.M. 

8.10 

8.52 

9.27 

10.23 

10.43 



A.M. 

10.15 
10.50 



noon 

12. 

12.37 

1.10 

2. 1 

2.20 



P.M. 

2.35 
3.11 
3.45 
4.41 
5. 



P.M. 

6.10 
6.47 
7.21 
8.16 
8.35 




KALLINE— CHERBINE 



Kalline Junc. . dep. 

Cherbine Jung. . arr. 



Onlv the principal]train3^aadjstatio:i3 are mentioned. 

185 



A.M. 


P.M. 








9.35 


1.45 








12.40 


4.55 


- 







EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 





TAN TAH— ACHEMOUN LINE 








TANTAH— ACHEMOUN 










A.M. 


A.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


Tan T AH 


. dep. 


5.45 


11.30 


2.40 


6.30 


Chebine-el-Kom . 




6.33 


12.22 


3.25 


7.21 


Menouf 




7. 6 


12.59 


3.57 


7.55 


ACHEMOUN 


. an. 


7.50 


1.45 


4.40 


8.40 




ACHEMOUN— TANTAH 






ACHEMOUN 


. dep. 


A.M. 


A.M. 


I 

P.M. 


P.M. 


Menouf 


M 


6.15 


8.30 


3. 5 


5. 


Chebine-el-Kom . 




7. 4 


9.17 


3.55 


5.46 


Tantah 


arr. 


7.37 


9.52 


4.30 


6.20 






8.20 


10.35 


5.15 


7. 5 



Note. — Only the principal stations are mentioned. 
TANTAH— ZIFTEH 



Tantah 
Mehallet-Roh 

ZiFTEH 



dep. 
arr. 

dep. 
arr. 




6.40 
7.45 



ZIFTEH— TANTAH 



ZiFTEH 

Mehallet-Roh 
Tantah 



dep. 
arr. 
dep. 
arr. 



A.M. 

6.55 
♦7.55 



8.16 
8.35 



A.M. 
11. 

♦12. 



12.55 
1.12 



P.M. 

3.25 
♦4.30 



4.41 
5. 



P..M. 

8. 

9. 5 
9.10 
9.30 



* Change trains at Melhallet-Roh Junction. 
CAIRO— BARRAGE 



Cairo 

Calioub 

Barrage 



dep. 



arr. 



A.M. 


A.M. 


A.M. 


P..M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


6.15 


8.40 


10.45 


1.15 


3.40 


5.25 


6.38 


8.58 


11. 8 


1.38 


3.58 


5.43 


6.50 


9.10 


11.20 


1.50 


4.10 


5.55 

1 



BARRAGE— CAIRO 



P.M. 

7.55 
8.23 
8.35 



Barrage 

Calioub 

Cairo 



dep. 



arr. 



A.M. 

7. 5 
7.19 
7.40 



i A.M. 

: 9.35 

9.48 

10. 5 



P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M.'^^ 


12. 5 


2.50 


4.40 


6.20 'i 


12.19 


3. 3 


4.54 


6.34 


12.40 


3.20 


5.15 


6.55 



P.M. 

k9-30; 

^9.44 J 

10.5 



Principal trains and stations onlv are mentioned. 

186 



11 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



CAIRO (PONT LIMOUN)— MATARIEH— MARG 





Cairo, dep. 




Marg, dep. — Every half- 


5. A.M. 


9.30 A.M. 


3. P.M. 


7.30 P.M. 


hour from 5.40 a.m. 


5.30 „ 


10. „ 


3.30 „ 


t*7.45 „ 


until 11.10 P.M. ; also 


6. „ 


10.30 „ 


4. „ 


8. „ 


at 12.40 and 2.10 a.m. 


6.30 „ 


11. „ 


4.30 „ 


8.30 ,, 


Matarieh, dep. — Everv 


t*6.45 „ 


11.30 „ 


t*4.45 „ 


9. „ 


half- hour from 5.49 


7. „ 


12. NOON 


5. „ 


9.30 „ 


A.M. till 11.19 p.m. ; 


7.30 „ 


12.30 P.M. 


t*5.15 „ 


10. „ 


also at *7.34, *8.9, 


t*7.45 „ 


1. „ 


5.30 „ 


10.30 „ 


*8.39 A.M., *2.9, *5.9, 


8. ,, 


1*1.15 „ 


6. ,, 


til. „ 


*5.39, *7.39, *8.9, 


t*8.15 „ 


1.30 „ 


6.30 „ 


12. MN. 


11.45 P.M., and 12.49, 


8.30 „ 


2. „ 


7. „ 


112.45 A.M. 


1.15, 2.19 A.M. 


9. ,, 


2.30 „ 


t*7.15 ,, 


1.30 „ 





* Express trains. 

Time occupied by journey from — 
Pont Limoun to Matarieh, 



t Matarieh only. 



15 minutes by express. 
21 minutes bv slow train. 



Pont Limoun to Marg, 29 minutes. 



RUE COLMAR— SUEZ DOCKS 



SUEZ DOCKS— RUE COLMAR 



Rue Colmar, 


dep. 


] 


Docks, dep. 




5.18 A.M. 


11.18 a.m. 


5.33 P.M. 


5.30 A.M. 


11. A.M. 


5.40 


5.48 „ 


11.48 „ 


6.18 „ 


6. „ 


11.30 „ 


6. 


6.18 „ 


12.48 P.M. 


6.48 „ 


6.30 „ 


12.15 P.M. 


6.30 


6.48 „ 


1.33 „ 


7.18 „ 


7. „ 


1.15 „ 


7. 


7.18 „ 


2. 3 „ 


7.48 „ 


7.30 „ 


1.45 „ 


7 30 


8.18 „ 


2.33 „ 


8.18 „ 


8. „ 


2.15 ,, 


8. 


8.48 „ 


3. 3 ,, 


8.48 „ 


8.30 „ 


2.45 „ 


8.30 


9.18 „ 


3.33 „ 


9.33 „ 


9. „ 


3.15 „ 


9. 


9.4^ „ 


4.13 „ 


10.33 „ 


9.30 „ 


3.45 „ 


10. 


10.18 „ 


4.33 „ 


11.43 „ 


10. „ 


4.45 ,, 


IL 


10.48 „ 


5. 3 „ 




10.30 „ 


5.15 „ 





Time occupied by journey, 6 minutes 



.M. 



187 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 





ALEX.ANDRIA— 


EDFI 


NA 




Alexandria . 
Sidi-Gabor June. 
Ramleh . 
Aboukir 


. dep. 
arr. 


* 

A.M. 

6 
6 11 
6.37 


A.M * 

7 30 a.m. 
7.44 9.10 
7.58 9.21 
— 9.47 


* 

a.m. 
10.50 
11. 1 
11.27 


* * 

P.M P.M. 

12.25-". 

12.36 2.11 

1. 2 2.37 


P.M * * * 
3.20 P.M. P.M. P.M. 

3.34 4.10 3.10 7.50 
3.48 4.21 6.21 8. 1 
4.24 4.47 6.47 8.27 


Edkou . 
Rosetta . 
Edfi.\a . 


9. b "■" 
9.48 
10.30 






0.20 
6 
6.40 



Trains marked thus * start from the Alexandria-Ramleh Railway Co.'s 
■station at Sidi-Gaber, not from the E.S.R. station. 

EDFINA— ALEXANDRIA 







A.M. 


P.M. 


£dfina 


. dep. 


5.10 


3. 


Rosetta . 






6. 4 




3.53 


Edkou 




A.M. 


6.42 


A.M. A.M. 


P.M. P.M. P.M. 4.33 P.M. P.M. 


Aboukir 




6.40 


7.55 


10. 11.35 


1.10 2.45 4.55 — 7. 8.35 


Ramleh 




7. 7 


8.22 


10.27 12. 2 


1.37 3.12 5.22,5.44 7.27 9. 2 


Sidi-Gaber June. 


nrr. 


7.17 


8.35 
8.45 


10.37 12.12 


1.47 3.22 5.32 5. 2 7.37 9.12 


Ale.xandria 







FAYOUM LIGHT RAILWAY CO.'S TIME-TABLES 
FAYOUM— TAMIEH TAM IEH— FAYOUM 



Fayoum . 
Sennoures 
Tamieh . 



defy. 



arr 



A.M. 


P..M. 


10.40 


3.40 


— 


5.20 


12.20 


6.15 



Tamieh. 

Sennoures 

Fayou.m 



def^. 



arr. 



A.M. P.M. 

6.15 12.50 
7.15 — 

8.40 2.30 



FAYOUM— LAHUN 



LAHUN— FAYOUM 



Fayoum 
Hawara 
Lahiv 



dep. 



arr. 



a.m. 


P.M. 


6. 5 


2.40 


6.39 


3.15 


7.20 


3.55 



Lahun . 
Hawara . 
Fayoum 



dep. 



arr. 



A.M. 


P M. 


7.40 


4.10 


8.24 


4.51 


8.55 


5.20 



FAYOUM— GHARAK 


•^ 


GHARAK- 


-FAYOUM 

A.M. P.M. 

6. 1. 
8. 5 , 3. 5 




Fayoum . dep. 
Gharak . arr. 


a.m. 
6. 

8. 5 


a.m. 

9. 

11. 5 


P.M. 

3.45 
5.45 


Gharak . dep. 
Fayou.m . arr. 


P.M. 

3.45 
5.45;3 



FAYOUM— NAZLEH-WADI 



NAZLEH-WADI— FAYOUM 









1 a.m. 


p. 


M. 


■ 






A 


m. 


p 


M 


Fayoum 


. 


dep. 


8.45 


4 





Nazleh- 


Wadi 


dep. 


6. 





1 


20 


Nazleh- 


Wadi 


arr. 


10.40 

i 1 


5 


55 


Fayou.m 
1 


• 


arr. 


7. 


55 


3 


15 



Principal trains and stations onlv are mentioned 

188 



APPENDIX IV 



EGYPTIAN DELTA LIGHT RAILWAY CO. 
HELOUAN BRANCH 



Winter Time-table 



Stations. 




a.m. 


A.M. 


A.M. 


A.M. 

Exp. 


A.M. 


A.M. 

Exp. 


A.M. 

Exp. 


A.M. 


P.M. 

Exp. 


Cairo (Bab-el-Louk) 


dep. 


6.50 


7.30 


8. 


9.15 


9.30 


10.15 


11.15 


11.30 


12.15. 


Saida Zenab . 




6.54 


7.34 


8. 4 


— 


9.34 


— 


— 


11.34 


— 


Fin-el- Khalig 




— 


7.37 




— 


9.37 


— 


— 


11.87 


— 


Saint Georges. 




8.59 


7.40 




— 


9.40 


— 


— 


11.40 


— 


Sahel-el-Ebli 




7. 4 


7.45 


— 


— 


9.45 


— 


— 


11.45 


— 


Meadi . 


., 


7.10 


7.50 


8.16 


— 


9.50 


— 


— 


11. .50 


12. 2& 


TOURAH 


arr. 
dep. 


7.14 
7.17 


7.53 


8.20 

8.22 


9.32 
9.34 


9.53 


10.32 
10.34 


11.32 
11.34 


11.53 


12.3a 






12.34^ 


Massarah 




7.27 




8.32 


— 




10.44 


— 




— 


Helouan 


arr. 


7.35 




8.40 


9.50 


10.52 

1 


11.50 




12.50 




Stations. 




P.M. 


P.M. 


P.-M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P..M. 


P.M. 


P.M. A.M. 






Exp. 


Rpd. 


Exp. 




Exp. 


Exp. 




.' 


Cairo (Bab-el-Louk) 


dep. 


6.20 


6.45 


7.30 


7.35 


8.30 


9.40 


10.40 


11.401.30 


Saida Zenab . 




— 


— 


— 


7.39 


— 


— 


10.44 


11.44i — 


Fin-el- Khalig 




— 


— 


— 


— 




— 


— 


— ' — 


Saint Georges. 




— 


— 


— 


7.44 




— 


10.4911.49 1.3}^ 


Sahel-el-EDli 




— 


— 


— 


— 





— 


— — , — 


Meadi . 




— 


— 


— 


7.53 


— 


— 


10.5911.59 — 


Tourah 


arr. 


6.37 





7.47 


7.55 


8.47 


9.57 


11. 3 12. 3 1.5a 




dep. 


6.39 


— 


7.49 


"^' 


8.49 


9.58 


11. 5 12. 4 1.51 


Massarah 


,, 


6.49 


— 


— 




8.59 


— 


11.15; — i — 


Helouan 


arr. 


6.57 


7.15 8. 5 

i 




9.17 


10.14 


11.2312.20 2. 7 

1 1 



Sundays only. 
189 



APPENDIX IV 



EGYPTIAN DELTA LIGHT RAILWAY CO. 

HELOUAN BRANXH 



Winter Time-table — {continued) 



Stations. 




A.M. A.M. 


A.M. 


A.M. A.M. 


A.M. 


A.M. 


A.M. 










Rpde. 


Exp. 




Exp. 


Exp. 




Helouak . 


dep. 


6. 


7. 


7.45 


8. 




9.10 


10.10 




Massarah . 




6.10 


— 


— 


8.10 




— 


10.20 




TOURAH . 


arr. 


8.18 


7.16 


— 


8.18 




9.26 


10.28 


^._ 




dep. 


6.20 


7.18 


— 


8.20 


8.40 


9.28 


10.30 


10.40 


Meadi 




6.25 


7.23 


— 


— 


8.44 


— ■ 


— 


10.44 


Sahel-el-Ebli 




— 


7.29 


— 


— • 


8.49 


— 


— 


10.49 


Saint Georges . 






7.34 


— 


— 


8.54 


— 


— 


10.54 


Fin-el-Khalig . 







— 


— 


— 


8.57 


— 


— 


10.57 


Saida ZenaD 






7.39 


— 


— 


9. 


— 


— 


11. 


Cairo ( Bab-el- Louk) . 


arr. 


6.39 


7.42 


8.15 


8.37 


9. 3 


9.45 


10.47 


11. 3 



ST.A.T10XS, 

Helouan 

Massarah 

ToURAH 

Meadi 

Sahel-el-Ebli 
Saint Georges 
Fin-el- Khahg 
Saida Zenab 
Cairo (Bab-el-Louk) 





A.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. ! 




Exp. 


Exp. 






Exp. 


. dep. 


11.10 


12.10 




1.10 


2.10 


' 


— 


12.20 




— 


— 


. arr. 


11.26 


12.28 


,i_^ 


1.26 


2.26 


dep. 


11.28 


12.30 


12.40 


1.28 


2.28 




— 


— 


12.44 


1.33 


— 




— 


— 


12.49 




— 


• >> 





— 


12.54 


1.44 


— 


• >> 


— 


— 


12.57 


— 


— 




— 


— 


1. 1.49 


— 


k) arr. 


11.45 


12.47 


1. 3 


1.52 


2.45 



P.M. 



2. 40 1 
2.44 
2.49 
2.54 
2.57 
3. 
3. 3, 



P.M. 

Exp. 
3.10 
3.20 
3.28 
3.30 



P.M. 

Exp. 
4.10 

4.26 

4.28 



3.47 4.45 



'P.M. 



4.40 
4.44 
4,49 
4.54 
4.57 
5. 
5. 3 



Stations. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


a.m. 


Helouan . dep. 
Massarah . ,, 


Exp. 
5.10 
5.20 


Rpde. 
*8. 


Exp. 
6.20 




Exp. 
7.30 
7.40 


Exp. 
8.15 




Exp. 
9.30 


10.30 
10.40 


Exp. 
12.45 


TouRAH . arr. 


5.28 


— 


6.36 


^^_ 


7.48 


8.31 


^^i^" 


9.46 


10.48 


1. 1 


dep. 
Meadi . . ,, 
Sahel-el-Ebli . ,, 


5.30 


— 


6.3S 


e.45 

6.49 
6.54 


7.50 


8.33 


8.40 
8.44 


9.48 


10.50 
10.55 


1. 2 


Saint Georges. ,, 
Fin-el- Khahg ,, 
Saida Zenab . ,, 
Cairo (Bab-el- 


— 


— 




6.59 — 
7. 2 — 

7. 5j - 


— 


8.53 
8.58 


— 


11. 5 
11.10 


— 


Louk) . arr. 5.47 

1 


6.30 


6.55 


7. 8 8. 7 

1 


8.50 


9. 1 10. 5 

1 


11.13 


1.19 



* Sundays onlv. 
190 



APPENDIX IV 



SUDAN GOVERNMENT RAILWAYS 

Winter Time-table 

KHARTOUM— HALFA 







Ex- 


Boat 






Ex- 


Boat 


o 






press. 


Ex- 






press. 


Ex- 








Dining 


press. 






Dining 


press. 








and 


Dining 


1 




and 


Dining 


B a 






Sleep- 


and 


i 




Sleep- 


and 


It" ^ 






ing 


Sleep'g 


1 




ing 


Sleep'g 








Cars. 


Cars. 






Cars. 


Cars. 








P.M. 


P.M. 






P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


Khartoum N. dep. 


9.15^ 


9.15^ 


Halfa 


dep. 


3. Ob 


— 


3. 


Kadaru 


• >> 


— 


— 






A.M. 






Gubba 


• >> 


— 


— 


Kareima . 


? J 


10.35 




A.M. 


Wad Ramleh 


>> 


10.30 


10.30 


Abou Hamed 


>> 


1.50c 




1..50 


Gebel Gerri 


• >> 


— 


— 


Suakin . 


yy 


9.35& 


4. Oh 


— 






A.M. 


A.M. 


Port Sudan 




10. 


8. 


. 


Wad Ben Naga ,, 


12.45c 


12.45/ 








A.M. 


A.M. 


Shendi 


• >> 


2. 


2. 


Atbara 


> > 


9. Oc 


11.30/ 


8.10 


Taragma 


' >> 


— 


— 


El Damar . 


* y 


9.25 


11.55 


^, — 


Kabushia 


>> 


— 


— 








P.M. 




Om All 


>> 


— 


— 


Zeidab 


> > 


9.57 


12.27 


t3 


Mutmir 


>> 


3.50 


3.50 


Aliab 11 


> J 


— 


— 


i-i 

00 


Aliab . 


> J 


— 


— 


Mutmir 


} } 


11. 8 


1.38 


TJ >*. 


Zeidab 


ft 


4.55 


4.55 


Om Ali 


y y 


— 






El Damar 


}> 


5.30 


5.30 


Kabushia . 


y y 


— 




rt ^ 


Atbara 


arr. 


5.50 


5.50a: 


Taragma 


jy 


P..M. 


— 










P.M. 


Shendi 


y J 


1. 5 


3.35 




Port Sudan 


>f 


7.25d 


8.15 


Wad Ben Naga 


I „ 


2.10 


4.40 


4-r 


Suakin 


n 


11. Od 


8.30 


Gebel Gerri . 


} y 


— 


— 


1-1 






P.M. 


P.M. 


Wad Ramleh 


y y 


4.25 


C.55 




Abou Hamed 


dep. 


12. 30^ 

A.M. 


12.30 


Gubba 
Kadaru 


y y 


— ; 


— 


P.M. 


Kareima 


arr. \ 

j 


11. 45^ 

P.M. 


P..M. 


Khartoum N. 


arr. 


5.30 


8. 


7. 5 


Halfa . 


1 
" 1 


10.15? 


10.15 













h Sundays, Thursdays. c Mondays, Fridays. d Tuesdays, Saturdays. 

e Tuesdays. / Wednesdays. g Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, h Fridays, 
i Saturdays, x Through coach for Haifa to be detached. 



191 



APPENDIX IV 



SUDAN GOVERNMENT RAILWAYS 
SUAKIN— ATBARA— KHARTOUM NORTH— HALFA 







Boat 








Boat 








Ex- 


Mixed. 






Ex- 


Mixed. 






press. 








press. 








P.M. 


1 1' 

P.M. 




P.M. P.M. 


C Graham's 


1 


Halfa . 


dtp. 


— 3. Od 


SUAKIN -J Pt. 

(. Shata 


dep. 


; 4. 0^ 


9.35rf I 




A.M. 




4.15 


9.50 1 Kareima 


1 

? 9 \ 


— 10.35d 


Handub 


11 f 


4.50 


10.25 Abu Hamed . 


" 


— 1.50^ 


Sal lorn June. . 


« J 


i 6.10 


11.20 ! 




P.M. ' P.M. 


Port Sud.\n 


arr. 


7.20 


— Khartoum N. 




9.15/1 9.15<i 


Port Sud.\x 


dep. 


! 8. Oa 


10.0 




A.M. A.M. 


Asotriba 


, , 


— 


10.50 Atbara Junc. 


5 ? 


7.15/ i 9.50« 


Sallom Junc. 


arr. 


i 9.10 


11.40 




P.M. ' P.M. 


Sallom Junc. . 


dep. 


' 9.20 


11.55 Taljrwareb 
P.M. Shideib 


» > 


1.28 7. 
— 7.45 


Obo 




— 


1.20 Einha . 


*> 


— < 8.55 


Ka mob Sana 


.. 


11. 5 


2.35 Thamiam 


1 1 


3.15 ! 10.30 


Erta 


•• 


A.M. 


3.50 Erheib . 


!» 


— 1 11.40 

A.M. 


Gebeit 




1. 0^ 


5.10 Barameyu 


,. 


— 12.45/ 


Smnmit . 




2. 


6.25 Summit. 




— 2. 


Barameyu 




— 


7. Gebeit . 


., 


, 5.20 3.10 


Erheib 


.. 


— 


7.35 Erba 


,] 


— 3.50 


Thamiam 


.. 


3.40 


8.15 Kamobsana . 


• 5 


— 4.45 


Einha 




— 


9. Obo 




— ' 5.25 


Shidcib . 




— 


9.45 Sallom Junc. 


arr. 


7. i 5.55 


Talg^vareb 




5.30 


10.20 1 Sallom J UN 
A.M. , Asotriba 


c.dep. 

J 9 


7.10 


6.15 
6.55 


Atbara Junc. 


arr. 


11. 


4.50^' ! Port Sud.\n 


arr. 


8.15 


7.25 






P.M. 


1 P.M. Sallom Junc. 


dep. 


7.10 ' 9.40 


Khartoum N. . 


yy 


1 8. 


t 5.30 Handub 


}f 


; 7.50 10.20 


Abu Hamed 




— 


12.15 II ^Shat 
^.M. '! SuAKiN-<Grah 


a 
am's 


' 8.25 10.55 

1 


Kareima 


" 


4.45 


4.45/ 


CPt. . 


arr. 


i 8.30 11. 


H.\LFA 


•' 


— 


P.M. 
lO.lDtf 






1 



a Fridays, b Saturdays, c Sundays, d Thursdays, Sunda>'s. e Fridays, 
Mondays. / Saturdays, Tuesdays, s Fridays, Saturdays, Mondays, Tuesdays. 
k Tuesdays, i Wednesdavs. 



192 



APPENDIX IV 



SUDAN GOVERNMENT RAILWAYS 
ABU HAMED—ATBARA— KHARTOUM NORTH— PORT SUDAN 







Express 

P.M. 


Mixed. 






! 
Express 

.A..M. 


Mixed. 

A.M. 


H.\LFA 


dep. 


3. 0* 


— 


Port Sudan* . 


dep. 


10. 0-7 


— 


Haifa Camp 


;> 


3.12* 


— 






P M. 




No. 6 Staticn 


) J 


9.40* 

A.M. 


— 


Khartoum N, 


}/ 


9.15 

A.M. 


7. 0- 

P.M. 


Abu Hamed 


arr. 


1.35*6 


— 


Atbara June. . 


,, 


t6.156 


7. 0/ 


Kareima 


del?. 


10.35.1 


— 


DamaUi. 


> J 


t6.40 


7.45 








P.M. 


Berber . 


j> 


t7. 5 


8.49 


Abu Hamed 


y > 


1.50* 


1. 0^ 


Abidia . 


>> 


t7.50 


9.45 


Dag ash . 


> > 


— 


2.10 


Abu Sillem 


j> 


t9.57 


11.55 


Abu Dis 


> ? 


— 


3.30 








.A..M. 


Shereik . 




3.12* 


5.40 


Shereik 


>» 


tlO.5 


1.40/2 


Abu Sillem 


• 


5.25* 


8. 


Abu Dis 


5> 


— 


3.10 


Abidia 


,, 


6.25* 


9.40 


Dagash 


> J 


— 


4.25 


Berber 


« 1 


7.10* 


10.50 






P.M. 




Damalli . 


y ) 


7.40* 


11.35 

A.M. 


Abu Hamed . 


arr: 


tl2.15 

A.M. 


5.25 


At BAR A Juxc. 


ar/. 


8. 0* 

P.M. 


12.20/ 

P.M. 


Kareima 


>> 


4.45!? 

P..M. 




Khartoum N. 


. 


5.30 


7. be 


Abu Hamed . 


dep. 


tl2.30 








A.M. 




No. 6 station , 


5 5 


t 5. 




Port Sudax 


' J » 


7.2.5c 




Haifa Camp . 




tlO. 3 








■ 




Halfa . 


arr. 


tl0.15 





a Sundays, Thursdays. b Mondays, Fridays. c Tuesdays, Saturdays. 
d Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays. e Daily from Atbara. / Tues- 
days, Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays. g Daily to Atbara. h Mondays, 
Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays. * Intermediate Express — Tuesdays to 
Atbara Junction, t Intermediate Express — Wednesdays to Haifa. 



LOCAL TRAINS— PORT SUDAN— SUAKIN 



Port Sudan 
Asotriba . 
Sallom June. 
Handub 
Shata 
Graham's Pt. 



Mixed. 


Mixca. 


A.M. 


P.M. 


. dep. 8. Qa 


5.306 


. .. 8.45 


6.15 


9.40 


7.10 


,, 10.20 


7.50 ; 


. ,, 10.55 


8.25 


. arr. 11. 


8.30 1 

1 



Graham's Ft. 
Shata 
Handub 
Sallom Juno. . 

Asotriba 
Port Sudan . 



dep. 



arr. 



Mixed. 


Mixed. 


A.M. 


P..M. 


9.35rt 


3.35'> 


9.50 


3.50 


10.35 


4.25 


11.40 


5.30 


P.M. 




12.15 


G.15 


12.45 


G.40 



a Sundays, Wednesdays, Thursdays. 
6 Fridays, Saturdays, Mondays, 
Tuesdavs, 



a Saturdays, Sundays, Mondays, 
Tuesdays, Fridays. 

6 Wednesdays, Thursdays. 

Passengers for boat express to change at Port Sudan 

193 



o 



APPENDIX 1 \^ 



SUDAN GOVERNMENT RAILWAYS 

KAREIMA—ATBARA— KHARTOUM NORTH— PORT SUDAN 







MixeQ. 




1 

! 


Mixed. 






A.M. 






a.m. 


Kareima 


. dep. 


10.35a 

P.M. 


Port Sudan 


. dep. 


10. Oa 

P.M. 


Kassingar 


• J J 


12.15 


Khartoum North 


' J f 


9.15a 


Amraho . 


>> 


1.35 






A.M. 


Abu Haraz 


• ? > 


8. 


Atbara Junction 


• r» 


6.156 


Abu Gharban . 


• > > 


4.15 






P.M. 


Dakfili . 


• > > 


5.35 


Haifa . 


> > 


3. Oa 


El Kab . 


> > 


6.40 


Abu Hamed . 


J ) 


4. 56 


Kehcili . 


• > > 


8. 


No. 10 Junction 


' 1 >f 


5.20 


Mehaiza 


• ? > 


9.35 


Mehaiza 


t> 


6.25 


No. 10 Junction 


• J » 


10.40 


Keheih . 


- 1 M 


7.40 


Abu Ha.med 


rt^;'. 


11.45 


El Kab . 


• J9 ' 


9. 


Haifa 


• J J 


10.15& 


Dakfili . 


• JT 


10.20 






A.M. 


Abu Gharban 


*"' > 7 


11.40 


Atbara Junction 


>> 


8. 06 






; A.M. 






P.M. 


Abu Haraz 


• 


12.50c 


Khartoum North 


• >> 


5.396 


Amraho . 


• .•» 


2.15 






A.M. 


Kassingar 




3.45 


Port Sudan 


• J J 


7.25c 


Kareima 


. an-. 


4.45 



a Sundays, Thursdays. 6 Mondays, Fridays, c Tuesdays, Saturdays. 



194 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 



RAILWAY FARES AND BAGGAGE RATES 





1 
1 


' Bag- 










1st 


, 2nd 


i gage 

1 -1 rv 




1st 


2nd 




class. 


rlas<; 1 ^'"- -^" 
^^^^^- I kilo- 




class. 


class. 




Ft. 


Pt. 


grams. 

Mil- 
liemes. 








Cairo to 


1 

! Port Said to 


Pt. 


Pt. 


Abchaway . 


67* 


34 


25.0 


Assouan . 


318 


195 


Alexandria 


87* 


43* 


32.16 


Cairo 


95 


47* 


Assiou t 


1321 


66" 


46.37 


Ismailia 


37-1 


19" 


Assouan . 


258i 


129 


57.09 


Luxor 


264i 


1321 


Ayat 


29 


14^ 


11.16 


Suez (town) 


75 


37* 


Baliana 


168 


84 


50.6 ' 








Barrage Single . 


6 


4 


5.2 


Suez (town) to 






Return 


8* 


5* 


' 


Cairo 


96* 


48* 


Bedrechein 


16 1 


8l 


6.46 ■ 


Ismailia 


44* 


22 


Benha 


23 


11* 


8.98 ! 


Port Said . 


75 


37 


Bilbeis 


28-1- 


14* 


11.0 








Damanhour 


66i 


33" 


24.57 


Fayoum (Mecinet) to 






Damietta . 


85* 


43 


31.. 52 


Abou Kerkas 


89 


44* 


Facous 


0-2 


26i 


19.67 


Abouxah . 


12 


6 


Fayoum (Medinef 


59 1- 


30 


22.12 


Abchaway. 


10 


5 


Ismailii . 


70 


35 


25.88 


Assiou t 


118* 


• 59* 


Kena 


190* 


95* 


52.22 


Assouan . 


247 J 


124 


Luxor 


208" 


103" 


53.33 : 


Cairo 


59-1 


30 


Mansourah 


63* 


32 


23.56 i 


Dair-Moes 


100* 


50* 


Minieh 


99* 


49 1 


36.48 1 


Luxor 


192* 


96* 


Port Said . 


95" 


47* 


34.97 


Sennoures 


6" 


3 


Rosetta 


105 


52| 


38.41 








Salhieh 


60* 


30^ 


22.55 


Shellal to 






Shellal 


261" 


1301 


57.29 


Alexandria 


310 


155 


Sidi-Gaber 


83 


43 


31.62 


Assouan . 


5 


2i 


Suez (docks) 


98 


49 


36.05 


Cairo 


261 


130* 


(town; 


9G* 


48i 


35.51 


Luxor 


91* 


45* 


Tantah 


41| 


21 


15-69 


Port Said . 


3201 


160" 


Tel-el- Kebir 


50* 


25 


18.81 


Suez. 


320^ 


160* 


Zagazig . 


37" 


18* 


14.07 


AssiouT to 






Alexandria to 








Abou Kerkas 


52 


26 


Aboukir Single 


5* 


4^ 


5.02 


Assouan . 


164 


82 


Return 


8* 


7 




Baliana 


65 


32* 


Assouan . 


307| 


154 


60.62 


Cairo 


1321 


66 


Cairo 


87i 


43^ 


32.16 


Dair-Moes 


35 


171 


Edfina 


34 


17 


12.94 


Fayoum (Medinet 


1181 


591 


Luxor 


255 


1271 


56.86 


Kena 


95 


47* 


Rosetta 


34,^ 


171 


13.1 


Luxor 


111* 


56" 


Tantah 


56i 


28 


20.97 ; 


Sohag 


44 


22 



Bag- 
gage 
per 10 
: kilo- 
jgrams. 



Mil- 
liemes. 

61.38 

34.97 
, 14.24 
I 57.54 

27.65 



35.51 
16.67 
27.65 



32.81 

5.02 

4.3 

42.93 

56.12 

22.12 

36.88 

52.36 

2.86 



60.82 

2.86 

57.29 

33.57 

61.56 

61.58 



19.38 
50.29 
24.14 
46.37 
13.26 
42.93 
34.97 
40.84 
I 16.5 



195 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 

EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 
RAILWAY FARES— {continued) 



Baliana to 

Assiout 

Assouan 

Cairo 

Luxor 

Kena 

Kexa to 

Assiout 

Assouan 

Baliana 

Cairo 

Luxor 

Luxor to 
Alexandria 
Assiout 
Assouan 
Baliana 







Bag- 


i 


1st 


2nd 


gage 


' 


class. 


class. 


per 10 
kilo- 
grams. 


1 

1 


Pt. 


Pt. 


Mil- 
liemes. 


i 

1 


65 


321 


24.14 




128 


64 


45.45 




168 


84 


50.6 


1 


68^ 


34* 


25.38 




1 m 

1 


22 


16.34 




95 


47.^ 


34.97 




105^ 


52* 


38.59 




43* 


22 


16.34 




190^ 


95^- 


52.22 




30* 


15 


11.64 




255 


127^ 


56.86 


! 


lllf 


56 


40.84 




87^ 


44 


32.27 




^68* 


34i 


25.38 





LuxoR to 
Cairo 
Esneh 
Edfou 

Fayoum (Medinet) 
Kena 

Kom Ombo 
Port Said . 
Shellal 



Assouan to 
Alexandria 
Cairo 
Edfou 
Esneh 
Kom Omoo 
Luxor 
Port Said . 
Shellal 



1st 


1 
2nd j 


class. 


diss. 


Pt. 


Pt. ! 

1 


206 


103 


281 


14^; 


50^ 


25 ; 


192* 


96* 


301 


15 


73 


36^ i 


264* 


132* 


91* 


45* 


307^ 


154 


258* 


129 


48* 


2^ = 


68 


34 i 


24* 


12* 


87* 


44 


318 


195 


6 


3 



Bag- 
gage 
DerlO 
kilo- 
grams. 

Mil- 
lliemes. 

53.33 

11.0 

18.81 

52.36 

11.64 

27.02 

57.54 

33.57 



60.62 
57.09 
19.82 
25.25 

9.52 
32.27 
61.38 

2.86 



Children. — Children under four years of age are carried free of charge. From 
four to ten years of age, at half rate. Only in the latter case are they entitled 
to a seat. 



IMATARIEH LINE FARES 
Between anv stations. 



1st class, single 
2nd 



3 pt. 
2 .. 



Return 



4* pt. 
3 ., 



SLEEPING-CAR SUPPLEMENTS 



From Cairo to Luxor . 
,, ,, Sohag . 

,, ,, Assiout 

,, ,, Alexandria 

,, Assiout to Luxor 



100 pt. vice versa 100 pt, 
90 „ „ 75 „ 

70 „ „ 70 „ 

30 „ „ 30 „ 

35 ,, ,, 55 .. 



LUNCHEON- AND DINING-CAR TARIFF 



Breakfast (with meat) 

Luncheon 

Dinner 



196 



30 pt. 
20 „ 
25 .. 



EGYPTIAN STATE RAILWAYS 

RESERVED COMPARTMENTS 

Applications for reserved compartments must be addressed to the departure 
station at least twenty-four hours in advance. Compartments thus applied for 
will be reserved, when circumstances pern_it, against payment of the price of 
five tickets for a first-class compartment, and six tickets for a second class com- 
partment. These fares must be paid at the departure station. 

Saloons 
Saloons can be attached to all trains provided they are disengaged. As long 
notice as possible should be given beforehand to the station-master of the depar- 
ture station, or to the Traffic Manager E.S.R. Cairo,, who will furnish all par- 
ticulars. 

Saloons between Luxor and Assouan 

Saloons, with or without sleeping-berths, may be hired between Luxor and 
Assouan by parties not exceeding six persons. The price is LE3 in addition to 
the ordinary first-class fares. 

Application for these should be made to the General Superintendent at Luxor 
twenty- four hours in advance. 

SPECIAL TRAINS 

Applications for special trains must be addressed to the departure station at 
least five hours in advance. The letter must state the destination, number of 
passengers, class of carriages, number and description of animals to be trans- 
ported, and approximate weight of the luggage. 

The price of a special train is calculated upon the number of passengers, plus 
20 per cent, of the ordinary fares. Animals and luggage are charged for at the 
ordinary coaching rates. 

The minimum, charge for the train is fixed at 200 milliemei- per kilometre, 
with a minimum total charge of LE5 (five Egyptian pounds). 

Demurrage rates will be charged in accordance with the tariff. 

TRANSPORT OF BAGGAGE 

Transport charges must be paid on all luggage excepting that taken in the 
compartments. 

Luggage must not be placed in the corridors of the carriages. 

Passengers may leave their luggage at the principal stations against receipt,, 
at the rate of 5 milliemes per parcel, and per twenty- four hours or portion 
of twenty- four hours. 

If the luggage is left at the arrival station, the transport receipt for same 
must be given up with the parcels. 

Luggage may also be sent by goods train, at the same rates, and under the 
same conditions as those established for the transport of goods. For rates apply 
to " The Goods Manager," E.S.R., Cairo, and all station-masters. 

CAB FARES 

CAIRO 
By distance. 

If hired and discharged within the City circle, 4 kilometres (about 

2i miles) radius from Opera Square ; Pt< 

For 1 kilometre, or part ....... 3 

For each extra kilometre, or part ...... 2 

If hired within and discharged without, an additional 2 piastres must 
be paid for every kilometre or part of kilometre outside the circle. 
If hired by distance, for each wait of 15 minutes j . , .2 

197 



APPENDIX IV 



By J i me. 

If hired by time (driver to be notified). 
For 1 hour or less, by day or night 
Above 1 hour : every 15 minutes or less 

' ' For 12 hours, by day or night . 

Special fares. 

Polo ground 
Ghezireh Hotel 
Grand Stand (race days) 
Ghizeh Zoological Gardens 
Pyramids 
Foom-el-Khalig 
Old Cairo 

Abbassieh Barracks 
Koobeh-les-Bains 
HeUopolis and Virgin's Tree 
Citadel .... 
Tombs of Khalifs 
Rod-el-Farag . 
Shoobra Palace 
Extra payments. 

Whether hired by distance or time : 
For each package carried outside 
If more than 3 persons carried, each extra person 







8 






2 




'. 


60 




Return 




Single. 


after 




Pt. 


waiting 


Pt. 


5 


] hour 


15 


5 


1 M 


15 


10 


3 „ 


30 


10 


2 


20 


40 


3 ',', 


CO 


8 


1 „ 


15 


10 


1 „ 


18 


8 


1 „ 


15 


12 


1 M 


20 


25 


2 „ 


40 


8 


1 „ 


15 


10 


3 „ 


30 


8 


2 „ 


20 


10 


i „ 


15 

Pt. 

1 
1 



ALEXANDRIA 



'Town tariff. 



A drive not exceeding 10 minutes 

20 



One-horse Two-horse 



Cab. 

Pt. 
2 
2h 
3" 



Cab. 
Pt. 

3 

4 



for a one-horse 



Beyond 30 minutes, 2 pt. for every quarter of an hour for a two-horse cab, 
and i| pt. for a one-horse cab. 

Fractions of a quarter of an hour count as a quarter of an hour. 

From 11 P.M. to 6 a.m. the above fares are increased by h pt. 
cab and 1 pt. for a two-horse cab, for every |-hour or fraction. 

Special tariff from the interior to the exterior of the town, and vice 
versa : 

Drive to Hadra, No. 3 Palace, Lombroso, Ibrahimieh 
Casino ......... 

Going and returning, with half-hour waiting 
Drive to Ibrahimieh, Sidi-Gaber, Wardian, Abattior 

Going and returning, with one hour waiting . 
Drive to Bulkeley (Station), Antoniadis, Nouzha Gardens 

Going and returning, with one hour waiting . 
Drive to Fleming, Souk, Bacos ..... 

Going and returning, with 1 hour waiting 
Drive to San Stcfano, Hotel Bcau-Rivage, Ramleh 
(Government Railway), Hagar Nawatieh, Mex : 

Going only (San Stefano excluded) 

Going only (to San Stcfano) .... 

Going and returning, with 11 hour waiting 

By night the above fares will be increased in the same way as for the town 
-tariff. 

19S 



5 . 


. 8 


8 . 


. 12 


7 . 


. 10 


10 . 


. 15 


8 . 


. 12 


14 . 


. 20 


10 . 


. 14 


15 . 


. 22 


14 . 


. 18 


12 . 


. 16 


20 . 


. 30 



APPENDIX IV 



RAMLEH AND SIDI-GABER 

The'town tariff applies to Ramleh district when cabs are taken and dismissed 
within^the perimeter of the saic. district, i.e., between Abou-Nawatir, Hotel Beau- 
Rivage, Gabrial Station. The same for Ibrahimieh district included between 
Collines de Hadra, Ramleh Road, Cleopatra Baths and the sea. 

From Sidi-Gaber Station to Bacos, Souk, Rosetta Road Pt, Pt. 

and Greek Church (Zizinia) . . . . . 6 .. 8 

Beyond that limit, i.e., from Sidi-Gaber to San Stefano, 

Beau-Rivage, &c 8 . . 10 



Fares 



NILE FERRIES, CAIRO 

Ghezirsh Hotel.* 

English Bridge and Ghezireh. 

Kasr-el-Nil and Foom-el-Khalig. 

Roda I. and Old Cairo.* 

Ghezireh and Qatr-el-Nabi Wakr. 

El Khabiri, Tura and Sheikh Etman. 

Eshra and Quasr Bint-el-Barudi. 

Bein-el-Qusura. 

First class, 1 pt., on steam ferry. Ordinary far'^, \ pt- 



CAIRO DONKEY FARES 



For a short ride in town 
For a short ride by the hour . 
For a shoit ride by the day . 
For a whole day outside town 

Besides the above fares the donkey-boy will expect a little bakshish, the 
amount of which will depend upon how long he has been engaged. A piastre or 
two will be sufficient. 



Pt. 

2 

8 

10 to 15 

20 



PORT OF ALEXANDRIA 

Tariff for Passenger-boat Hire 



Day 
Service. 
Pt. 



For one or two passengers from the Landing-places or 
Quays to : 

Any ship in the Careening Basin or at the Arsenal Wharf . 

Any ship in the Inner Harbour . . . . 

Any ship or place on shore in the Outer Harbour as far as 
Buheirah Beacon and end of Breakwater, or vice versa 

Any ship outside the Passes or Port Adjami, or vice versa 
By the hour with two men : 

For the first hour 

For each additional hour , 
By the hour with four men : 

For the first hour 

For each additional hour . 



Extra Char 



gcs 



Each trunk' or portmanteau 

Each small package not carried in the hand 



5 
10 

8 
6 

9 




Night 
Service. 
,Pt. 



3 

8 
15 

10 

8 

12 

8 



* Steam Fcrrv. 
199 



APPENDIX IV 



STEAMSHIP INFORMATION 

The dates of sailing and fares, given below, are as accurate as possible, but 
cannot be guaranteed. 

PENINSULAR AND ORIENTAL 

London — Brindisi — Perl Said — Cairo 

(1st class only.) Approximate times : 
Leave London, Friday night. 
,, Brindisi, Sunday night. 
Arrive Port Said, Wednesday morning. 

,, Cairo, Wednesday 1.25 p.m. or 5 p.m. 

Leave Cairo, Sunday 6.15 p.m. 

,, Port Said, Sunday night. 
Arrive London, Friday evening. 

London (Tilbury Docks) — Marseilles — Port Said 
Leaving London on Friday. 

Leaving Marseilles on the following Friday morning about 10 a.m. 
Arriving Port Said on Tuesday. 

Port Said — Marseilles — London {Tilbury Docks) 

Lea\ing Port Said on Monday after the arrival of the midday train. 
Arri\ing Marseilles on Satuiday. 
Arriving London on Sunday. 

1st class. 2nd class 

£ £ 

Fares : between London and Port Said . . 19 . . 13 

between Marseilles, Port Said, and vice versa 13 . . 9 

Overland P. & O. Express to Marseilles with sleeping-car, and Marseilles to 

Port Said, 1st class only, f2S 16s. 2d. 



ORIENT LINE 

Sailings every other Friday, commencing November 1, 1907, frcm Lcndon 
Marseilles, Naples and Port Said. 

For return sailings apply to the Company's Agent at Port Said. 

1st class. 2nd class. 

£ £ 

Fares: between Pert Said and Marseilles . . ]3 .. 1) 

„ „ ,, ,, London . . 19 . . 12 

I, ,, ,, ,, Naples . . 9 . . 7 



BIBBY LINE 
Liverpool — London — Marseilles — Port Sa id 

Steamers leave Liverpool every other Thursday, commencing November 
1P07. 

1st class. 

£ 

Fares : between Port Said and Marseilles .... 12 

„ „ ,, ,, London .... 17 

For return sailings apply to the Companv's Agent at Port Said. _ 

200 



APPENDIX IV 



ANCHOR LINE 

Sailing between Liverpool, London, Marseilles, and Fort Said everv 10 davs 

i 
Fares : between Port Said and Marseilles .... 9 

,, London .... 14 

,, Liverpool .... 14 
For return sailings apply to the Company's Agent at Snez. 

MOSS LINE 

Liverpool — Malta — Alexandria 

Leaving Liverpool every other Saturday, commencing November 2, 1907. 

Return sailings from Alexandiia about every 14 days. 

For particulars applv to the Company's Agent at Alexandria. 

Ist class. 2nd class. 

i £ 

Fares : between Alexandria and Malta . . 5 . . 3 

,, ,, ,, Liverpool . . 14 . . 9 

NORDDEUTSCHER LLOYD 

Marse illes — Naples — A lexandvia Service 

By the steamers Schlesii'ig and Hohenzollern, leaving Marseilles every Wednes- 
day at 3 P.M., and Naples the following Friday at noon, arriving at Alexandria 
on Monday. 

Return. — Leave Alexandria every Wednesday at 3 p.m., and Naples the follow- 
ing Saturday night, arriving Marseilles on Monday. 

Fares : Marseilles and Alexandria and vice versa, 1st class from £13 ; 2ndi 
class from £9. 
Naples and Alexandria and vice versa, Ist class £11 ; 2nd class AS. 

Southampton — Naples — Port Said Service 

Steamers leave Southampton, Nov. 3, 12, 26 ; Dec. ], 10, 24, 29 ; Jan. 7, 21, 26 ;. 

Feb. 4, 18, 23 ; March 3, 17, 22, 31. 
Steamers leave Naples, Nov. 7, 11, 21 ; Dec. 5, 9, 19 ; Jan. 2, 6, 16, 30 ; Feb. 3,. 

13, 27 ; March 2, 12, 26, 30 ; April 9. 
Arrive Port Said, Nov. 11, 15, 25 ; Dec. 9, 13, 23 ; Jan. 6, 10, 20 ; Feb. 3, 7, 17 \. 

March 2, 6, 16, 30 ; April 3, 13. 
Return.— Led^ve. Port Said, Nov. 5, 14, 28 ; Dec. 3, 12, 26, 31 ; Jan. 9, 23, 28 ; 

Feb. 6, 20, 25 ; March 5, 9, 24 ; April 2, 16, 21, 30. 
Leaves Naples, Nov. 9, 18 ; Dec. 2, 7, 16, 30 ; Jan. 4, 13, 27 ; Feb. I, 10, 24, 29 ;, 

March 9, 23, 28 ; April 6, 20, 25 ; May 4. 
Arrive Southampton, Nov. 18, 27 ; Dec. 11, 16. 25 ; Jan. 8, 13, 22 ; Feb. 5, 10 

19 ; March 4, 9, 18 ; April 1, 6, 15, 29 ; May 4, 13. 



Fares : Port Said and Southampton or London 
„ „ Naples 

Special 

Leave New York, Jan. 18, Feb. 29. 
Leave Naples, Jan. 29, March 11. 
Arrive Alexandria, Jan. 31, March 13. 

Leave Alexandria, Feb. 1, March 14. 
Arrive Naples, Feb. 3, March 16. 
Calling at Genoa. 
201 



1st class. 


2nd class- 


£ 
. 19 
. 11 


. . 13 

8 



APPENDIX IV 



AUSTRIAN LLOYD S. N. COMPANY 

Weekly Accelerated Service 
Trieste — Brindisi — Alexandria 
From Trieste on Thursdays at 11 a.m. From Brindisi on Fridays. Arrive 



1st class. 


2nd class 


£ s. d. 


£ s. d 


13 6 7 . 


. 9 10 


11 4 10 . 


. 7 15 3 



Alexandria on Mondays. 

Alexandria — Brindisi — Trieste 

From Alexandria on Saturdays, at 4 p.m. Arrive Brindisi on Tuesdays, at 
o A.M. Arrive Trieste on Wednesdays, at 11 a.m. 



Fares : Trieste and Alexandria 
Brindisi and Alexandria 



MESSAGERIES MARITIMES 
Weekly Service 
Marseilles — Alexandria 
Leaving Marseilles on Thursdays. Arriving Alexandria on Tuesdays. 

A lexandria — Marseilles 
Leaving Alexandria on Fridavs. Arriving Marseilles on Wednesdays. 

Fares : 1st class, £12 9s. Id. ; 2nd class, £9 10s. 2d. 
Sailings between Marseilles and Port Said and vice versa, about six times per 
month. 

NAVIGAZIONE ITALL^NA 

Alexandria — Messina — Naples — Leghorn — Genoa 

Leaving Alexandria every Thursday. 
Arriving at Messina on Sundays. 
,, ,, Naples on Mondays,. 

,, ,, Leghorn on Tuesdays. 

,, ,, Genoa on Wednesdays. 

Returning from Genoa on Saturdays. 
,, ,, Leghorn on Mondays. 

,, ,, Naples on Wednesdays. 

,, ,, Messina on Thursdays. 

Arriving at Alexandria on Sundays. 







1st class. 


2nd class 






£ s. d. 


i s. d. 


Fares : 


From Alexandria to Messina 


8 16 . 


6 




,, ., ,, Naples 


. 9 4 0. 


6 4 10 




,, ,, ,, Leghorn 


. 10 IR 10 . 


. 7 7 3 




„ ,. ,, Genoa 


. 11 7 6 . 


7 14 10 



P. HENDERSON & GO'S LINE OF STEAMERS 
Liverpool — London — Port Said 

Steamer leaves Liverpool every other Thursday, commencing Novemter 11, 
1907. Arriving at Port Said thirteen days later. 

Fares : From Port Said to London or Liverpool and vice versa, £12. 
For return sailings applv to the Companv's Agent at Port Said. 

202' 



APPENDIX IV 



PAPAYANI LINE (ELLERMAN LINES) 

Sailing between Liverpool and Port Said and vice versa about every ten days. 
Fares : Liverpool and Port Said, 1st class, £14. 

KHEDIVIAL MAIL LINE 

Alexandria — PircBUS — Constantinople 

Leaving Alexandria on Wednesdays. Arriving at Piraeus on Fridays. Arriving 
Constantinople on Sundays. 

Return. — Leave Constantinople on Tuesdays, and Piraeus on Thursdays. 
Arriving at Alexandria on Saturdays. 

1st class. 2nd class. 

£ s. d. £ s. d. 

Fares : Alexandria and Piraeus . . . 5 2 7 . . 3 6 9 

,, ,, Constantinople . 8 4 1 . . 5 2 7 

RUSSIAN LINE 

Alexandria — Pirceus — Consiinti'/wple 

Leaving Alexandria on Tuesdays. Arriving Piraeus on Thursdays, and 
Constantinople on Fridays. 

Return. — Leaving Constantinople on Tuesdays, and Piraeus on Wednesdays. 
Arri\ing Alexandria on Fridays. 

1st class. 2nd class. 

£ s. d. £ s. d. 

Fares: Alexandria and Piraeus . . . .5 4 .. 3 12 

,, ,, Constantinople . 8 . . 5 12 

NILE STEAMER SERVICF 
Cairo to Luxor, the First Cataract and Back 

Cook's steamers will leave Cairo for a twentv days' tour on Nov. 12, 26 ; Dec. 3. 
10, 17, 24, 31, 1907 ; Jan. 4, 7, 11, 14, 21, 28 ; Feb. 4, 11, 18, 25 ; March 3, 10, 
1908. And leave Assiout for a fourteen davs' tour on Jan. 8, 15, 22, 25, 29 ; 
Feb. 5, 8, 12, 19, 22, 26, and March 4, 1908. 

HAMBURG AND ANGLO-AMERICAN NILE COMPANY 

Tourist steamers leave Cairo at 10 a.m. every Friday, commencing Nov. 29, 
1907 ; arrive at Assiout at 4 p.m. the following Monday ; leave Assiout at noon 
on Tuesday ; arrive at Luxor at 7 p.m. on Thursday : leave Luxor at 5 a.m. on 
Monday ; arrive at Assouan at noon on Tuesday. 

Return. — Leave Assouan every Thursday at noon, commencing Dec. 12, 1907 ; 
arrive at Luxor at noon on Friday ; leave Luxor at 5 a.m. on Saturday ; arrive 
at Assiout at 11 a.m. on Monday ; leave Assiout at noon on Monday ; prrive at 
Cairo at noon on Wednesday, except in the case of the first trip, which finishes 
the return journey at Luxor. Passengers will return to Cairo by rail. 

Bi-weekly Express Steamers, between Luxor and Assouan, leave Luxor on 
Sundays and Wednesdays, and Assouan on Tuesdays and Fridays. 

EXPRESS NILE STEAMERS COMPANY 

Steamers leave Cairo every Saturday, commencing Dec. 14, 1907 ; arrive at 
Assiout on Tuesdays ; leave Assiout on Wednesdays ; arrive at Luxor on Fridays. 

Return. — Leave Luxor every Sunday, commencing Dec. 22, 1907 ; arrive at 
Assiout on Tuesdays ; leave Assiout Wednesdays ; arrive at Cairo on Fridays. 

Fares from /"20. 



203 



INDEX 



Note. — References in black figures are to time-tables. 



Abbas Theatre, Cairo, 29 

Abou Hamed (Sudan), 116, 191, 192 

Abou Hammad, 15, 175 

Abou Kerkas, 74, 1 77. 1 83 

Aboukir, 134, 188 

Abchaway, 62, 66, 1 82, 1 83 

Abydos, 79 

Alexandria, 15, 127, 173, 174 

Catacombs, 130 

Hotels, 16, 128, 159 

Pompey's Pillar, 130 

Suburbs, 127 
Angleterre, Hotel d', Cairo, 24, 156 
Antiquities, 34 

Museum of, 34 

Regulations about, 171 

S.ile of, 35 

Tickets to see, 171 
Apis Bulls, 57 

Tombs, 57 
Aquarium, 28 
Arab Museum, 40 
Arabic Vocabulary, 145 
Armant, 98, 1 82, 1 83 
.Arsinoe, 64 
Assiout, 76, 177, 180 
Assouan, 106, 182,183 

Dam, 106 

Hotels, 104, 162 
Atbara, 115, 116, 192-194 
Ayat, 73, 176, 181 
Azhar, Mosque of E1-, 33 

Baggage arrangements, Egyptian 
State Railways, 197 
Sudan State Railways, 114 
Rates, Egyptian State Railways, 
" • 197 
Bahr-el-Vu5suf, 64 
Bahrieh, Oasis of, 143 
Bains, Hotel des, Helouan, 46, 159 
Bakshish, 71, 112 
Baliana, 79, 178, 179 
Barrage, the, 58, 186 
Basin Irrigation, 78 
Bathing, Alexandria, 129 
Baths, Helouan, 44 
Bedreshein, 55, 176 
Beni Hassan, 74 
Bcni Souef, 73, 1 76, 1 81 



Biban-el-Muluk, 91 
Bilbeis, 120, 184,185 
Birket-el-Keroun, 64 
Bishereen Camp, 106 
Book of the Dead, 92 
Boulac-Dacrour, 73, 176, 181 
Brindisi Mail Express, 11, 200 
Bristol Hotel, Cairo, 157 

Cab fares, 197 

Cairo, Arab Museum, 40 

Bazaars, 30 

Churches, 28, 164 

Citadel, 25, 32 

Clubs, 27, 164 

Hotels, 22, 155 

Mosques, 31 

Museum of Antiquities, 34 

Old Cairo, 41 

Old Coptic Churches, 41 

Zoological Gardens, 28 
Caliphs, Tombs of, 26 
Canopus. 134 
Carlton Hotel, Ramleh. 129, 161 

House Pension, Cairo, 22, 158 
Catacombs, the. 130 
Cataract, the First, see Assouan, 106 
Cataract Hotel, Assouan, 106, 162 
Cheops, 52 
Churches, Alexandria, 164 

Assouan, 106 

Cairo, 28, 164 

Helouan, 46 

Luxor, 84 

Old Copcic, 41 
Citadel, the, 25, 32 
Clothes, 11 
Clubs, Alexandria, 128, 164 

Cairo, 27, 164 
Colossi of Memnon. 97 

of Rameses, 56 
Continental Hotel, Cairo, 24, 155 
Coptic Churches, 41 
Customs, Port Said, 14 

Regulations, 169 '■ 

Dahabeahs, 69 
Dair-Moe5, 75, 177, 180 
Dakhel, 143 
Dam, the As-oaan, lOS 



205 



INDEX 



Damanhour, 16, 1 73, 1 74, 1 84, 1 85 
Damietta, 122, 184, 185 
Daraw. 103, 182, 183 
Deir-el-Bahari, 93 
Deir Suriani, 144 
Do Lessep5, 14 
Delta, the, 119 
Dendera, 80 

Distribution of time at Luxor, 97 
Distanct^s from Cairo, hy river, 172 
Khartoum, 116 

Eden Palace Hotel, Cairo, 157 
Edfou, Temple of, &c , 100, 182, 183 
Elephantine, Island of, 110 
El-Kab, 100 

Esneh, Barrage, &c., 99, 182, 183 
Temple of, 99 

ParaI^ra, Oasis ol, 143 
Farshout, 143, 178,179 
Favoum, 62. 182, 183 

■ Medmel-el-. 62, 182, 183 
Ferries, Nile, 199 

Garages, Motor, 170 
Ghezireh, Island of, 27 

Palace Hotel, 24, 156 

Sporting Club, 27, 164 
Gizeh, Pyramids and Sphinx of, 50 

Zoological Gardens of, 28 
Golf, 27, 45 

Grand Hotel, Alexandria, 128, 160 
Assouan, 106, 163 
Helouan, 46, 158 

Hassanfin, Mosque of E1-, 34 
Hatasu, Temple of Queen, 91- 
Hawara, Pyramid of, 65 
Hayat, Hotel E1-, Helouan, 46, 159 
Heliopolis, 49 

Oasis City, 50 
Helouan, 44 

Hotels, 45, 158 

Time-tables. 189, 190 
Hibis. Temple of, 144 
Hotels, Alexandria. 16, 159 

Assiout, 78, 162 

Assouan, 106, 163 

Cairo, 22, 155 

Fayoum, 62, 162 

Helouan, 45, 158 

Ismailia, 162 

Khartoum, 116 

Luxor, 83, 162 

Port Said, 14, 161 

Suez, 140, 162 

Zeitoun, 48, 159 

Ibm Touloun, Mosque of, 33 
Imperial Hotel, Cairo, 158 
Ismailia, 15, 137, 174 



Joseph's Well, 33 

Jupiter Ammon, Oasis of, 143 

Kantarah, 14, 175 

Karnack, 87 
Karoun. Lake, 66 
Kasr-el-Nil Bridge, 27 
Keneh, 80, 178, 179 
Kharga, 143, 178, 179 
Khartoum, 112, 191-194 
Khcdivial Chib, Alexandria, 127, 164 
Cairo, 27, 164 

Hotel, Alexandria, 128, 160 
Cairo, 160 

Library, 39 

Mail Steamers, 203 

Opera House, 29 
Khephren, 53 

King's Chamber, Great Pyramid, 54 
Kings, the Tombs of. 91 
Kom Ombo, 102, 1 82, 1 83 

Temple of, 102 
Kurkur, Oasis of, 144 
Kurna, Temple of, 91 
Kuraet Murrai, Tombs of, 96 

Labyrinth, the, 65 
Lahoun, 65 

Light Railways, The Delta, 46, 120. 
189, 190 
Fayoum, 62, 188 
Lower Egypt, 120 
Lower Egypt, 119 
Luggage, arrangements for, 197 
Luxor, Hotels, 83, 162 

Temples and Tombs, 86 
Time-tables, 1 76-1 83 

Mansourah, 124, 184,'185 
Marg, 48, 1 87 
Marietta, 57 
Mariout, 131 

Railway, 131 
Mastabas of Ptahotep and Ti, 58 
Matarieh (near Cairo), 48, 187 ^ 

(Lake Menzaleh), 125 
Medinet-el-Fayoum, 62, 182, 183 
Medinet Habu, 96 
Mehallet Ketir, 120 
Memnon, Colossi of, 97 
Memphis, 56 

Mena House Hotel, 25, 50,'_156 
Menes, 79 

Menzaleh, Lake, 125 
Mereruka, Tomb of, 58 
Metropole, Hotel, Cairo, 158 
Minieh, 74, 177, 180 
Moeris, Lake, 64 ] 

Mohammed Ali Mosque, 33 



206 



INDEX 



Mosques, El-Azhar, 38 

El-Ghouri, 34 

El-Hakim, 34 

El-Hassanein, 34 

Ibn Touloun. 33 

Kait Bey, 33 

Mohammed Ali, 33 

El-Moulaiyad, 34 

Muristan, 34 

Rifaiya, 32 

Sultan Hussan, 32 
Motor-boats, 60 
Motor-cars, 12, 170 
Motorists, information for, 12, 170 
Mousky, 30 
Muristan Mosque, 34 
Museum, the Arab, Cairo, 40 

of Egyptian Antiquities, 

Cairo, 34 
of Graeco-Roman Antiqui- 
ties, Alexandria, 131 
Music, 29 

Nadara, 144 

Nag-Hamadi, 80, 1 78, 1 79 
National Hotel, Cairo, 157 
Natron Valley, 144 
New Hotel, Assiout, 162 
Nile Steamers, 203 

Oases, the, 142 

Oasis City, the Heliopolis, 50 

Old Cairo, 26 

Old Coptic Churches, 41 

Opera House, Cairo, 29 

Ostrich Farm, 49 

OutUne Tours, 18 

Pensions, Cairo, 22, 158 
Pharos, the, 130 
Philae, 110 

Pompev's Pillar, 130 
Port Said, 13, 175 
Port Sudan, 116, 191 194 
Pyramids of Gizeh, 50 

Hawara, 65 

Lisht, 73 

Meidoun, 73 

Sakkara, 55 

Quarries, ancient, of Assouan, 108 
Queens, Tombs of the, 96 

Railway arrangements, 196, 197 

Fares, 195 

Time-tables, 173-194 
Ramesseum, 94 
Ramleh, 127 
Red Sea route to Sudan, 116, 191, 194 



Rifaiya Mosque, 32 

Rock Tombs of Assouan, 111 

Beni Hassan, 74 

Birbeh, 79 
Rosetta, 135, 188 
" Rosetta Stone," the, 135 
Rossmore House Pension, Cairo, 158. 
Routes, 18 

Sakkara, 55 

Salhieh, 121, 184, 185 

San Stefano, Grand Casino, 128, 160' 

Savoy Hotel, Alexandria, 128. 159 
Assouan, 106, 163 
Cairo, 22, 155 
Port Said, 14, 161 

Selima, Oasis of, 144 

Semiramis, Hotel, Cairo, 24, 157 

Sheik Abd-el-Kiu:na, Tombs of, 94 

Shellal, 108, 182, 183 

Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo, 22, 155 

Shishak, 89 

Sidi-Gaber, 128, 173, 174 

Sima, Pension, Cairo, 158 

Sinai, Peninsula of, 141 

Siwa, Oasis of, 143 

Sleeoing-cars, 70, 197 

Sohag, 78, 177, 179 

Sphinx, the, 50 

Temple of, 52 

Sporting Club, the, Cairo, 27, 164 
Alexandria, 128 

Steamers, Nile, 203 

to and from Europe, 200 

Step Pyramid, the, 57 

St. Catherine, Monastery of, 141 

St. Menas, the City of, 131 

St. Simeon, the Convent of, 111 

Suakin, 116, 192, 193 

Sudan, the, 112 

Nile route to, 113, 191 194 
Red Sea route to, 116, 191-194 

Suez, 139, 174 

Suez Canal, 140 

Sultan Hussan, Mosque of 32 

Syene, ancient Quarries of, 108 

Tablet of Abvdos, 79 
Tantah, 124, 173. 174, 184, 185 

Tel-el- Amarnn, 75 
Tel-el- Kebir, 15, 137, 175 
Temples, Abydos, 79 

Dendera, 80 

Edfou, 100 

Esneh, 99 

Karnak, 87 

Kom Ombo, 102 

Kurna, 91 

Luxor, 86 



207 



INDEX 



Temples, Medinet Habou, 96 
Philae, 110 
Queen Hatasu, 94 
Ramesseum, 94 
Tewfik Palace Hotel, Htlouan, 46, 159 
Theatres, Cairo, 29 

Alexandria, 128 
Thebes, 84 
Ti, Mastaba of, 58 
Time, dist- ibution of, at Luxor, 97 
"Time-tables, Egyptian State Rail- 
wavs, 1 73-1 88 
Delta Light Railway, 189, 190 
Fayoum Light Railway, 188 
Sudan Government, 191-194 
Titi, Tomb of Queen, 96 
Tombs of Mereruka, 58 
Queen Titi, 96 
Phtahotep, 58 
Ti, 58 
the Kings, 91 



Tombs of the Queens, 96 

Rock, see Rock Tombs 
Tours, outline, 18 
Trains de luxe, 70 
Turf Club, Cairo, 164 

Upper Egypt, 69 

Virgins' Tree, the, 48 
Vocabulary, Arabic, 145 

Wadi-Halfa, 113, 191-194 

Wadv Natroun, 144 

Wasta, 62, 176.18: 

Winter Palace Hotel, Luxor, 83, 162 

Zagazig, 15, 175, 184, 185 

Zeitoun, 48. 187 
Zoological Gardens, 28 
Zoser, 57 



'PRINTED BY BALLANIVNE AND CO. LIMITED 
TA\IST0CK street, LONDON 






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